CEL Codes, where do I turn for repairs?

[FlagstaffSVX]

So I've got these three codes:

24: Bypass air control solenoid valve
28: LH knock sensor
34: EGR solenoid valve inoperable

The powers that be have all said that you should fix the lowest numbered codes first because those systems affect the higher numbered systems. I've found plenty of info on how to clean/fix #28 and #34 but I've only found one thread that had a reference to #24. It's under the throttle body right?

I've got the FSM but it's so big and confusing, I often can't find sections that will help me repair things. The most I found on these codes is a section explaining what they do.

So how do I fix the #24 and are there instructions for translating the U-Check mode codes to the FSM?

Edit: I found the pages in the FSB but it's all rather complicated. I think the part I'm hung up the most on is why do we put sensors on engines to detect problems, when the most common problem is the sensor is faulty? Oh, and the #34 code mysteriously dissappeared as well. Maybe driving through Phoenix at 110 degrees unstuck the solenoid?

[FlagstaffSVX]

And what's the difference between #24 in the How-To and #24 in the SVX-IW? The How-To folder lists it as #24: Air Control Valve or Circuit. Should I just take it off and clean it to see if that makes the codes go away?

[Beav]

Originally Posted by FlagstaffSVX

I think the part I'm hung up the most on is why do we put sensors on engines to detect problems, when the most common problem is the sensor is faulty? Oh, and the #34 code mysteriously dissappeared as well. Maybe driving through Phoenix at 110 degrees unstuck the solenoid?

The only sensor that's in place solely to detect a problem is a downstream O2 sensor on an OBDll vehicle.

A loose/bad vacuum line or a chunk-o-crap that broke loose may be the culprit for #34.

I have been constantly getting code 34, egr solenoid, in my 92. I've reset it numerous times... and the part is located under the intake manifold. from dealer it is $60. A shop quoted $200 for replacement. If anyone knows how to clean and fix it please let me know.

[FlagstaffSVX]

I'm gonna try to tackle it this weekend. If I manage to get to it, I'll post my findings soon after (read: Monday at the earliest )

[FlagstaffSVX]

Follow up:

Well, I didn't find the time to try #34 this weekend, but I did manage to clear the #28 on my other SVX. Since it's not my daily driver, I can work on it without fear of not being able to get to work and I figured that since both cars had that same code, fixing it once before would make the second time go that much smoother. I used the U-joint socket to get under the intake and took the alternator off. I also tried to take off the A/C bracket but couldn't budge it so I left it alone. With lots of patience, I managed to snake the sensor out of there but not before snipping off the mounting clip off the sensor connector. I couldn't get it out any other way. After that, I washed both halves of the connector with warm-soapy water and reconnected everything. For the first time in my life, I've got an SVX with no error codes. (well, my off-the-road pearl that is, not my daily-driver )

Next weekend is Lake Powell, but maybe I can find time durning the week to try for #34.

I ended up going to dealer, and they are replacing the egr solenoid for code 34... in the end will cost me 170, parts and labor... now, I also told them to look into my random overheating problem, which I think is the thermostat... and they told me the enging is leaking coolant internally, and to fix it would cost $2800, and they can only get 80% of the parts... so I will probly just take extra care of oil and coolant system, use some stop leak to help... until it gets bad. No money is going into the body... Letting it rust away.

[Earthworm]

CLTMSTR - do we want to know what your ID means?

[FlagstaffSVX]

Sounds like you've got a bad water pump. Cost me 180 and two days to do it myself with the repair manual, and a friend to help put the crank nut back on. Extra for a new timing belt too.