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  #16  
Old 11-19-2012, 04:51 PM
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Re: Were Should I Spend my EG33 Dollars to Kick Ass.

I was under the impression that Steve J had trouble with his Motec reading the signal as well. Its all good at lower revs it breaks up at high revs.
Not sure what the Wolf has.
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1995 - SVX 700,000 K Mine, DMS Struts to lift car 2in. Tyres Wrangler Silent Armor 235/70R16, PBR Radiator. 6 speed with DCCD and R180 rer diff, Heavy duty top strut mounts front and rear. Speedo correction box fitted. New stero (gave up on the old one). Back seat removed and 2 spare tyres fitted for desert driving. ECUTune SC sitting in the box for the next SVX.
1992 - SVX 255 K Wife (Want to stay Married so not allowed to fit SC)
1992 - SVX Pearl with black roof race car roll cauge etc ready to race. Ex Tasman Targa car.
1995 - SVX Green low k mint condiation.
1995 - SVX Rally car, ex Matts car. Now to be used on track.
1992 - SVX red & Black being converted to Mid Engine.
1995 - SVX Red 143,000 bit rough.
Owned 5 others Subaru back to a 1974 1400 GSR.
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  #17  
Old 11-19-2012, 05:20 PM
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Re: Were Should I Spend my EG33 Dollars to Kick Ass.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dessertrunner View Post
I was under the impression that Steve J had trouble with his Motec reading the signal as well. Its all good at lower revs it breaks up at high revs.
Not sure what the Wolf has.
Do you think it's an issue with the wolf?
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  #18  
Old 11-19-2012, 05:23 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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Re: Were Should I Spend my EG33 Dollars to Kick Ass.

Most of the early units were set up for Ign points, so the input to the controller is a low impedance input, that needs a high current flow, to trigger the controller. The later ones have both low and high impedance inputs, that can use all types of trigger units.
Posted this on another thread.

The out put of the inductive sensors is really a voltage signal, not like a Hall effect out-put that can switch a transistor. They don't have the current to drive a transistor base circuit, they have to drive a high impedance input. like a 47K resistor, so that only the voltage signal gets through. This decouples the current from the input circuit, so it does not short the signal voltage to ground.

Harvey.
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  #19  
Old 11-19-2012, 06:23 PM
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Re: Were Should I Spend my EG33 Dollars to Kick Ass.

Quote:
Originally Posted by subarvair View Post
I am using an eg33 in a LM Corvair project and would really enjoy being a part of this discussion, although I haven't been on this forum much in the past. You guys have so much more experience than me with this engine.
Mods are: forged pist(11-1 cr), mild cams, equal length long tube headers, ported heads, and megasquirt Ms3/3x.
Finally got it running but still have a small synch problem with the crank signal.
Mike
I have seen your posts on the megasquirt forums, and I would love your input in this thread: http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=60860

As to the sync issues, did you try adding a resistor to the crank input to the MS?
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  #20  
Old 11-19-2012, 06:29 PM
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Re: Were Should I Spend my EG33 Dollars to Kick Ass.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bazza View Post
It's around 60 degrees out. You can calibrate it with a timing light.

My ecu (LinkPlus G3) has in built functions to clean up the signal. Does the Wolf not have this? Also the link supplies it's own ground reference to cam and crank sensors - does the Wolf do this? Could be why you need to run a resistor.
The megasquirt has both grounded at the ECU, and I think may likely require a resistor, for the reasons Harvey stated. I will have to play with it to verify. Mine does sync up at cranking speeds.

Out of curiousity, how much do the wolf and link g3 ecus cost, roughly.
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'94 Laguna Blue LSi ~159k.......JDM ultra short-geared 3.900 STi Version 7 6-speed w/ Cobb shortshifter, ECUtune 244,8.1mm/256,9.1mm i/e cams, group N motor mounts, '97 grille, JDM clear corners, Momo JDM Legacy GT steering wheel, apkarian's LED tails, silver STi BBS wheels, PWR radiator, redstuff pads f/r, drilled/slotted rotors, bontragerworks rsb #18, Koni/GC 450f/375r coilovers, Megan Racing adjustable lateral links, KMac c/c plates, Stebro exhaust, ECUtune 1v5, Optima battery in the trunk where it belongs. Turbo project

'97 Ebony LSi ~137k #036.......Power mode mod, JDM clear corners, BBS wheels. AUX/pocket mod

Now a mod "over there" ............Photo album
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  #21  
Old 11-19-2012, 06:43 PM
bazza bazza is offline
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Re: Were Should I Spend my EG33 Dollars to Kick Ass.

It's interesting as most of my mates here in Aus with the EG33 tend to run decent ECU's, one runs Motec M4, I run LinkPlus G3, another runs a LinkPlus G4.

This is picture of my crank sensor setup, never had an issue, just works:
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  #22  
Old 11-19-2012, 06:46 PM
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Re: Were Should I Spend my EG33 Dollars to Kick Ass.

Quote:
Originally Posted by icingdeath88 View Post
Out of curiousity, how much do the wolf and link g3 ecus cost, roughly.
Mines an old one, prolly could get it for $1000-1250 thesedays. Brand new G4 or the Vipec is prolly around 2K.

Another option is the Microtech LT16S, especially if you're turbo / track/ don't need street manners (closed loop idle or closed loop fuel) or the IRIS valve. Easiest ECU on the planet to tune and can tune while on the track racing.
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  #23  
Old 11-19-2012, 07:07 PM
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Re: Were Should I Spend my EG33 Dollars to Kick Ass.

As I understand it the signal breaks up at high revs only, given that Motec had the problem I am surprised you haven't found some issues Bazza.
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1995 - SVX 700,000 K Mine, DMS Struts to lift car 2in. Tyres Wrangler Silent Armor 235/70R16, PBR Radiator. 6 speed with DCCD and R180 rer diff, Heavy duty top strut mounts front and rear. Speedo correction box fitted. New stero (gave up on the old one). Back seat removed and 2 spare tyres fitted for desert driving. ECUTune SC sitting in the box for the next SVX.
1992 - SVX 255 K Wife (Want to stay Married so not allowed to fit SC)
1992 - SVX Pearl with black roof race car roll cauge etc ready to race. Ex Tasman Targa car.
1995 - SVX Green low k mint condiation.
1995 - SVX Rally car, ex Matts car. Now to be used on track.
1992 - SVX red & Black being converted to Mid Engine.
1995 - SVX Red 143,000 bit rough.
Owned 5 others Subaru back to a 1974 1400 GSR.
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  #24  
Old 11-19-2012, 08:24 PM
bazza bazza is offline
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Re: Were Should I Spend my EG33 Dollars to Kick Ass.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dessertrunner View Post
As I understand it the signal breaks up at high revs only, given that Motec had the problem I am surprised you haven't found some issues Bazza.
Why do you say that?
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  #25  
Old 11-19-2012, 08:31 PM
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Dessertrunner Dessertrunner is offline
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Re: Were Should I Spend my EG33 Dollars to Kick Ass.

My guess is I have it wrong but I was on the understanding that the Motec was suppose to be one of the best ECU.
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1995 - SVX 700,000 K Mine, DMS Struts to lift car 2in. Tyres Wrangler Silent Armor 235/70R16, PBR Radiator. 6 speed with DCCD and R180 rer diff, Heavy duty top strut mounts front and rear. Speedo correction box fitted. New stero (gave up on the old one). Back seat removed and 2 spare tyres fitted for desert driving. ECUTune SC sitting in the box for the next SVX.
1992 - SVX 255 K Wife (Want to stay Married so not allowed to fit SC)
1992 - SVX Pearl with black roof race car roll cauge etc ready to race. Ex Tasman Targa car.
1995 - SVX Green low k mint condiation.
1995 - SVX Rally car, ex Matts car. Now to be used on track.
1992 - SVX red & Black being converted to Mid Engine.
1995 - SVX Red 143,000 bit rough.
Owned 5 others Subaru back to a 1974 1400 GSR.
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  #26  
Old 11-19-2012, 08:51 PM
bazza bazza is offline
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Re: Were Should I Spend my EG33 Dollars to Kick Ass.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dessertrunner View Post
My guess is I have it wrong but I was on the understanding that the Motec was suppose to be one of the best ECU.
They are quite a good units, overpriced IMO but it's like anything else - if you don't set it up properly or don't know exactly what you're doing then it will have issues.
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  #27  
Old 11-19-2012, 10:21 PM
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Re: Were Should I Spend my EG33 Dollars to Kick Ass.

Well peoples I order the part for the 5 speed box so we can rear drive it to run the dyno. I have a hell of a time getting the power throught the engine to the dyno. I tried a drive shaft like most of the dyno guys say you can do but I had the distink impressiion it was giving the crank a bad time. We tried a fly wheel with shaft mounted to it and it was the same. Talking to Bazza he mentioned the rear drive lock for the 5 speeds so thats what we got. After that its a bit of rewelding and Programing a PLC to run the loading. Long story but I inherited a $6,000 plc that I have no use for at work so we may plug that sucker in. When can then build on the dyno about 60 different logging test point.

Also inherited a software program the we could use that will talk to the PLC. Its called Citec, worth about (10k) so if we get real keen we can set that up as well.

So lets see how we go. The only problem I have is hours in the day.

Tony
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1995 - SVX 700,000 K Mine, DMS Struts to lift car 2in. Tyres Wrangler Silent Armor 235/70R16, PBR Radiator. 6 speed with DCCD and R180 rer diff, Heavy duty top strut mounts front and rear. Speedo correction box fitted. New stero (gave up on the old one). Back seat removed and 2 spare tyres fitted for desert driving. ECUTune SC sitting in the box for the next SVX.
1992 - SVX 255 K Wife (Want to stay Married so not allowed to fit SC)
1992 - SVX Pearl with black roof race car roll cauge etc ready to race. Ex Tasman Targa car.
1995 - SVX Green low k mint condiation.
1995 - SVX Rally car, ex Matts car. Now to be used on track.
1992 - SVX red & Black being converted to Mid Engine.
1995 - SVX Red 143,000 bit rough.
Owned 5 others Subaru back to a 1974 1400 GSR.

Last edited by Dessertrunner; 11-19-2012 at 10:24 PM.
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  #28  
Old 11-19-2012, 11:24 PM
subarvair subarvair is offline
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Re: Were Should I Spend my EG33 Dollars to Kick Ass.

Quote:
Originally Posted by icingdeath88 View Post
I have seen your posts on the megasquirt forums, and I would love your input in this thread: http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=60860

As to the sync issues, did you try adding a resistor to the crank input to the MS?
Having seen some of my MS posts, you know how many stupid newbie questions I have asked and what a steep learning curve the MS has been for me. A signal filtering function within the tuning software may solve the problem. I'll know in a month when I get back to the project.
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  #29  
Old 11-19-2012, 11:26 PM
bazza bazza is offline
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Re: Were Should I Spend my EG33 Dollars to Kick Ass.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dessertrunner View Post
Well peoples I order the part for the 5 speed box so we can rear drive it to run the dyno. I have a hell of a time getting the power throught the engine to the dyno. I tried a drive shaft like most of the dyno guys say you can do but I had the distink impressiion it was giving the crank a bad time. We tried a fly wheel with shaft mounted to it and it was the same. Talking to Bazza he mentioned the rear drive lock for the 5 speeds so thats what we got. After that its a bit of rewelding and Programing a PLC to run the loading. Long story but I inherited a $6,000 plc that I have no use for at work so we may plug that sucker in. When can then build on the dyno about 60 different logging test point.

Also inherited a software program the we could use that will talk to the PLC. Its called Citec, worth about (10k) so if we get real keen we can set that up as well.

So lets see how we go. The only problem I have is hours in the day.

Tony
Awesome work mate. Can't wait to do some real life testing and tuning on these things.
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  #30  
Old 11-19-2012, 11:35 PM
subarvair subarvair is offline
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Re: Were Should I Spend my EG33 Dollars to Kick Ass.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SVXRide View Post
Mike,

Welcome to the conversation!! Can you provide additional information on your build? Source for pistons and cams? Size/length of headers? How you've got the megasquirt set up? Extent to which you ported the heads?

Thanks.

Bill
Bill,
I have been away from the project for 6 months so don't have all the specs in my head. The pistons are CP and slightly over but not much. Cams were done by Delta(tacoma,wa) and were basically putting the exhaust profile(244x8.1) on the intake and grinding the exhaust to 255 x 8.5. The headers are either 2.25 or 2.5 into 3" and about 25" tubes. I hope that's not too big. The final flow report on the heads said that the straight exh was 190 cfm, the dogleg was 185 and the intake was 260 cfm at the new lifts. In my Corvair application, I only used the engine harnesses and the 4 plugs at the engine. When I left the project in May, it was running on fully sequential spark and fuel but with the crank signal problem at 1200 to 2000 rpm. I have since read where there is a signal filtering function within the tuning software that may solve the problem. If not, I'll be using some type of resister combination.

Mike
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