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#1
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Knock Sensor question
After talking tonight and after letting Evil 1 drive my car I have a question.
If my knock sensors are reading vibrations from the blower and causing the engine to pull timing what prevents me from disconnecting them? I would throw a CEL obviously. I do know that I am creating no knock in my current condition. Jim ( evil 1) was saying that he always pulled the knock sensors on the cars he built to prevent them from inappropriately pulling timing.
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Former: 1994 Barcelona Red(x2), 1995 Brilliant Red, 1992 Liquid Silver, 1992 Ebony(x2), 1992 Pearl White (x2) Current: 2017 Ford Raptor 2017 Kawasaki KLR 1995 Guards Red Carrera 1995 Spec-ish Miata - track car 1957 CJ-5 |
#2
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given that they could potentially save your engine in the event that it is actually experiencing knock, why not try relocating them to a different part of the engine? what makes you think that the s/c is imparting a load on the engine block that resembles a "knock"?
-Bill
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Retired NASA Rocket Scientist Most famous NASA "Child" - OSIRIS-REx delivered samples from asteroid BENNU to Earth in Sept. 2023 Center Network Member #989 '92 Fully caged, 5 speed, waiting for its fully built EG33 '92 "Test Mule", 4:44 Auto, JDM 4:44 Rear Diff with Mech LSD, Tuned headers, Full one-off suspension '92(?) Laguna, 6 spd and other stuff (still at OT's place) My Locker |
#3
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Because of their proximity to the blower and the amount of noise the blower makes....
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Former: 1994 Barcelona Red(x2), 1995 Brilliant Red, 1992 Liquid Silver, 1992 Ebony(x2), 1992 Pearl White (x2) Current: 2017 Ford Raptor 2017 Kawasaki KLR 1995 Guards Red Carrera 1995 Spec-ish Miata - track car 1957 CJ-5 |
#4
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Also... I dont recommend ANYONE pulling the knock sensors unless they are on the safe side of their tune and monitor the engine VERY closely.
I have done it on almost all of my turbo engines because the ECU was VERY aggressive about pulling timing and the sensoers were bad about picking up a false positive on detonation. Relocating them also works, but as I am still learning about the SVX I cant offer an alternative location to mount them. However, that being said... I have pulled/disconnected them and picked up 30+ whp on a daily driver pushing 25 psi... that showed no sign of detonation when the engine was pulled down to upgrade the head gasket in anticipation of more power. Jim
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1992 Dark Teal LS-L with 4.44 swap. NC Plate "EVIL I" *Dont Fear the GEAR* 1977 Ford Pinto baby blue with 79,000 miles |
#5
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There should be no reason for the knock sensors to react to noise from a blower. A weight is incorporated so that they are not sensitive to anything even remotely within the audio frequency range. Furthermore they a mounted to a large mass which would damp out extraneous indirect vibrations.
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Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! |
#6
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I don't know how advanced the ECU is on an SVX, but most newer cars, if the ECU detects knock, it ignores it unless it occurs within a window around the ignition pulse, in order to prevent false signals from the knock sensor from affecting engine performance.
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1992 SVX LS-L #1222 Pearl White 1987 GL Turbo wagon, 5 lug conversion, D/R 5 speed (Rice killer) 1992 Dodge Ram 4x4 diesel (car hauler) 1968 Dodge Polara convertible (Camaro killer) 1990 Toyota Corolla FWD auto (330,000 mile grocery getter) 1986 VW Jetta |
#7
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Quote:
Graham had this problem with his Eaton blower. The ECU was pulling timing in a bad way. Initially we thought it was actual detonation. We discussed it with Lan. Some of the theories even included surface imperfections in the ceramic coating on the head contributing to localised hot spots. Bear in mind most or probably all of the US installations were using stock compression ratio. Graham was using a built engine with CR at 8.0 to 1. The answer was more mundane. It was mechanical vibration picked up by the sensors as sicksubie and Evil One have noticed and deduced. The actual source of the vibration that the sensors were "hearing" was the drive pulley for the blower. It had a loose key that we were aware of and eventually fixed. The proof of the pudding was when the installation was put into my Version L, and everything tightened down, no loose pulley. The timing is not being pulled, full power all round. As Trevor asked fellas, will it be possible to substitute more modern knock sensors in place of these piezo ones we currently use? Will the signal range be correct for the ECU to interpret? If this made an improvement in a reduction of false positives and stopped the timing getting pulled, it would be worth the cost of the change. Joe
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Black Betty [Bam a Lam!] '93 UK spec, still languishing Betty Jersey Girl Silver '92 UK [Channel Isles] 40K Jersey Girl @ Mersea Candy Purple Honda Blackbird Plum Dangerous White X2 RVR Mitsubishi 1800GDI. Vantastic 40,000 miles Jersey Girl Last edited by svxistentialist; 11-13-2007 at 06:05 AM. |
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