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  #1  
Old 10-02-2010, 01:42 PM
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WRX Starter Issue

Starter on my 5MT SVX went bad, spinning, but not engaging ring gear. Got under it and found the bolt holding the upper right side ear to the block was completely loose, and the lower left side ear had cracked, so starter was crooked and pinion wasn't engaging ring gear. Bought a 2004 WRX Beck Arnley starter and find that the hole in the lower left side ear of the starter is too small for the stud coming out of the block. I suppose I could bore out the hole a little bit, but am worried about structural integrity of the ear, since it obviously takes a lot of force when the starter engages. Anyone else have this problem?

So far, looks like the right hand bolt just loosened up. Fitting it into the hole finds threads, so hopefully they aren't stripped. Probably just wasn't torqued right initially. But, won't know until I reinstall starter for real and tighten bolt.

Any experienced thoughts about reaming out the hole in the attachment ear?
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95 LS-i Red, 31,xxx; bone stock for now; Daily Driver

94 LS-i Emerald Pearl, 106,xxx,; 246 whp; Tomyx snorkus and HKS Cold air intake; PWR aluminum radiator, silicone hoses; Inline thermostat; enhanced coolant routing; external power steering and oil coolers; Phenolic intake manifold spacers; 2004 WRX 5 speed transmission; ACT Clutch Kit, Heavy Duty Pressure Plate, Lightweight flywheel, performance disc; Group N motor mounts; ‘07 WRX 4-pot front calipers, cryo-treated slotted Tribeca rotors; Hawk HPS ferro-carbon pads; Frozenrotor rear slotted rotors; SS brake lines, Axxis Ultimate pads; Rota Torque 17x8 wheels; 245/40-17 Bridgestone RE01-R's; Koni inserts with Ground Control coilovers, Eibach springs; K-Mac camber/caster adjustable strut mounts; Urethane swaybar bushings; Bontrager rear sway bar; Urethane differential bushing; Custom Whiteline adjustable rear lateral links; Outlaw Engineering forged underdrive pulley; custom grind Web intake and exhaust cams (11 mm lift, 250° duration); solid lifters; CP custom aluminum forged 11 to 1 pistons, Brian Crower coated SS intake & exhaust valves; Brian Crower upgraded springs w/ titanium retainers; NGK sparkplugs; RallyBob (Bob Legere) ported and polished cylinder heads; Eagle H-beam rods; ACL Bearings; Cometic Head gaskets; ARP head studs & fasteners; Hydra Nemesis EMS; Wideband O2 sensor; 740cc Injectors; Walbro 255lph fuel pump; Upgraded WRX starter; Equal length SS headers (3 into 1); dual Magnaflow cat converters; 2 into 1 into 2 SS exhaust with Bullet muffler; OT Fiberglass hood; Oil pressure gauge; Programmable shift light,

2017 Subaru Forester XT, metallic dark gray, 29,xxx

2005 Porsche 911 Turbo S Cabrio, 24,xxx

2006 Subaru Outback LL Bean, 166,xxx sold

92 LSL Dark Teal, Smallcar Shift Kit - sold
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  #2  
Old 10-02-2010, 03:48 PM
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Re: WRX Starter Issue

I have am involved with a Wrx so know what you are on about. The bolts do not take a lot of load as a flanged fitting is involved. But with the bolts loose they will have taken strain. Go ahead and ream out the hole a little, as there should be plenty of meat left outside it.
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  #3  
Old 10-03-2010, 06:46 PM
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Re: WRX Starter Issue

Bad news. The right lower bolt hole in the block has stripped threads. It feels OK when you hand tighten it, but when you wrench it, the threads give way. Advice?
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95 LS-i Red, 31,xxx; bone stock for now; Daily Driver

94 LS-i Emerald Pearl, 106,xxx,; 246 whp; Tomyx snorkus and HKS Cold air intake; PWR aluminum radiator, silicone hoses; Inline thermostat; enhanced coolant routing; external power steering and oil coolers; Phenolic intake manifold spacers; 2004 WRX 5 speed transmission; ACT Clutch Kit, Heavy Duty Pressure Plate, Lightweight flywheel, performance disc; Group N motor mounts; ‘07 WRX 4-pot front calipers, cryo-treated slotted Tribeca rotors; Hawk HPS ferro-carbon pads; Frozenrotor rear slotted rotors; SS brake lines, Axxis Ultimate pads; Rota Torque 17x8 wheels; 245/40-17 Bridgestone RE01-R's; Koni inserts with Ground Control coilovers, Eibach springs; K-Mac camber/caster adjustable strut mounts; Urethane swaybar bushings; Bontrager rear sway bar; Urethane differential bushing; Custom Whiteline adjustable rear lateral links; Outlaw Engineering forged underdrive pulley; custom grind Web intake and exhaust cams (11 mm lift, 250° duration); solid lifters; CP custom aluminum forged 11 to 1 pistons, Brian Crower coated SS intake & exhaust valves; Brian Crower upgraded springs w/ titanium retainers; NGK sparkplugs; RallyBob (Bob Legere) ported and polished cylinder heads; Eagle H-beam rods; ACL Bearings; Cometic Head gaskets; ARP head studs & fasteners; Hydra Nemesis EMS; Wideband O2 sensor; 740cc Injectors; Walbro 255lph fuel pump; Upgraded WRX starter; Equal length SS headers (3 into 1); dual Magnaflow cat converters; 2 into 1 into 2 SS exhaust with Bullet muffler; OT Fiberglass hood; Oil pressure gauge; Programmable shift light,

2017 Subaru Forester XT, metallic dark gray, 29,xxx

2005 Porsche 911 Turbo S Cabrio, 24,xxx

2006 Subaru Outback LL Bean, 166,xxx sold

92 LSL Dark Teal, Smallcar Shift Kit - sold
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  #4  
Old 10-03-2010, 06:49 PM
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Re: WRX Starter Issue

Do you have a picture of the starter? I would like to see how much meat there is before giving an opinion. With enough edge margin (distance from center of hole to edge of material) it would be safe to just ream the hole out, tap the structure for an oversize fastener, and move on. But pics of the starter are necessary for me to actually say thats the best course of action...
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'92 Ls-L Dark Teal
11:1 CR ECUTUNE pistons
ECUTUNE .256 duration intake/exhaust cams
ECUTUNE STAGE 2AV1 ECU
Z32 MAF/SR20DET injectors
Balanced & Blueprinted
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  #5  
Old 10-03-2010, 07:55 PM
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Re: WRX Starter Issue

Quote:
Originally Posted by shotgunslade View Post
Bad news. The right lower bolt hole in the block has stripped threads. It feels OK when you hand tighten it, but when you wrench it, the threads give way. Advice?
Helicoil or timecert it. Not an issue one bit with that. Can't remember if that's a blind hole or not, but if it is just drill to appropriate size and tap until it bottoms. You only need to have enough thread for the helicoil to set it ~1/2 coil below flush.

Unfortunately it may require transmission removal to complete but it'll hold just fine once done.

One of my starter threads is helicoiled.
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  #6  
Old 10-04-2010, 12:08 PM
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Re: WRX Starter Issue

The current bolt is a 10mm. It goes through a blind hole in the bell-housing and probably screws into the block (can't see). I looked at a 5/16" Heli-coil that requires a hole minimum of 0.38" and maximum of 0.40". 10mm is 0.3937", so it seems like a 5/16" hel-coil would go in within reaming the hole. Is my logic good here, or do I have to clear out the previous threads before putting in the heli-coil? If I do have to ream out the hole a little bit, a 3/8" heli-coil requires a minimum hole of 0.448" The reason I'm looking at Imperial units here is because the 10mm requires a minimum opening of 0.4705", larger than the 3/8".

I have to say that I've only seen the heli-coil process once when YT did a couple of my oil pan bolts, so I don't remember it that well. As I remember, he reamed out the hole, inserted the heli-coil with a special tool with a slot for the end leg of the coil, took the tool out, and then put in the bolt. He did this in tight quarters with a manual reamer and insertion tool. The difficulty I see here is the fact that the actual threads are about 3" inside the bell housing opening. I don't know if I can get a reaming tool and an insertion tool with enough extension to reach the block. I certainly can enlarge the hole in the bell housing to allow whatever size heli-coil to go through.

One of the studs for my starter has been threaded directly into the bell-housing. I'm assuming this is an ad-hoc fix that was made after that bolt also pulled out of the block. I would be uncomfortable having both studs threaded into the bell-housing, rather than the block, because of the stress that the starter would put on it.
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95 LS-i Red, 31,xxx; bone stock for now; Daily Driver

94 LS-i Emerald Pearl, 106,xxx,; 246 whp; Tomyx snorkus and HKS Cold air intake; PWR aluminum radiator, silicone hoses; Inline thermostat; enhanced coolant routing; external power steering and oil coolers; Phenolic intake manifold spacers; 2004 WRX 5 speed transmission; ACT Clutch Kit, Heavy Duty Pressure Plate, Lightweight flywheel, performance disc; Group N motor mounts; ‘07 WRX 4-pot front calipers, cryo-treated slotted Tribeca rotors; Hawk HPS ferro-carbon pads; Frozenrotor rear slotted rotors; SS brake lines, Axxis Ultimate pads; Rota Torque 17x8 wheels; 245/40-17 Bridgestone RE01-R's; Koni inserts with Ground Control coilovers, Eibach springs; K-Mac camber/caster adjustable strut mounts; Urethane swaybar bushings; Bontrager rear sway bar; Urethane differential bushing; Custom Whiteline adjustable rear lateral links; Outlaw Engineering forged underdrive pulley; custom grind Web intake and exhaust cams (11 mm lift, 250° duration); solid lifters; CP custom aluminum forged 11 to 1 pistons, Brian Crower coated SS intake & exhaust valves; Brian Crower upgraded springs w/ titanium retainers; NGK sparkplugs; RallyBob (Bob Legere) ported and polished cylinder heads; Eagle H-beam rods; ACL Bearings; Cometic Head gaskets; ARP head studs & fasteners; Hydra Nemesis EMS; Wideband O2 sensor; 740cc Injectors; Walbro 255lph fuel pump; Upgraded WRX starter; Equal length SS headers (3 into 1); dual Magnaflow cat converters; 2 into 1 into 2 SS exhaust with Bullet muffler; OT Fiberglass hood; Oil pressure gauge; Programmable shift light,

2017 Subaru Forester XT, metallic dark gray, 29,xxx

2005 Porsche 911 Turbo S Cabrio, 24,xxx

2006 Subaru Outback LL Bean, 166,xxx sold

92 LSL Dark Teal, Smallcar Shift Kit - sold

Last edited by shotgunslade; 10-04-2010 at 12:11 PM.
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  #7  
Old 10-04-2010, 04:44 PM
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Re: WRX Starter Issue

Quote:
Originally Posted by shotgunslade View Post
The current bolt is a 10mm. It goes through a blind hole in the bell-housing and probably screws into the block (can't see). I looked at a 5/16" Heli-coil that requires a hole minimum of 0.38" and maximum of 0.40". 10mm is 0.3937", so it seems like a 5/16" hel-coil would go in within reaming the hole. Is my logic good here, or do I have to clear out the previous threads before putting in the heli-coil? If I do have to ream out the hole a little bit, a 3/8" heli-coil requires a minimum hole of 0.448" The reason I'm looking at Imperial units here is because the 10mm requires a minimum opening of 0.4705", larger than the 3/8".

I have to say that I've only seen the heli-coil process once when YT did a couple of my oil pan bolts, so I don't remember it that well. As I remember, he reamed out the hole, inserted the heli-coil with a special tool with a slot for the end leg of the coil, took the tool out, and then put in the bolt. He did this in tight quarters with a manual reamer and insertion tool. The difficulty I see here is the fact that the actual threads are about 3" inside the bell housing opening. I don't know if I can get a reaming tool and an insertion tool with enough extension to reach the block. I certainly can enlarge the hole in the bell housing to allow whatever size heli-coil to go through.

One of the studs for my starter has been threaded directly into the bell-housing. I'm assuming this is an ad-hoc fix that was made after that bolt also pulled out of the block. I would be uncomfortable having both studs threaded into the bell-housing, rather than the block, because of the stress that the starter would put on it.
Dan. the lower bolt was never used on the SVX. The newer transmission bell housings still have the same 4 bolt pattern but with added bolt holes including the one for the starter and two on the other side for added rigidity. Since we cannot very well drill and tap the new holes in the engine w/o the bosses for them, we use a stud for the lower bolt. Since the stud was not on the transmission which was designed for a bolt , I had to add it when I did the 5mt swap.

Call me tonight, my recomendation for the easiest fix is going to be a through-bolt with a nut on the engine side. The hole goes straight throught the bell-housing and the block although the block is threaded all the way through.

Tom
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  #8  
Old 10-04-2010, 06:21 PM
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Re: WRX Starter Issue

Thanks, Tom. Now, that I actually took another look at the installation, I can see what Tom is getting at. The threaded hole in the block in which the threads are stripped, is actually on a plate projecting out of the block. The threaded hole actually goes all the way through this plate. So, I can get a slightly smaller bolt, long enough to go through the starter tab, through the bellhousing and the gap between bellhousing and block, through the plate and out far enough to take a nut. Problem solved without gymnastic heli-coiling.
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95 LS-i Red, 31,xxx; bone stock for now; Daily Driver

94 LS-i Emerald Pearl, 106,xxx,; 246 whp; Tomyx snorkus and HKS Cold air intake; PWR aluminum radiator, silicone hoses; Inline thermostat; enhanced coolant routing; external power steering and oil coolers; Phenolic intake manifold spacers; 2004 WRX 5 speed transmission; ACT Clutch Kit, Heavy Duty Pressure Plate, Lightweight flywheel, performance disc; Group N motor mounts; ‘07 WRX 4-pot front calipers, cryo-treated slotted Tribeca rotors; Hawk HPS ferro-carbon pads; Frozenrotor rear slotted rotors; SS brake lines, Axxis Ultimate pads; Rota Torque 17x8 wheels; 245/40-17 Bridgestone RE01-R's; Koni inserts with Ground Control coilovers, Eibach springs; K-Mac camber/caster adjustable strut mounts; Urethane swaybar bushings; Bontrager rear sway bar; Urethane differential bushing; Custom Whiteline adjustable rear lateral links; Outlaw Engineering forged underdrive pulley; custom grind Web intake and exhaust cams (11 mm lift, 250° duration); solid lifters; CP custom aluminum forged 11 to 1 pistons, Brian Crower coated SS intake & exhaust valves; Brian Crower upgraded springs w/ titanium retainers; NGK sparkplugs; RallyBob (Bob Legere) ported and polished cylinder heads; Eagle H-beam rods; ACL Bearings; Cometic Head gaskets; ARP head studs & fasteners; Hydra Nemesis EMS; Wideband O2 sensor; 740cc Injectors; Walbro 255lph fuel pump; Upgraded WRX starter; Equal length SS headers (3 into 1); dual Magnaflow cat converters; 2 into 1 into 2 SS exhaust with Bullet muffler; OT Fiberglass hood; Oil pressure gauge; Programmable shift light,

2017 Subaru Forester XT, metallic dark gray, 29,xxx

2005 Porsche 911 Turbo S Cabrio, 24,xxx

2006 Subaru Outback LL Bean, 166,xxx sold

92 LSL Dark Teal, Smallcar Shift Kit - sold
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  #9  
Old 10-04-2010, 08:23 PM
Cam Cam is offline
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Re: WRX Starter Issue

Is there room to tack weld the nut in place? That way you would not have to back up the mounting bolt to remove it...
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'92 Ls-L Dark Teal
11:1 CR ECUTUNE pistons
ECUTUNE .256 duration intake/exhaust cams
ECUTUNE STAGE 2AV1 ECU
Z32 MAF/SR20DET injectors
Balanced & Blueprinted
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  #10  
Old 10-04-2010, 09:03 PM
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Re: WRX Starter Issue

not unless you are welding an aluminum nut to the block

Tom
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  #11  
Old 10-05-2010, 01:31 AM
Cam Cam is offline
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Re: WRX Starter Issue

Sorry, not a welder. I am assuming that steel does not weld to aluminum well?
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'92 Ls-L Dark Teal
11:1 CR ECUTUNE pistons
ECUTUNE .256 duration intake/exhaust cams
ECUTUNE STAGE 2AV1 ECU
Z32 MAF/SR20DET injectors
Balanced & Blueprinted
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  #12  
Old 10-05-2010, 04:49 AM
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Re: WRX Starter Issue

it does not

Tom
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  #13  
Old 10-09-2010, 09:17 AM
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Re: WRX Starter Issue

Problem fixed. Thanks to Tom's excellent advice. 3/8" by 4 -1/2" partially threaded bolt. Screws through the hole, even though threads don't line up, so that no hammering necessary. Nyloc nut on the end and its taken care of.
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95 LS-i Red, 31,xxx; bone stock for now; Daily Driver

94 LS-i Emerald Pearl, 106,xxx,; 246 whp; Tomyx snorkus and HKS Cold air intake; PWR aluminum radiator, silicone hoses; Inline thermostat; enhanced coolant routing; external power steering and oil coolers; Phenolic intake manifold spacers; 2004 WRX 5 speed transmission; ACT Clutch Kit, Heavy Duty Pressure Plate, Lightweight flywheel, performance disc; Group N motor mounts; ‘07 WRX 4-pot front calipers, cryo-treated slotted Tribeca rotors; Hawk HPS ferro-carbon pads; Frozenrotor rear slotted rotors; SS brake lines, Axxis Ultimate pads; Rota Torque 17x8 wheels; 245/40-17 Bridgestone RE01-R's; Koni inserts with Ground Control coilovers, Eibach springs; K-Mac camber/caster adjustable strut mounts; Urethane swaybar bushings; Bontrager rear sway bar; Urethane differential bushing; Custom Whiteline adjustable rear lateral links; Outlaw Engineering forged underdrive pulley; custom grind Web intake and exhaust cams (11 mm lift, 250° duration); solid lifters; CP custom aluminum forged 11 to 1 pistons, Brian Crower coated SS intake & exhaust valves; Brian Crower upgraded springs w/ titanium retainers; NGK sparkplugs; RallyBob (Bob Legere) ported and polished cylinder heads; Eagle H-beam rods; ACL Bearings; Cometic Head gaskets; ARP head studs & fasteners; Hydra Nemesis EMS; Wideband O2 sensor; 740cc Injectors; Walbro 255lph fuel pump; Upgraded WRX starter; Equal length SS headers (3 into 1); dual Magnaflow cat converters; 2 into 1 into 2 SS exhaust with Bullet muffler; OT Fiberglass hood; Oil pressure gauge; Programmable shift light,

2017 Subaru Forester XT, metallic dark gray, 29,xxx

2005 Porsche 911 Turbo S Cabrio, 24,xxx

2006 Subaru Outback LL Bean, 166,xxx sold

92 LSL Dark Teal, Smallcar Shift Kit - sold
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  #14  
Old 10-10-2010, 03:44 PM
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Re: WRX Starter Issue

Got the Optima battery charged today, got it started and took it out for a quick drive. What a joy it is to drive. It is really primal. All that torque available instantaneously. The great noise of the exhaust and the solid lifters. The completely revamped suspension is so tight. Now just need to get it to pass emissions.
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95 LS-i Red, 31,xxx; bone stock for now; Daily Driver

94 LS-i Emerald Pearl, 106,xxx,; 246 whp; Tomyx snorkus and HKS Cold air intake; PWR aluminum radiator, silicone hoses; Inline thermostat; enhanced coolant routing; external power steering and oil coolers; Phenolic intake manifold spacers; 2004 WRX 5 speed transmission; ACT Clutch Kit, Heavy Duty Pressure Plate, Lightweight flywheel, performance disc; Group N motor mounts; ‘07 WRX 4-pot front calipers, cryo-treated slotted Tribeca rotors; Hawk HPS ferro-carbon pads; Frozenrotor rear slotted rotors; SS brake lines, Axxis Ultimate pads; Rota Torque 17x8 wheels; 245/40-17 Bridgestone RE01-R's; Koni inserts with Ground Control coilovers, Eibach springs; K-Mac camber/caster adjustable strut mounts; Urethane swaybar bushings; Bontrager rear sway bar; Urethane differential bushing; Custom Whiteline adjustable rear lateral links; Outlaw Engineering forged underdrive pulley; custom grind Web intake and exhaust cams (11 mm lift, 250° duration); solid lifters; CP custom aluminum forged 11 to 1 pistons, Brian Crower coated SS intake & exhaust valves; Brian Crower upgraded springs w/ titanium retainers; NGK sparkplugs; RallyBob (Bob Legere) ported and polished cylinder heads; Eagle H-beam rods; ACL Bearings; Cometic Head gaskets; ARP head studs & fasteners; Hydra Nemesis EMS; Wideband O2 sensor; 740cc Injectors; Walbro 255lph fuel pump; Upgraded WRX starter; Equal length SS headers (3 into 1); dual Magnaflow cat converters; 2 into 1 into 2 SS exhaust with Bullet muffler; OT Fiberglass hood; Oil pressure gauge; Programmable shift light,

2017 Subaru Forester XT, metallic dark gray, 29,xxx

2005 Porsche 911 Turbo S Cabrio, 24,xxx

2006 Subaru Outback LL Bean, 166,xxx sold

92 LSL Dark Teal, Smallcar Shift Kit - sold
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