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  #16  
Old 07-20-2005, 03:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red95svx
Yeah, unfortunately there are several sensors that could cause this.



Dave
And a bad MAF can cause stalling even at highway speeds.




Yes Harvey, I saw your post, but it could not hurt to reiterate...
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  #17  
Old 07-20-2005, 10:00 PM
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And just one more to make you feel better, I ran out of gas the other day too. (but it was in my wagon with a messes up gas gauge and I was right on the exit to a gas station)




Oh yeah it started right up and ran...well...as well as it ever does.
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  #18  
Old 07-21-2005, 10:30 AM
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I didn't run out of gas but with our new prices I just filled the tank with 94 octane costing me $62 (~USD$51)
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  #19  
Old 08-03-2005, 09:17 AM
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So she stalled about 5 times in a few minutes at low speeds

Is there logical order in trying to replace the problem causing sensor?

I was thinking to try the MAF first to see if that fixes it.

Then CAM sensor

Then Crank sensor.

Are replacing any of there really difficult?

Thanks
Tapper
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  #20  
Old 08-04-2005, 08:13 PM
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Well if any of those are bad it should set a code for them. I wouldn't go replacing random sensors to try and fix the problem, it will most likely just drain your wallet and not fix the problem.


It is kinda wierd that it ran fine before it ran out of gas. Does it only stall out when you come to a stop or will it die out when you driving down the road?
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  #21  
Old 08-05-2005, 06:23 AM
red95svx
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Yeah, the lack of a check engine light is weird. My mom's old Legacy ran like crap at low RPM's because of an intake leak. Maybe this is a possibility.

I remember reading once that the fuel pump had a resistor that would vary pump output as RPM's increased. I wonder if your resisitor is bad?





Dave
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  #22  
Old 08-05-2005, 01:01 PM
TapperManor
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I has kinda been motor boating a bit (spradic idle) when cold for a while. (even before running out of gas)

But now it is really bad.

Going down the road, high or low speed,,,.......dies right out. And can also happen just sittin at idle speed. BUT, it always starts back up very easy with a quick turn of the key.

I wish I had a part car (like with my XT6s), but no space for one at the moment.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Subafreak
Well if any of those are bad it should set a code for them. I wouldn't go replacing random sensors to try and fix the problem, it will most likely just drain your wallet and not fix the problem.


It is kinda wierd that it ran fine before it ran out of gas. Does it only stall out when you come to a stop or will it die out when you driving down the road?
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  #23  
Old 08-05-2005, 01:03 PM
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There is no CEL.

On fuelpump, Is this resistor inspectable?

So..............no CEL means there is probaly no stores codes?



Quote:
Originally Posted by red95svx
Yeah, the lack of a check engine light is weird. My mom's old Legacy ran like crap at low RPM's because of an intake leak. Maybe this is a possibility.

I remember reading once that the fuel pump had a resistor that would vary pump output as RPM's increased. I wonder if your resisitor is bad?





Dave
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  #24  
Old 08-05-2005, 02:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TapperManor
There is no CEL.

On fuelpump, Is this resistor inspectable?

So..............no CEL means there is probaly no stores codes?
So it was running just fine before you ran out of gas? It never stalled out on you prior to running out of gas?
Suggest you put a fuel pressure gage in line to see what's happening when it stalls. If the pressure is dropping off prior to the stall then it would point toward the fuel pump being on its way out....
-Bill
p.s. I'd still run the self diagnostic to see if there are any stored codes, even though there is no CEL.
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  #25  
Old 08-06-2005, 05:12 AM
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Yes put a pressure gauge on it.

May be a failing pressure regulator.

Harvey.
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