The Subaru SVX World Network   SVX Network Forums
Live Chat!
SVX or Subaru Links
Old Lockers
Photo Post
How-To Documents
Message Archive
SVX Shop Search
IRC users:

Go Back   The Subaru SVX World Network > SVX Main Forums > MOD Mania > Proven Engine Enhancements

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #61  
Old 12-14-2007, 01:42 AM
SilverSpear's Avatar
SilverSpear SilverSpear is offline
Still 1.7K to go...
Subaru Silver Contributor
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Lebanon, Middle East
Posts: 7,563
Send a message via AIM to SilverSpear Send a message via MSN to SilverSpear Send a message via Skype™ to SilverSpear
Registered SVX
Great work Michael,

Cleanliness and Organization are everything in those builds
__________________
Danny

1994 Silver SVX in hybernation, awaiting for the monsterous awakening (Lebanon)
1967 Mercedes-Benz 250SL Euro Specs, Hard/Softtop, White/Red. Under Complete Restoration
2013 Mercedes-Benz SL350 Euro Specs, White/Red. Mint... Another step into SL Collection.
Reply With Quote
  #62  
Old 12-14-2007, 09:37 AM
cdigerlando cdigerlando is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Longwood, FL
Posts: 1,422
Thanks for the update with pics and instructions. You should be up and running in no time. Hopefully you have a good commute so you can break in quickly and tune with the new cams. I'm anxious to see what you come up with for numbers.
__________________
Chuck D.
1992 Subaru SVX LS-L - Heavily modded turbo
2002 Subaru Impreza WRX- Turboxs stg3 & Susp. Mods
Reply With Quote
  #63  
Old 12-14-2007, 09:46 AM
SVXRide's Avatar
SVXRide SVXRide is offline
Official AutoX Part Breaker
Subaru Gold Contributor
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Midlothian, VA 23112
Posts: 8,138
Registered SVX
Michael,
Can you provide a little more detail on "tapping in new guides" for the head studs? I didn't realize you could even buy new guides..
-Bill
__________________
Retired NASA Rocket Scientist

Most famous NASA "Child" - OSIRIS-REx delivered samples from asteroid BENNU to Earth in Sept. 2023

Center Network Member #989

'92 Fully caged, 5 speed, waiting for its fully built EG33
'92 "Test Mule", 4:44 Auto, JDM 4:44 Rear Diff with Mech LSD, Tuned headers, Full one-off suspension
'92(?) Laguna, 6 spd and other stuff (still at OT's place)
My Locker
Reply With Quote
  #64  
Old 12-14-2007, 09:53 AM
longassname's Avatar
longassname longassname is offline
Just some dude.
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 3,986
Significant Technical Input
The guides line up the block, cylinder head gasket, and cyllinger head. They are the 14.7mm x 18mm steel sleeves in the front, top and back top cylinder head bolt holes. They have to be removed when machining the deck and replaced before installing the heads. The OEM part number is 804014060



Quote:
Originally Posted by SVXRide View Post
Michael,
Can you provide a little more detail on "tapping in new guides" for the head studs? I didn't realize you could even buy new guides..
-Bill
Reply With Quote
  #65  
Old 12-14-2007, 07:35 PM
longassname's Avatar
longassname longassname is offline
Just some dude.
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 3,986
Significant Technical Input
Today I performed the always unpleasant job of discharging the hydraulic lash adjusters. I did this by pressing them between a piece of cardboard and a short section of 1" round in a shop vise. You want the hole in the side of the lash adjuster pointing downwards for the oil to drip out of. You compress each lash adjuster it's full range of movement, letting the oil drip out of it. Each one has to be done half a dozen to a dozen times; each one is a little different. In the end the plunger in the middle bottom of the lash adjuster should be springy and compressible through it's range of motion by hand. If it's not then it's no good. I mark my piece of round on the first one to give me an indication of how far to go on the rest. You obviously don't want to try to compress them beyond the range of motion of the plunger.

Reply With Quote
  #66  
Old 12-15-2007, 07:16 AM
SVXMAN2001 SVXMAN2001 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: long island, NY
Posts: 2,033
Send a message via AIM to SVXMAN2001
wow lan this thread is great info. I would have never known to purge the lash adjusters. How many complete revolutions on the vice would you say you did to fully compress the lash adjusters? Or is it just something you eyeballed...
Reply With Quote
  #67  
Old 12-15-2007, 09:05 AM
SVXRide's Avatar
SVXRide SVXRide is offline
Official AutoX Part Breaker
Subaru Gold Contributor
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Midlothian, VA 23112
Posts: 8,138
Registered SVX
Quote:
Originally Posted by longassname View Post
The guides line up the block, cylinder head gasket, and cyllinger head. They are the 14.7mm x 18mm steel sleeves in the front, top and back top cylinder head bolt holes. They have to be removed when machining the deck and replaced before installing the heads. The OEM part number is 804014060
Michael,
Thanks! I've been under the impression - until now - that you could just reuse the guides.
-Bill
__________________
Retired NASA Rocket Scientist

Most famous NASA "Child" - OSIRIS-REx delivered samples from asteroid BENNU to Earth in Sept. 2023

Center Network Member #989

'92 Fully caged, 5 speed, waiting for its fully built EG33
'92 "Test Mule", 4:44 Auto, JDM 4:44 Rear Diff with Mech LSD, Tuned headers, Full one-off suspension
'92(?) Laguna, 6 spd and other stuff (still at OT's place)
My Locker
Reply With Quote
  #68  
Old 12-15-2007, 09:16 AM
longassname's Avatar
longassname longassname is offline
Just some dude.
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 3,986
Significant Technical Input
I don't know. I just did it by feel. I was particullary careful on the first one before I marked the piece of round I was using. You'll see in the 2nd picture I marked a ring on the piece of round with a silver paint marker to indicate where fully compressed is.


Quote:
Originally Posted by SVXMAN2001 View Post
wow lan this thread is great info. I would have never known to purge the lash adjusters. How many complete revolutions on the vice would you say you did to fully compress the lash adjusters? Or is it just something you eyeballed...
Reply With Quote
  #69  
Old 12-15-2007, 05:59 PM
longassname's Avatar
longassname longassname is offline
Just some dude.
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 3,986
Significant Technical Input
Since the hydraulic lash adjusters are so good at holding fluid, the last thing you want to do is clean them with a solvent so that it contaminates the oil inside of them. To clean them I blew each one off with compressed air and then placed it in clean 0w40 synthetic engine oil. While they were soaking in their bath I thoroughly and evenly applied graphite moly assembly lube to the journals, lobes, and thrust faces of the exhaust camshaft. I also throughly and evenly applied graphite moly assembly lube to the journal and thrust surfaces of the cylinder head and dropped the lash adjusters in.







At this point things were ready for the exhaust camshaft to go in. With the lash adjusters discharged, everything lubed, and the notch on the camshaft facing directly downward the exhaust camshaft slid right in. This is important--you do not want to use the bolts and caps to force/draw the camshaft into place. I applied graphite moly assembly lube to the caps and installed the exhaust cam caps using only a deep well socket and my hands--no socket wrench.

Reply With Quote
  #70  
Old 12-15-2007, 06:01 PM
longassname's Avatar
longassname longassname is offline
Just some dude.
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 3,986
Significant Technical Input
The intake camshaft has a spring loaded scissors gear on it to prevent gear whine. Before installing the intake camshaft the scissors gear must be locked in a preloaded position so that the teeth of both gears line up. I have the genuine Subaru tool for doing this but you can make your own with some flat metal some bolts and some ingenuity. The gears are hardened so a large screwdriver and some care would do the trick too. With the scissors locked in the correct preloaded/aligned position I cleaned the packing grease from it and as usual...thoroughly and evenly coated the thrust faces, journals, and lobes with graphite moly assembly lube. I then installed it in it's correct alignment which is with the notch on the nose of the cam in the same direction as the notch on the exhaust cam and with the gear tooth with dot in between the two gear teeth with the dots on the exhaust cam. Since this is the left hand side the notches are facing downwards...on the right hand side the notches are facing upwards. Since there are two sets of alignment dots on each cam gear you have to first go by the notches and then go by the dots in order to make sure you use the right dots and don't get a cam 180 degrees out of phase. Same as with the exhaust cam the intake cam went all the way in by hand and the cap bolts were installed with only a deep well socket and hand--no socket wrench. I then torqued all the bolts. I then took one bolt out at a time and reinstalled and torqued it with blue threadlock.








I had already coated the friction surfaces of the end cap with graphite moly assembly lube; I now applied ultra-black to the mating surface in the fsm pattern. I took the bolt out from the intake cam gear and I got a little crazy here and installed the end cap and torqued all 4 bolts with blue threadlock at one time. I installed the plugs in the back of the head with ultra-black, wiped away the excess from the mating surface, and imediately installed the cylinder head cover so that it would correctly fix the alignment of the plugs before the sealant dried.



Last edited by longassname; 12-15-2007 at 06:05 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #71  
Old 12-15-2007, 11:24 PM
Dessertrunner's Avatar
Dessertrunner Dessertrunner is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Griffith NSW
Posts: 2,156
Well thanks Mike I owe you a 6 pack of beer I was reading your progress and I though "I think I might have got my cam's 180 degree out". I am putting new head gaskets on my wifes SVX and I was waiting on parts from the USA. Looking at your instructions today I thought I better check these cams before I put the engine back in and guess what they were both out. I am trying to get a bit of experiance before I build up my SC kit. Have a great day.
Tony
__________________
1995 - SVX 700,000 K Mine, DMS Struts to lift car 2in. Tyres Wrangler Silent Armor 235/70R16, PBR Radiator. 6 speed with DCCD and R180 rer diff, Heavy duty top strut mounts front and rear. Speedo correction box fitted. New stero (gave up on the old one). Back seat removed and 2 spare tyres fitted for desert driving. ECUTune SC sitting in the box for the next SVX.
1992 - SVX 255 K Wife (Want to stay Married so not allowed to fit SC)
1992 - SVX Pearl with black roof race car roll cauge etc ready to race. Ex Tasman Targa car.
1995 - SVX Green low k mint condiation.
1995 - SVX Rally car, ex Matts car. Now to be used on track.
1992 - SVX red & Black being converted to Mid Engine.
1995 - SVX Red 143,000 bit rough.
Owned 5 others Subaru back to a 1974 1400 GSR.
Reply With Quote
  #72  
Old 12-16-2007, 09:54 AM
SVXMAN2001 SVXMAN2001 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: long island, NY
Posts: 2,033
Send a message via AIM to SVXMAN2001
Lan, did you buy brand new exhaust/intake end caps? or just reuse the old ones? I know its assumed, but i just want to ask the cam installed are the performance ones right? Not stock?
Reply With Quote
  #73  
Old 12-16-2007, 10:37 AM
longassname's Avatar
longassname longassname is offline
Just some dude.
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 3,986
Significant Technical Input
What do you mean by exhaust/intake end caps? Yes the cams are the ECUtune performance cams.


Quote:
Originally Posted by SVXMAN2001 View Post
Lan, did you buy brand new exhaust/intake end caps? or just reuse the old ones? I know its assumed, but i just want to ask the cam installed are the performance ones right? Not stock?
Reply With Quote
  #74  
Old 12-16-2007, 02:23 PM
Dessertrunner's Avatar
Dessertrunner Dessertrunner is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Griffith NSW
Posts: 2,156
Mike how many miles was on this engine. The reason I ask is I am not sure if I should rebuild my existing engine for the SC (has 430,000 kilometers) or my spare (130,000). Did you check wear etc on the cam jounels. I thought my high K engine might only be good to use as a anchour in the end.
__________________
1995 - SVX 700,000 K Mine, DMS Struts to lift car 2in. Tyres Wrangler Silent Armor 235/70R16, PBR Radiator. 6 speed with DCCD and R180 rer diff, Heavy duty top strut mounts front and rear. Speedo correction box fitted. New stero (gave up on the old one). Back seat removed and 2 spare tyres fitted for desert driving. ECUTune SC sitting in the box for the next SVX.
1992 - SVX 255 K Wife (Want to stay Married so not allowed to fit SC)
1992 - SVX Pearl with black roof race car roll cauge etc ready to race. Ex Tasman Targa car.
1995 - SVX Green low k mint condiation.
1995 - SVX Rally car, ex Matts car. Now to be used on track.
1992 - SVX red & Black being converted to Mid Engine.
1995 - SVX Red 143,000 bit rough.
Owned 5 others Subaru back to a 1974 1400 GSR.
Reply With Quote
  #75  
Old 12-16-2007, 03:37 PM
SVXMAN2001 SVXMAN2001 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: long island, NY
Posts: 2,033
Send a message via AIM to SVXMAN2001
Lan, end caps aka cam caps. The 3 caps that hold each camshaft. 3 for intake 3 for exhaust.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:50 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
© 2001-2015 SVX World Network
(208)-906-1122