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#1
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Front engine seal
As in, what's it take to replace it? This is the only repair that my SVX currently needs that I don't know how to do.
Well, okay, that and the CV. I do need the timing belt replaced, but, jeez, if I can save myself all that labor and just do it myself, I'd like to.
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2005 RX-8 Grand Touring 2005 Outback 2002 Mercedes-Benz E320 wagon END OF LINE |
#2
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I have to do this too The timing belt has to come out to do it. I plan on changing it at the same time. I have done timing belts on two 2.2 engines and had the dealer fix the leaky front seal on the 97 OBS. Awhile ago that was.
Lets see goes like this..... Take out the cooling fans, take off the belts, take off the main crank pulley. I used a big strap wrench (brorrowed) to get the bolt off. It was really tight and good size breaker bar. Strap wrench on teh pulley and breaker bar on the bolt. Then the covers come off and the timing belt is in there. Some of the little 10mm bolt (head size) broke out of the plastic when removed Last person had gotten them too tight. JB Weld is good for a repair. The belt comes out.... well on the 2.2 the tensioner and idle pulley come out and then the belt falls out. the tensioner had to be compressed and the belt is well mark for installation. So I am thinking the SVX is similar to the 2.2. Front oil seal...... is in the front of the oil pump. The oil pump has the main crank through the middle of it. On my OBS the seal was pushed out which meant the pump was going bad. A plate in the back had come loss and too much pressure was pushing out the seal. So...... I am thinking about doing the oil pump on the SVX. If you do just the seal then you need a sleeve to push the new seal in. It has to have the right ID and OD (close in size to the hard part of the seal) so that some force can be applied to set the seal in using a hammer on the sleeve. I think I would maybe take the radiator out also to have a little more swinging space. The sleeve has to be long enough to clear the end of the crank shaft. Might also ventrue into cam shaft seals at the same time but I don't know about the pullers for this. Just some thoughts as I have not done it yet myself. |
#3
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The timing belts on these cars are a breeze compared to others. I guess you can pull the fans if you want but I didn't find it necessary.
The way I pull small seals is to carefully drill a small hole in the seal, not gouging the crank or seal land. Then insert a small 90 degree or hook pick into the hole and pull the seal out. A good seal installer can be had for a buck or two at your local muffler shop. Take your new seal to them and ask them to cut and size a piece of scrap (new) pipe to drive the seal in place. Voila! Make sure you grease the seal's I.D. before installing, otherwise it will dry-burn and leak soon afterward. I don't want to sound like an old record but if you haven't changed your PCV valve in a long time this would be the time to do so. I can't tell you how many mechs I've watched fight new seals into engines, rear axles, etc. and not check the venting systems. A few weeks later another seal will be leaking... this week the crank, next week a cam seal, shortly followed by a gasket, yadda, yadda... This is a fairly easy job that might take you a while the first time around but with a little planning and patience you'll get a great sense of accomplishment and save enough bucks to buy a round or two in July (hint, hint ) Beav p.s. I see you broke the mil mark - Congrats! Last edited by Beav; 04-05-2002 at 08:39 PM. |
#4
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the thing you are going to need the most of is patience. it takes a long time to remove everything so you can get a clear shot at it.
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#5
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Quote:
Okay, so the seal sounds pretty easy to replace. I basically just pull the old one out and put the new one in. Okay, I can do that! Hey, if I muck it up, I'm not too proud to have it flatbedded to Ann Arbor Subaru to clean up after me. Thanks for your advice on how to set the new seal. Does it require much force to get it in? I'm worried that with the radiator there I won't have the room to swing a hammer. I wanted to replace the coolant anyway, so should I just pull the radiator, too? Oh, and as long as I'm in there, should I replace the water pump? My car has 129,000 miles on it, and I am pretty sure the water pump is original. Ooh! Ooh! Ooh! One more question: How do I get the crank pulley off? Is it just going to stay put while I remove the bolt or is there a tool necessary to keep it steady? Thanks!
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2005 RX-8 Grand Touring 2005 Outback 2002 Mercedes-Benz E320 wagon END OF LINE Last edited by Mr. Pockets; 04-08-2002 at 08:09 AM. |
#6
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Quote:
What does a BAD PVC look like? |
#7
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Mr. Pockets
Not quite the 'mil' mark - but getting htere, thanks! I was apparently feeling a little greek, I meant thousand. Okay, so the seal sounds pretty easy to replace. I basically just pull the old one out and put the new one in. Okay, I can do that! Getting the old one out is usually more difficult than putting the new one in. Hey, if I muck it up, I'm not too proud to have it flatbedded to Ann Arbor Subaru to clean up after me. That's the attitude to have in a 'nothing ventured, nothing gained' situation. Also don't forget that 'a wise man knows when to stop'. Even though this is a relatively easy job for a pro, some things come easier for some people. Have fun and take your time. Thanks for your advice on how to set the new seal. Does it require much force to get it in? I'm worried that with the radiator there I won't have the room to swing a hammer. I wanted to replace the coolant anyway, so should I just pull the radiator, too? The seal is coated in rubber so it's fairly easy to push in, you may need to tap it with a hammer but not very hard. BTW, when you lube the seal, just lube the I.D. and not the O.D. - you'll want the O.D. dry so the seal stays put. If you want to remove the radiator go ahead but it shouldn't be required. Oh, and as long as I'm in there, should I replace the water pump? My car has 129,000 miles on it, and I am pretty sure the water pump is original. Being as how you are already there and this isn't your forte, I'd go ahead and replace it. I'd give the same advice to someone paying to have the job done. For myself I let it go because it takes little time for me to do the job. How do I get the crank pulley off? Is it just going to stay put while I remove the bolt or is there a tool necessary to keep it steady? I used a rather large pair of pliers, however you could use an inexpensive strap-type oil filter wrench also, less than $10 at the parts store. I was able to wiggle my pulley/dampener off without a puller but some may not be so lucky. Again a parts store should be able to fix you up (I think Autozone has free tool rental when you buy parts there - you know how difficult that was for me, don't you? ) Beav |
#8
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Quote:
The check valve can still move but whether it seals completely when it should is another story. Some people just rinse them out and hope for the best. My preference is to replace them for a few bucks. You'll want to check the condition of the other hoses in the system. The hoses from the cam covers to the airbox, pcv hose, etc. They can clog, collapse, fall off, etc. Some will even suck a hole through the side of the hose. Beav |
#9
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This sounds a lot like my problem, when I left Reading Sunday morning, it was about 25 degrees, I got right on the turnpike at 70MPH, at the first stop 60 miles in, I had lost almost a quart of oil and the whole underside of the car was dripping with oil.
After I filled the oil, I didn't lose any noticible amount of oil the rest of the trip (over 700 miles). I'm off to check all the vacuum hoses and replace the PCV valve, but I have a feeling I'm in for a new front seal. Oh well, 216,000 miles isn't bad, but I was hoping for 250,000 miles before I needed any non routine engine work. Doug
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1992 LS Touring (6/91) - Currently undergoing a five speed swap Black over Claret with spoiler; 235,000 miles; Mods: 2002 Legacy 5 speed, ACT Pressure Plate, Excedy Clutch, Short Throw Shifter, Aussie Powerchip 1992 LS Touring (6/91) Black over Claret with 2.5" setback spoiler; 202,000 miles; Mods: B&M Cooler 1994 LSi (4/93) Bordeaux Pearl; 198,000 miles; Mods: Weight reduction. 1969 Mustang GT Convertible 1970 Mustang Convertible 2000 Ford Excursion Sola lingua bona est lingua mortua. My Locker |
#10
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I'd be more inclined to think that the age of the seals, coupled with the temperature, created the leak. Once good and warmed they probably softened up enough to control the seepage. Plus when the engine is hot the rings have expanded and control the blow-by more efficiently. At least the bottom of the car shouldn't rust now.
Beav |
#11
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What kind of lube is generally used for the seals? My timing belt is long overdue for a change and I've been seeing some oil at the bottom of the timing belt covers as well as small spots of oil on the ground for awhile now.
KuoH Quote:
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#12
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This is one of those cases where most anything is better than nothing. I normally use a silicone grease, mainly because it's always on my cart and handy. Bearing grease, motor oil, vaseline, etc. will also work, although I prefer greases over oils as they'll stay in place longer. The purpose is to keep the seal lubed up until engine oil takes over the job.
Beav
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