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  #16  
Old 02-23-2008, 07:48 PM
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My crank didn't have any bend in it when I installed it. A quarter of a thousandth is a weird graduation for a dial gage. They are normally graduated at .001, .0005, or .0001. I wasn't suggesting changing the dial gage unless it has a short tip making it hard to position. I was suggesting you get a quality base so you can position it to check run out correctly. Your fine even with a .001 graduated dial gage, you'll still be able to clearly observe movement of a couple tens, but you need to check run out on all journals.



Quote:
Originally Posted by cdigerlando View Post
Mike:

How much bend did you have in the crank when your shop was done maching it? The dial guage I used is very accurate, it just doesn't read down to more than .25 thousands, and is difficult to position between the lobes. At less than half the allowable bend on the last journal I'm sure it will be fine. My original bearings looked very clean.

Don't forget too, I didn't coat the tops of my pistons, so they should heat up and expand fairly quickly. After speaking to CP I decided against it, so here I am. My machine shop guy has installed many CP pistons, in fact he doesn't like installing anything but, and did not think it is a problem, so at this point I'm going to trust his judgement. Besides a little piston slap at startup doesn't get me too worried.
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  #17  
Old 02-23-2008, 10:08 PM
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look what i started... Hope all goes well chuck, keep us posted!
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  #18  
Old 02-24-2008, 07:32 AM
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what did you start???
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  #19  
Old 02-24-2008, 07:38 AM
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I posted the one for the chicke and tom's build. Then this one pops up. hehe
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  #20  
Old 02-24-2008, 10:45 AM
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You didn't start this.... Chuck has been acquiring parts for his build for the past year now with the rest of LAN's customers... This thread is no different than my engine build thread that YT did or the one the LAN just finished.

He is talking about physically building a motor here, not just trying to make more hp N/A. WAY MORE technical stuff than ANYTHING in that Chike/Tom thread...
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  #21  
Old 02-24-2008, 11:05 AM
cdigerlando cdigerlando is offline
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Originally Posted by longassname View Post
My crank didn't have any bend in it when I installed it. A quarter of a thousandth is a weird graduation for a dial gage. They are normally graduated at .001, .0005, or .0001. I wasn't suggesting changing the dial gage unless it has a short tip making it hard to position. I was suggesting you get a quality base so you can position it to check run out correctly. Your fine even with a .001 graduated dial gage, you'll still be able to clearly observe movement of a couple tens, but you need to check run out on all journals.
Yes the base won't do it. Its the guage itself that won't fit.
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  #22  
Old 02-24-2008, 11:36 AM
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are you going to use stock HG's or did you get a set of cometics?
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  #23  
Old 02-24-2008, 11:41 AM
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There are a lot of very nice dial gages on ebay for cheap.



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Yes the base won't do it. Its the guage itself that won't fit.
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  #24  
Old 02-27-2008, 09:59 AM
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I contacted ARP regarding preload on the studs, as I would prefer to just grind a little off the top of the stud. They said that grinding would be fine. They did not say that preloading was bad, but did not endorse it either. I don't see why it would be a problem, although it may be a little squirly on the threads. I also asked about breaking in the studs, as they recommend re torquing after a heat cycle. They did say that "breaking in" the studs could be done by torquing them 3 - 5 times. Problem is, they claim that the head gasket needs to be re compressed, so I don't think this would be affected by just doing the initial break in, unless the clamping force is such that it compensates for any gasket expansion. At least I don't need to pull the engine again and remove the darn cams to re torque everything.

Mike: did you say that we were about 0.05" high? If so I'll just pregrind this amount off the top before installing.
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  #25  
Old 02-29-2008, 11:49 AM
cdigerlando cdigerlando is offline
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Originally Posted by SVXRide View Post
Okay, so everyone is going to remember that Chuck said this a month or so from now
-Bill
Give me a break! CP is recommending 0.0035 so 0.004 is going to be a problem? I seriously doubt it.
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  #26  
Old 02-29-2008, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by sicksubie View Post
are you going to use stock HG's or did you get a set of cometics?
cometic gaskets
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  #27  
Old 03-02-2008, 06:43 AM
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I am going to check the crank with a different dial gauge on Wed. This is really slowing down my build, as I will not be able to work on it next weekend. I will not be heating and pounding on polished and balanced crank that is bent less than a thousand. I have discussed this matter with my machine shop.
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  #28  
Old 03-02-2008, 07:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdigerlando View Post
Give me a break! CP is recommending 0.0035 so 0.004 is going to be a problem? I seriously doubt it.
I was joking, Chuck
-Bill
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  #29  
Old 03-08-2008, 09:01 AM
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longassname longassname is offline
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Ya but better safe than sorry. You are doing the right thing taking your time to check it.




Quote:
Originally Posted by cdigerlando View Post
I am going to check the crank with a different dial gauge on Wed. This is really slowing down my build, as I will not be able to work on it next weekend. I will not be heating and pounding on polished and balanced crank that is bent less than a thousand. I have discussed this matter with my machine shop.
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  #30  
Old 03-08-2008, 09:06 AM
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No, there are a couple of impreza engine builders that use a .0040 sidewall clearance on their high hp builds to make sure their customers don't swell them up in the holes; they are just noisy when cold--you should be fine.


Quote:
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Give me a break! CP is recommending 0.0035 so 0.004 is going to be a problem? I seriously doubt it.
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