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  #31  
Old 03-26-2005, 10:39 AM
manofmayo manofmayo is offline
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um......

my local subaru shop, which all the locals go to, told me Friday that there is no such adjustment on my transmission and that I need to start saving for a rebuilt tranny.

hahaha....um WRONG!
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  #32  
Old 03-26-2005, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manofmayo
um......

my local subaru shop, which all the locals go to, told me Friday that there is no such adjustment on my transmission and that I need to start saving for a rebuilt tranny.

hahaha....um WRONG!
yep,
your subaru shop is worng. My subaru dealer told me that there is that kind of adjustment, but they told me that its not worth doin on this and have some money to have a new or rebuilt transmission.

anyway thts wht they tell to us, inorder to make money from us.... hahaha

-Pavan.
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  #33  
Old 03-26-2005, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rotorflyr
Do the tinkering before the Drinkering.............
(especialy before tinkering on my car if need be)
You mean adjustment before aperitif?


Box wrench before Box-O-Wine?


Labor before Liquer?



Work before play???








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  #34  
Old 03-26-2005, 12:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manofmayo
um......

my local subaru shop, which all the locals go to, told me Friday that there is no such adjustment on my transmission and that I need to start saving for a rebuilt tranny.

hahaha....um WRONG!
Take a copy of the service manual in there and tell them to shove it.
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  #35  
Old 03-27-2005, 09:56 AM
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so we have to turn the adjustment nut 'clockwise' to compensate high flares. Right? and then tighten it in its position by lock nut. Right?

-Pavan
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  #36  
Old 03-27-2005, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pavanbabut
so we have to turn the adjustment nut 'clockwise' to compensate high flares. Right? and then tighten it in its position by lock nut. Right?

-Pavan
Yes. turning the adjustment screw clockwise tightens up the band to compensate for band wear.
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  #37  
Old 03-27-2005, 10:25 PM
manofmayo manofmayo is offline
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Question

After tightening the nut, why do you have to unscrew it 2-3 turns?
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  #38  
Old 03-27-2005, 11:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manofmayo
After tightening the nut, why do you have to unscrew it 2-3 turns?
I am also having the same doubt, but i think tht it is for setting it back to factory setting (but i am not sure)... i will tighten my nut a little bit to compensate the wear as svxfiles has stated and i am not goin to unscrew it anymore, just tighten it clockwise....

If I am wrong can anyone tell whts the right way to do this job?

-Pavan.
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  #39  
Old 03-28-2005, 04:43 AM
LarryIII LarryIII is offline
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I did the brake band adjustment this past Saturday.
Once you get all the stuff out of the way and can get a wrench on the locking nut; here are the steps:

First, loosen the 17mm locking nut by turning it counterclockwise.

Second, turn the 8 mm, square, brake band adjusting rod clockwise untill you feel it drag. Be careful that the locking nut does not tighten as you turn the brake band adjusting rod clockwise or this will be the cause of the drag. If it does, loosen it up with your finger (CRC-56 is a wonderful thing). Repeat the procedure as required.

Third, when you think that the adjustment is complete, tighten the locking nut with the 17mm wrench by turning it clockwise. Make sure it is really tight.


Now put everthing (airbox & vac. hoses) back. Now go wash your hands real good (and don't forget to scrub those fingernails). Then go out and test drive the car to check the difference. Good Luck.

I know that the shop manual says to torque the brake band adjusting rod to a certain value then back it off 3 full turns. But I cannot possibly see how anyone can get any kind of torque wrench on the rod while the tranny is still in the car. I discussed this exact point with one of the good SVX service techs at Rafferty Subaru and he said that you can only set the torques when the tranny is out of the car on its dolly , not in the car. When the tranny is in the car you have to "guess by the feel."
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Last edited by LarryIII; 03-28-2005 at 04:48 AM. Reason: speeeling
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  #40  
Old 03-28-2005, 08:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryIII
I did the brake band adjustment this past Saturday.
Once you get all the stuff out of the way and can get a wrench on the locking nut; here are the steps:

First, loosen the 17mm locking nut by turning it counterclockwise.

Second, turn the 8 mm, square, brake band adjusting rod clockwise untill you feel it drag. Be careful that the locking nut does not tighten as you turn the brake band adjusting rod clockwise or this will be the cause of the drag. If it does, loosen it up with your finger (CRC-56 is a wonderful thing). Repeat the procedure as required.

Third, when you think that the adjustment is complete, tighten the locking nut with the 17mm wrench by turning it clockwise. Make sure it is really tight.


Now put everthing (airbox & vac. hoses) back. Now go wash your hands real good (and don't forget to scrub those fingernails). Then go out and test drive the car to check the difference. Good Luck.

I know that the shop manual says to torque the brake band adjusting rod to a certain value then back it off 3 full turns. But I cannot possibly see how anyone can get any kind of torque wrench on the rod while the tranny is still in the car. I discussed this exact point with one of the good SVX service techs at Rafferty Subaru and he said that you can only set the torques when the tranny is out of the car on its dolly , not in the car. When the tranny is in the car you have to "guess by the feel."
Hi Larry,

thank you very much for your detailed write-up, this is wht i am waiting for... One more doubt is, can we perform this without removing vaccum hoses? just thinking whether we' can do tht or not.... (becos i can view the nut wihtout removing it, but dunno if' we perform the job or not without removing the hoses)

If not i will take out the stuff, just want to know whether we can do or not without removing it.

-Pavan.

Last edited by pavanbabut; 03-28-2005 at 08:19 AM.
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  #41  
Old 03-28-2005, 09:41 AM
LarryIII LarryIII is offline
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Pavan...,

You have to disconnect the vac hoses from the aibox and remove the airbox. You can leave the hoses connected at their other ends. Just bend the hoses out your way, they are flexible enough.
You can see the locking nut and the brake band adjustment rod easily enough. However, it is a royal PITA to align the wrench on the nut and turn the wrench to loosen the locking nut. The end of the wrench opposite the nut sits in a narrow cavity formed between the starter motor and the engine. There is not enough room to turn the wrench alot, so you have to lift the wrench off the nut and reposition it. Do youself a favor. First, spray the nut and rod with a bolt loosener (WD-40, CRC-56, etc.). Then do something else for an hour (clean the airbox, watch TV, wash your hands, etc). Then try to loosen the nut. The first time I did it I only waited 20 minutes and I couldn't budge the nut. I resprayed and watched some cartoons on TV and it worked.

'tha, tha, tha, tha, that's all folks !'

PS: Good Luck.
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  #42  
Old 03-28-2005, 04:22 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pavanbabut
I am also having the same doubt, but i think tht it is for setting it back to factory setting (but i am not sure)... i will tighten my nut a little bit to compensate the wear as svxfiles has stated and i am not goin to unscrew it anymore, just tighten it clockwise....

If I am wrong can anyone tell whts the right way to do this job?

-Pavan.
Read message No.19 on the previous page.

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  #43  
Old 04-01-2005, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryIII
Pavan...,

You have to disconnect the vac hoses from the aibox and remove the airbox. You can leave the hoses connected at their other ends. Just bend the hoses out your way, they are flexible enough.
You can see the locking nut and the brake band adjustment rod easily enough. However, it is a royal PITA to align the wrench on the nut and turn the wrench to loosen the locking nut. The end of the wrench opposite the nut sits in a narrow cavity formed between the starter motor and the engine. There is not enough room to turn the wrench alot, so you have to lift the wrench off the nut and reposition it. Do youself a favor. First, spray the nut and rod with a bolt loosener (WD-40, CRC-56, etc.). Then do something else for an hour (clean the airbox, watch TV, wash your hands, etc). Then try to loosen the nut. The first time I did it I only waited 20 minutes and I couldn't budge the nut. I resprayed and watched some cartoons on TV and it worked.

'tha, tha, tha, tha, that's all folks !'

PS: Good Luck.
Hi Larry,

I did this today and i am not exactly sure how much to turn, but i turned it like maybe 2-3 full turns clockwise, but even then i haven't feel any drag (BTW wht exactly are you guys meant by drag?), i left it there and i tightened the lockin nut and reinstalled the air box and went for a test ride. Yes it did decrease the rpm flares during shifting, but i am not sure whether the shifting is right or not and the rpms are still around 2500 (dropped from 3200 while shifting from 1-2, previosuly before doing this).

Can you suggest me an easiest way to test the perfectness of shifting and wht i have to do with the band nut again if something is wrong with the present setting?

thanks in advance,
-Pavan.

Last edited by pavanbabut; 04-01-2005 at 02:18 PM.
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  #44  
Old 05-05-2005, 02:54 PM
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to avoid starting a new thread, i figured i'd just revive an old one. on tuesday, i developed a shift flare from 1st to 2nd (not 2nd to 3rd). after doing some reading and talkng to someone who knows much more about SVXs than me, i'm pretty sure my car needs the brake band adjustment. for fear of totally b0rking my teh tranny myself, i thought i'd take it in. my independant subaru specialist says the tranny needs to be removed and wants to charge me for six hours labor? can this be true?
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  #45  
Old 05-05-2005, 03:01 PM
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It's not an easy, of fun job, but some of us can do it on the car, start to finish, in a half an hour.
The first time I did mine it was a pain filled frustrating three hour H3LL!
Now, as long as the engine is not too hot, it's a half hour.
Maybe a member who is experienced with this, and who lives near you can help?
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