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  #76  
Old 06-15-2018, 08:12 PM
RisingPhoenix RisingPhoenix is offline
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Lightbulb Re: Initial hesitation

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Originally Posted by knight'92 View Post
and my hesitation is so bad in the morning/night after work
that it doesnt matter if you are giving it 10% or 100% throttle
it just will only go about 10 mph...
Clean Mass Air Flow meter with MAF cleaner and take off Airbox and clean throttle body. Use carburetor cleaner for throttle body and MAF cleaner on connectors/MAF. I had the same thing happen to me a long time ago.
Your MAP could be fouling also (happened on my 1992 SVX at 160,000 miles) so Airbox needs to come off (so you can plug the MAP wires back in..on firewall) spray connectors vigorously (with MAF cleaner) in connector housing and plug in, reconnect plugs after 5 minutes - To make sure MAF cleaner has completely dried off , then the fun part of reconnecting that Air Box.

Last edited by RisingPhoenix; 06-15-2018 at 08:56 PM. Reason: Add
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  #77  
Old 06-16-2018, 05:43 PM
svx1999 svx1999 is offline
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Re: Initial hesitation

my 92 did this for EVER. upon start, best to let it warm up or it would have a hesitant throttle response. Park it in a garage and it was not near as bad. It's been answered already. I would clean the MAF connections and MAF itself and apply some Stabliant 22a on the connections. Actually, use that on ALL electrical connections. The wave you speak of kinda clears once it warms up and always ran the AC. mine would drop a lot lower at idle than 2100. As you know the SVX idles rather low. 2100 would be high to me. It's just a cold natured car. takes it a minute to get its bearings. but clean everything throttle body, plate, Maf, check the 02's. and honestly I had my injectors cleaned and that made a difference as in like night and day difference. Power light would come on with just a light tap. but part of my service included fogging out the entire intake. 17 years and over 100k miles. that first start hesitation, if you went to just start and go, was always there. There can be other issues with grounds or funky signals and I think that's possibly part of it till things warm up so TREAT every connection with stabilant 22. It's your friend you can find it online or you can order it from any VW dealer. runs about 50$.

May you have many years and many miles of fun. I sure miss mine.
SVX1999

Ryan
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  #78  
Old 06-16-2018, 05:50 PM
RisingPhoenix RisingPhoenix is offline
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Re: Initial hesitation

WOW!! I found the source to the rough idle/RPM oscillation during idle..only when my car is idling though. While SVX is running I unplugged the inlet on my charcoal canister and it sucks air into the manifold really well..is this normal??? Anyways, when I place my finger over the inlet hose opening..car idles PERFECTLY. Hmm. To further check my hypothesis the tiny hose (outlet hose, I think?) on the back of the intake I removed...car wants to die when it's off....BUT, when I place my finger over the steel connector....the car regains it's idle and runs smooth as glass.
What could this be?? A faulty EGR valve or something??
So the poor idle/oscillating RPMs are caused by vacuum that is not working right somewhere...
Is my charcoal canister gone TITS UP?? Haha
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  #79  
Old 06-16-2018, 05:59 PM
svx1999 svx1999 is offline
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Re: Initial hesitation

If it's having trouble starting I'd change the fuel filter and see about having the injectors cleaned and intake fogged out. takes about 30 mins if they got the right setup. Then start looking at vacuum lines for leaks. Sensors and so forth. PCV. depending on age plugs can also be a small issue. Go back with what the SVX calls for which was NGK. only had to change mine once in all the years I had it. They are good for about 80k max but they will be worn slap out by then. If I'm recalling right I think book calls for those to be changed every 60k. which would be about accurate with what I saw. I know there are other plugs but honestly your not going to get a whole lot of bang for what you'll spend. so I just stick to what I know works. ( usually cheaper in the long run ) as we all know SVX loves your wallet and getting cozy with it. but it's worth it.

May you have many years of fun and many miles..
Ryan
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  #80  
Old 06-16-2018, 06:13 PM
RisingPhoenix RisingPhoenix is offline
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Question Re: Initial hesitation

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Originally Posted by svx1999 View Post
If it's having trouble starting I'd change the fuel filter and see about having the injectors cleaned and intake fogged out. takes about 30 mins if they got the right setup. Then start looking at vacuum lines for leaks. Sensors and so forth. PCV. depending on age plugs can also be a small issue. Go back with what the SVX calls for which was NGK. only had to change mine once in all the years I had it. They are good for about 80k max but they will be worn slap out by then. If I'm recalling right I think book calls for those to be changed every 60k. which would be about accurate with what I saw. I know there are other plugs but honestly your not going to get a whole lot of bang for what you'll spend. so I just stick to what I know works. ( usually cheaper in the long run ) as we all know SVX loves your wallet and getting cozy with it. but it's worth it.

May you have many years of fun and many miles..
Ryan
Hey Ryan, thanks for the info but are you replying to my post? I replaced my spark plugs with the factory Subaru spark plugs at between 110,000 - 160,000 miles and the originals replaced were still in perfect working condition. My car runs awesome down the road so I know it's fairly sound mechanically. It seems that I may have a vacuum leak or faulty valve somewhere in the EGR system somewhere though that is making it idle rough and the RPMs to oscillate only when it's warmed up.
I fixed my starting issue last week...it was the wire going from my negative battery post to underneath the battery where it terminates/grounds to the frame. It starts PERFECT now.

Last edited by RisingPhoenix; 06-16-2018 at 06:17 PM. Reason: Start issue...
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  #81  
Old 06-16-2018, 06:19 PM
svx1999 svx1999 is offline
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Re: Initial hesitation

You'll have to forgive me it's been a hot min since I read much on the SVX.
But I do recall the canister develops cracks or leaks over time. and yes it's another source of the elusive surging idle. more or less sounds like you have a leak somewhere and You've found it. there's also an Iris valve buried in the intake that causes issues when dirty. but since it's been so long since I looked at how things were routed I'd say look up some of the scans of the technical manual of intake and vacuum routing. I know there are MANY posts covering the EGR, and Canister as well as lines. but right now my knowledge of what lines go where and how they are routed is a bit limited. Be careful with some as they get VERY brittle. pcv is buried in the middle plenum under the decal plate and has a shaped hose, easiest fix ( heater hose and be done. the rest of the connections on the valve covers and other ports just too easy to grab a bulk cut of silicone. might be easier. I'd also post on the facebook pages for the group as many members are active. I've kinda been out of the game since I lost mine.

But yeah I recall some info on the canister more or less goes bad and cracks form around it. Biggest demon with this car is things just get OLD brittle and rot. Rubber rot plastic hardens and snaps.

Ryan
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  #82  
Old 06-16-2018, 07:49 PM
RisingPhoenix RisingPhoenix is offline
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Re: Initial hesitation

Thanks Ryan. I sure hope it's just the canister for a simple fix. Another question I have for you though: Would air leaks in this canister cause a drop in P.S.I. pressure in my gas tank also?
Its obvious that the poor idle started the same time I lost P.S.I. tank pressure just months ago.

Just a fly-by question: Would coating the outside of the charcoal canister with RV sealant or Flexseal work for a temporary fix? And, do I need to replace the Purge Control Valve also?
Where is this Purge Control Valve located?
To add, yes I did replace the Valve Cover hoses in 2001 (about) with the original SVX OEM factory hoses (breather hoses) since the old ones on the car were cracked and hard as a rock. All good there!!
Upon further thought, I should be able to plug off the RETURN? hose to the charcoal canister to get my idle working normally without any issues. Since I'd still have that inlet plugged into my charcoal canister, the fumes should burn off in the engine just as efficiently in my view.

Last edited by RisingPhoenix; 06-17-2018 at 07:38 AM. Reason: Would this work?
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  #83  
Old 06-17-2018, 06:55 AM
RisingPhoenix RisingPhoenix is offline
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Re: Initial hesitation

Quote:
Originally Posted by svx1999 View Post
You'll have to forgive me it's been a hot min since I read much on the SVX.
But I do recall the canister develops cracks or leaks over time. and yes it's another source of the elusive surging idle. more or less sounds like you have a leak somewhere and You've found it. there's also an Iris valve buried in the intake that causes issues when dirty. but since it's been so long since I looked at how things were routed I'd say look up some of the scans of the technical manual of intake and vacuum routing. I know there are MANY posts covering the EGR, and Canister as well as lines. but right now my knowledge of what lines go where and how they are routed is a bit limited. Be careful with some as they get VERY brittle. pcv is buried in the middle plenum under the decal plate and has a shaped hose, easiest fix ( heater hose and be done. the rest of the connections on the valve covers and other ports just too easy to grab a bulk cut of silicone. might be easier. I'd also post on the facebook pages for the group as many members are active. I've kinda been out of the game since I lost mine.

But yeah I recall some info on the canister more or less goes bad and cracks form around it. Biggest demon with this car is things just get OLD brittle and rot. Rubber rot plastic hardens and snaps.

Ryan
I hear that replacing that PCV Valve is tricky. My dipstick usually pops up a quarter inch after driving 10 miles so someday I'll find a smart mechanic that will do it without taking off the Plenum manifold.
Taking off that Plenum is costly since the intake gaskets have to be replaced each time and carefully re torqued by a skilled professional.
IDLE FIXED!! So, I made me a silicone plug using bathroom white caulking sealer (made by GE- 100% Silicone) and twisted it into the return (suction) side of the charcoal canister hose, taped it on securely with electrical tape and let it sit on top of canister, started car (VERY strong start, it was instant) barely any blue smoke from the tailpipe this time and let it warm up. PERFECT idle. Drove my awesome 1992 SVX with 298,000 miles on it for about 5 miles, EXCELLENT power, very smooth, no power drag in any RPM or car speed. VERY happy.
I suspect my Purge Control Valve is M.I.A. though plugging the return line seems to bypass it.
OH, haha. No surges on (getting less as I drive it) on acceleration anymore..very pleasant ride now. ��
UPDATE: My CHECK ENGINE light no longer turns on/off like Casper The Ghost on a 'spook mission' ��

Last edited by RisingPhoenix; 06-17-2018 at 02:23 PM. Reason: Awesome!!! Idle fixed!!
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  #84  
Old 06-30-2018, 08:55 PM
RisingPhoenix RisingPhoenix is offline
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Thumbs up Re: Initial hesitation

Quote:
Originally Posted by n00b on demand View Post
Hey spear...clean the throttle body and intake first and see if that makes a difference.
Huh. I just went out to my car today and sprayed a 1\4 th can of CRC throttle body cleaner on the throttle cables/springs (and that Secondary with the worn sheath) and VAVOOOOOM!!!!!!!!!!!!! that slightly rough idle was GONE aaand the odd Spike on engine warmup (was bothering me the most) also gone...very smooth now.
Now I just need to borrow from someone to buy a new Secondary throttle cable. (The short cable hooked up to the vacuum thing on the firewall) ����

I'm sure those cables aren't cheap.
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  #85  
Old 07-03-2018, 01:54 PM
92 SVX 92 SVX is offline
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Re: Initial hesitation

Quote:
Originally Posted by RisingPhoenix View Post
Huh. I just went out to my car today and sprayed a 1\4 th can of CRC throttle body cleaner on the throttle cables/springs (and that Secondary with the worn sheath) and VAVOOOOOM!!!!!!!!!!!!! that slightly rough idle was GONE aaand the odd Spike on engine warmup (was bothering me the most) also gone...very smooth now.
Now I just need to borrow from someone to buy a new Secondary throttle cable. (The short cable hooked up to the vacuum thing on the firewall) ����

I'm sure those cables aren't cheap.
or even available new....... just an fyi (incase you don't know) that short cable going to the firewall is the cruise control.
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