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#1
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dash lights
All my dash lights go on when I'm at a stop. The car sometimes shuts down. Sometimes it stays on. New alternator, new battery, cleaned the MAF, no more codes. What else could it be?
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#2
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Quote:
Are you indicating by, “when I'm at a stop”, that this only happens when the engine is idling? N.B. New alternator, does not necessarily indicate a perfect alternator and this could be your problem.
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Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! |
#3
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I agree with number 3. The way the wiring goes, if your alternator is not pulling its share, the idiot light extravaganza arrives for your viewing pleasure.
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Disclaimer: The above post is on the internet. |
#4
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I never had an issue until a remote start was installed. The car would stall while driving with no dummy lights going on. I checked the codes, and came up with no.23 (abnormal voltage from air flow sensor). I cleaned the sensor and I cleared the memory. I also noticed the voltage was going up and down. I have a volt meter hard wired in the car. I had the alternator checked and it was bad. I put in a new (reman) alternator and it reads normal. Now the dummy lights go on at stops while at idle. The strange thing is the car shuts down sometimes but stays running other times with the lights on. No code comes up. Could a bad connection to the ignition wire do this? Stumped.
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#5
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I vote on the alt being a chump too. Where is your volt meter hooked up? Any possible loose or corroded connections? I have had issues with multiple bad alternators from Autozone. After the fourth bad alternator they wouldn't warranty it (lifetime warranty my butt) so an expensive NAPA alternator was put on and all was better. With the alternator being so easy to swap on the SVX I would be inclined to just try a different one.
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"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." Benjamin Franklin blk 92' LSL w/ average mods pics here http://s306.photobucket.com/albums/nn277/yourconfused/ Cash68: "Hmm, I wouldn't brag about beating Escorts. That's like saying you tricked a retarded person." |
#6
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I'm going to have my alternator checked. Here is another observation I noticed: When I start the car with the key and the heat on high, the voltage reads 13.7 then drops to 12.7. When I start the car with the remote and the heat on high, the voltage reads 13.2 then drops to 11.5 and shuts down. ??????????????????
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#7
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Everything checks out OK except for the battery, it is low due to the previous alternator. It's on charge now and I'll keep everyone updated. Thanks for all your responses.
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#8
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Quote:
There is no reason for a low battery to cause the faults you have described, unless it has some strange intermittent internal fault. On the basis of logic it would seem likely that you have two separate faults. An alternator fault and a fault caused as a result of the installation of the remote start set up.
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Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! |
#9
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P.S.: Why would you start a car with the heat on high? |
#10
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I was just testing and trying things out. Normally I keep the heat low. I charged the battery all night and it read over 13V. Once I started the car, idled it, shut it down, the Voltage dropped back down to 12.3? Every time I start the car the voltage starts at a low 12V then it shoots up above 14V. The alternator is doing it's job but it seems the battery is not holding the charge. I still have a warranty on the battery and the remote installer is coming over next Saturday.
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#11
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Quote:
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Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! |
#12
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I went to two local shops to test the battery and they both said the battery is low. As I said before, the battery was charged all night and I drove the car for an hour. That is why I believe the battery is not holding the charge. Maybe one of the cells are weak?
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#13
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Quote:
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Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! |
#14
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Sorry Trevor, here is a simple break down.
1) I had a remote start installed. 2) All my dash lights would come on and the car stalls. 3) I got code #23, I cleaned the sensor and I cleared the memory. 4) All seemed fine, no more stalling. 5) Car starts normal with the key but has a hard time with the remote. 6) I noticed the battery voltage would go up and down. 7) I had the alternator checked and had it replaced. 8) All seemed fine, voltage was back to normal. 9) All my dash lights come on again. Sometimes the car stalls, sometimes it doesn't. 10) This time No codes come up. 11) I had the car checked twice and the alternator was fine but the battery was low even after a full charge. |
#15
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Referring to point (11).
“Fine” after what sort of test? As I have explained the output could be acceptable, but a single diode could be faulty. As a result AC present on line would bypass the sneak circuit blocking diodes incorporated in the trouble lamp circuit. This situation, after alleged testing, has been reported previously. “Low” to what extent? What sort of test was carried out? Test under load, specific gravity of the electrolyte tested? How could a battery which appears to start the engine without a problem, or for that matter even a low or bad battery, cause the problems you have reported? I say again --- "On the basis of logic it would seem likely that you have two separate faults. An alternator fault and a fault caused as a result of the installation of the remote start set up." I could be wrong, but the logic applied is accurate.
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Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! |
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