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  #1  
Old 10-25-2007, 09:06 AM
cdigerlando cdigerlando is offline
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Stock Motor Mount reconditioning

I'm getting ready to redo my motor mounts so they are more heavy duty. The liquid filled rubber stock mounts probably just won't do for the new built motor. I've purchased some high strength urethane casting compound and some mold release spray from McMaster-Carr. It is the less pliable 94A compound. For starters I cut away most of the rubber from my most damaged mount. It was torn and had no more fluid in it. I then blow torched and burned away the remaining rubber. The next thing I will do is wire brush the remaining carbon to expose the metal. I may try to etch or otherwise better prepare the metal for the urethane. I'll look at the paperwork on the urethane casting compound to see the best way to do this.

I don't want to rely solely on the urethane bonding with the metal for connection to the mount. I thought of drilling holes in the top and bottom of the mount to help "attach" the urethane filler to the top and bottom circular mount plates. I'm also considering installing some through bolts to better reinforce the mount to the top and bottom plates. I would screw these bolts in before the mount was installed so that they would only stress when the engine twists and yanks on the mount, giving it extra support. I am thinking of drilling 8 holes radially around the top mount and 8 holes radially around the bottom part. Then tapping threads through every other hole in the bottom to accept the bolts. Then I will cut a piece of PVC to match the diameter of the mount and the height. I'll spray the interior of the PVC with release compound and the 4 through bolts. Then I'll bolt everything together. I'll then mix the compound and inject it through one of the 4 holes on the top, allowing the urethane to bleed a bit through the holes so it better attaches to the top and bottom plates. When everything cures I'll cut away and remove the PVC circular mold and unscrew the bolts. I'll then drill out the bolt holes a bit so that the bolts don't touch the urethane and help to disconnect it from the mount. Then I'll loosely re-attach the bolts, so when the engine twists they can stop the motor from stressing the urethane too much.

Let me know what you think. I know that Mike (LAN) was also thinking of casting his own mounts.
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  #2  
Old 10-25-2007, 10:18 AM
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TomsSVX TomsSVX is offline
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why? Spend $80 and get a pair of groupN mounts. They are going to have more strength and about 450% less time put into them.

Tom
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  #3  
Old 10-25-2007, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomsSVX View Post
why? Spend $80 and get a pair of groupN mounts. They are going to have more strength and about 450% less time put into them.

Tom
Perhaps some people will have issues with the engine being slightly raised. No? I dunno! Just throwing ideas out there. In any case, I need new motor mounts BADLY or something to keep the engine from tossing around so much. Will be doing this around xmas. I am very interested in seeing how your project works out though. I will probably get the Group N mounts though.
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1989 2.7ltr Subaru XT6 (AWD/Auto) 15.912@85.93mph
1996 3.3ltr SVX (AWD/Auto) 15.070@91.38mph
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  #4  
Old 10-25-2007, 12:40 PM
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I run groupN's in my car and my engine is lower than stock... god forbid you have to grind a little of the stock bracket and use 1/4" worth of washers

Check out my locker for details. Plus, I sell them as a bolt on... Whatever makes u happy

Tom
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  #5  
Old 10-25-2007, 02:04 PM
cdigerlando cdigerlando is offline
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Group N Mounts

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Originally Posted by TomsSVX View Post
why? Spend $80 and get a pair of groupN mounts. They are going to have more strength and about 450% less time put into them.

Tom
It's not the money. I don't like the group N setup. The bracket restraints are ass backwards. Mike was going to do a similar setup with castings.
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  #6  
Old 10-25-2007, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdigerlando View Post
The bracket restraints are ass backwards. Mike was going to do a similar setup with castings.
So what does this mean? I mean the fact that the bracket restraints of the GrounpN mounts are 'ass backwards'. What are the pros and cons of this?
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1997 2.2ltr Subaru Impreza Outback Sport Wagon (AWD/Auto) 13.03@100mph
1989 2.7ltr Subaru XT6 (AWD/Auto) 15.912@85.93mph
1996 3.3ltr SVX (AWD/Auto) 15.070@91.38mph
***R.I.P***
2010 RAV4 AWD Sport (13.717 @ 99.19mph )
2015 Honda Fit LX CVT (15.2 @ 90mph)
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  #7  
Old 10-25-2007, 03:28 PM
cdigerlando cdigerlando is offline
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Group N vs modified stock

Quote:
Originally Posted by Myxalplyx View Post
So what does this mean? I mean the fact that the bracket restraints of the GrounpN mounts are 'ass backwards'. What are the pros and cons of this?
The setup on the stock mount restraint clips are perpendicular to the motor as opposed to parallel in the group N mounts. I don't know if this matters a lot, but it seems as if the mount material breaks off there would be very little to keep the motor from lurching out of position. Truthfully I don't know if this is a big issue, its just an opinion at this point. Only time will tell which setup is better. I'm sure the Group N setup is easier.
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  #8  
Old 10-25-2007, 03:33 PM
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yeah... you are going to split the mounts u r gonna make. So do yourself a favor and get the groupn mounts... Or learn the hard way and make them.... up to you, engine mounts are one thing I would rather do when the engine is out of the car

TOm
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  #9  
Old 10-25-2007, 05:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomsSVX View Post
I run groupN's in my car and my engine is lower than stock... god forbid you have to grind a little of the stock bracket and use 1/4" worth of washers

Check out my locker for details. Plus, I sell them as a bolt on... Whatever makes u happy

Tom
Whats your going rate for a set? Not that I have any money, but I want to get a set some time.
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  #10  
Old 10-25-2007, 06:25 PM
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Myxalplyx Myxalplyx is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdigerlando View Post
The setup on the stock mount restraint clips are perpendicular to the motor as opposed to parallel in the group N mounts. I don't know if this matters a lot, but it seems as if the mount material breaks off there would be very little to keep the motor from lurching out of position. Truthfully I don't know if this is a big issue, its just an opinion at this point. Only time will tell which setup is better. I'm sure the Group N setup is easier.

You make a good point cdigerlando. Are the GroupN mount restraint clips perpendicular or parallel to the motor in a Subaru Impreza? Anyone?
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Kevin Thomas
1997 2.2ltr Subaru Impreza Outback Sport Wagon (AWD/Auto) 13.03@100mph
1989 2.7ltr Subaru XT6 (AWD/Auto) 15.912@85.93mph
1996 3.3ltr SVX (AWD/Auto) 15.070@91.38mph
***R.I.P***
2010 RAV4 AWD Sport (13.717 @ 99.19mph )
2015 Honda Fit LX CVT (15.2 @ 90mph)

Last edited by Myxalplyx; 10-25-2007 at 06:30 PM.
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  #11  
Old 10-25-2007, 07:54 PM
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they are meant to secure motion up and down. If you have enough power to rip a groupN mount, you will prob rip the bolts out of the block... Guys run 800hp wrx motors off these mounts.... I mean come on

Arron, last time I checked I had them priced at $200. You could always just buy them and install them but it raises the engine slightly and may throw off your driveshaft angles

Tom
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  #12  
Old 10-26-2007, 11:59 AM
cdigerlando cdigerlando is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomsSVX View Post
yeah... you are going to split the mounts u r gonna make. So do yourself a favor and get the groupn mounts... Or learn the hard way and make them.... up to you, engine mounts are one thing I would rather do when the engine is out of the car

TOm
I seriously doubt the mounts will split, besides the hard way is always the best way to learn.
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