The Subaru SVX World Network   SVX Network Forums
Live Chat!
SVX or Subaru Links
Old Lockers
Photo Post
How-To Documents
Message Archive
SVX Shop Search
IRC users:

Go Back   The Subaru SVX World Network > SVX Main Forums > Technical Q & A

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #16  
Old 09-23-2009, 05:05 AM
TomsSVX's Avatar
TomsSVX TomsSVX is offline
Maniac modifier
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Branchburg, New Jersey
Posts: 15,489
Registered SVX Classic SVX
Re: Need info on 2.5 lt SUB motor

Quote:
Originally Posted by robinhoodof she View Post
Hey thanks guy's for all the suggestions, just logged on here now...been work'n late everynight...
So these are common for piston slap....hummmm car is a 99 with 160,000 miles, few weeks ago I heard "something", sounded like bottom end noise but was'nt sure. week later he told me it overheated on the way home (never did this before) so I assumed it was the waterpump...previous sound seemed to come from the drivers side front area. When I pulled off the front end I found that the belt, idler & water pump had recently been replaced. Had a journeyman mechanic come over & listen & he figures it's bottom end. But you guys could be right piston slaps a possibility.
But I don't know why it overheated...could be a relay or sensor...will have to look into further....THANKS AGAIN!!!!
oh it is dohc...can I swap any motor in it's place???????
Difference between piston slap and rod knock is when the engine is cold, piston slap will be louder and as it heats up get quieter. If it were rod knock, the hotter the engine(oil temp) the louder the noise. My Forester has some noticable slap and has been running for a very long time.

Tom
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 09-23-2009, 08:13 AM
huck369's Avatar
huck369 huck369 is offline
Inventor of the 5-speed swap
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Somerset, KY
Posts: 5,604
Significant Technical Input Registered SVX
Re: Need info on 2.5 lt SUB motor

You can drop in a SOHC 2.5 (or 2.2) but more info on that can be had at NASIOC, as they do lots of swaps over there...(just put on your flame suit before entering....)
__________________
Huck
Subaru Ambassador
92 SVX LS-Tour Magnaflow Exhaust, 5-Spd-AWD
88 XT6 AWD 5-Speed "Bride of FrankenWedge"
15 Impreza Premium Sedan
15 Crosstrek XV 5-Speed
My 5-Speed "How-To" Write-up
1976 Pontiac Firebird Formula
Current Count of Subaru's Owned.... "70"
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 09-26-2009, 10:22 PM
robinhoodof she robinhoodof she is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Edmonton Alberta Canada
Posts: 45
Re: Need info on 2.5 lt SUB motor

Quote:
Originally Posted by TomsSVX View Post
Difference between piston slap and rod knock is when the engine is cold, piston slap will be louder and as it heats up get quieter. If it were rod knock, the hotter the engine(oil temp) the louder the noise. My Forester has some noticable slap and has been running for a very long time.

Tom
Thanks Tom ...will try & narrow it down!!!
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 09-26-2009, 10:22 PM
robinhoodof she robinhoodof she is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Edmonton Alberta Canada
Posts: 45
Re: Need info on 2.5 lt SUB motor

Quote:
Originally Posted by huck369 View Post
You can drop in a SOHC 2.5 (or 2.2) but more info on that can be had at NASIOC, as they do lots of swaps over there...(just put on your flame suit before entering....)
Thanks....Huck...neat site...going to register & see what's up.....
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 10-01-2009, 05:48 AM
alia176 alia176 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Tijeras, NM
Posts: 583
Send a message via Yahoo to alia176
Re: Need info on 2.5 lt SUB motor

If it's overheating, check for bubbles in the radiator overflow tank. Rev the engine and look for aquarium style bubbles coming up in the overflow tank. If you see this then it's time for a new head gasket. That's what happened to this forester I worked on. Then it's time to pull the engine, which is very easy.

I did a writeup on a Forester website:

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulle...rogress-60595/

Copy/paste:

Hello everyone,

My wife volunteered me to help out her friend by doing an engine and tranny removal, so I pulled the engine and trans out two days ago. The vehicle is a '99 forester with the EJ25 SOHC engine. Using the information from this site, the process turned out to be very simple and straightforward. I will outline the steps that were used to remove the engine and the tranny, just another view point on the same procedure. My list mimmicks another list that I found on this site and I hope it helps out other folks.


1. Drain coolant and flush coolant system. By placing the rear of the car a little higher than the front, most of the coolant will drain out. Additionally, the Tstat is removed and only fresh water is used to clean out the coolant system. I use a garden hose and an adapter to flush out the heater lines and cores. The car is driven with fresh water and then allowed to drain for few hours.
2. Front of car is parked on ramps. If possible, park all four wheel on ramps or on jack stands. The more room you have underneath, the easier it'll be.
3. Remove splash shield from under engine bay.
4. Open hood all the way and using a strap to keep it open. I removed the prop rod because it was annoying me!
5. Remove belt covers using 10mm
6. Depressurize fuel system - run engine, pull fuel pump relay under dash. Engine dies.
7. Put transmission in neutral, roll down windows.
8. Disconnect battery , remove battery and tray
9. Disconnect radiator hoses
10. Remove overflow tank and drain old coolant.
11. Remove fan assembly (two connectors) 10mm
12. Remove Radiator
13. Place a large cardboard in front of the A/C condenser to protect it from accidentally getting hit with tools or engine during removal.
14. Disconnect fuel line trio - mark hoses first.
15. Disconnect MAF sensor wire
16. Disconnect throttle position sensor wire
17. Disconnect and remove air intake assembly and large box at the throttle body
18. Remove the A/C belt tensioning bracket
19. Disconnect ALT and A/C compressor connectors and move the harness out of the way.
20. Remove Alternator
21. Remove AC Compressor - you'll end up removing the lower bracket with the compressor. Notice the large bracket to the left of the A/C comp, that's the engine lifting eye. It stays with the engine!
22. Put the comp in the space vacated by the battery. Careful twisting the flexible hoses.
23. Remove Power Steering Pump and put it in the area vacated by the air filter housing. Don't forget to disconnect the PS press switch connector.
24. Place crankshaft pulley at TDC. Remove the crankshaft pulley using 22 mm socket. Use a screwdriver through the upper rear access hole in the bellhousing to stop the engine from rotating. DON'T use a chain wrench on the pulley.
25. Remove the plastic timing covers. Being careful to break the bolts loose. If you live in a rust prone area, soak all of these bolts/nuts with penetrating oil for few days.
26. Using the same screwdriver to stop the engine from rotating, loosen the two camshaft bolts using 17mm socket. I think it's easier to do this in the car then to do it on an engine stand due to wobbly and instability. YMMV.
27. Remove starter solenoid single connector.
28. Remove one vacuum line (by air cleaner) from the VSV at the passenger fender.
29. Disconnect brake booster vac line (by starter)
30. Remove hose from PCV Valve
31. Disconnect two large Grey and one Brown connector from the engine.
32. Disconnect main harness (by O2 sensor)
33. Disconnect O2 sensor. Leave O2 sensors screwed into the exhaust pipe.
34. Disconnect exhaust pipe at the exh manifold and toward the middle of the car and totally remove it. Need to do this for tranny removal.
35. Disconnect rear engine mount (pitch stopper) bracket and move out of the way.
36. Remove the Throttle body from the intake. By doing this, you give yourself more wiggle room. If you're planning to reuse the gasket, carefully remove it.
37. Remove drive plate to torque converter nuts (four 12mm bolts). I accessed them through the hole in the upper rear of the engine, toward the passenger side.
38. Disconnect two lower engine mounts by removing the nuts.
39. Remove the nuts and bolts that hold the engine to the tranny bell housing. All are 14 mm.
  • Remove the front axle shafts from the transaxle
  • Raise one tire off the ramps by using a floor jack under the lower A arm just enough to be able to spin the wheel freely
  • Find the tension pin and drive it out with a punch
  • Mark the location of the A arm in relation to the body. Disconnect the three bolts that hold the lower A arm to the body and push the wheel out slightly.
  • Pull the axle shafts out of the transaxle
  • Reattach the lower A arm to the body
  • Repeat for the other side
40. By removing the half shafts out of the way, you can now easily remove the four lower tranny to engine bolts w/o any drama. This extra ten minutes of work will save a lot of frustration for these four bolt access.
41. Disconnect the starter and move it out of the way.
42. Connect lifting chain to the front and rear engine lifting eyes.
43. Lift engine slightly to check for any obstructions.
44. Lift engine until the motor mount bolt clear the bolt holes.
45. Separate the engine from tranny bellhousing by shaking the engine or using a flat head or similar prying tool. If not separating, then check to make sure that you've removed all bolts and two nuts. I missed two bolts that were the near the top but hidden under brackets.
46. Push the torque converter back by using a screwdriver through the rear access hole on top of the bell housing.
47. Lift engine out slowly and carefully


Total elapsed time for actual engine removal: 5 hours
All hardware were broken loose manually then spun off using air ratchet. Impact were used to remove the tranny to engine bolts and the exhaust bolts. This is a NM vehicle so zero rust was encountered during this process.

Below are some pics of the engine bay looks like after the engine has been pulled out.
__________________
If it ain't broken it, doesn't have enough features!!!

'92 SVX LSL
'03 4Runner
'96 FZJ80 Landcruiser
'90 Mercedes 300E
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:04 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
© 2001-2015 SVX World Network
(208)-906-1122