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  #1  
Old 12-06-2001, 03:47 PM
clearwaterms
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What do they mean by AWD or Tranny binding?

When they say the tranny is binding, what do they mean? Does my car suffer this? The car has a small torque steering problem... It seams like the car doesn't want to shift power to the rear wheels... It was raining last night and when I nailed the gas, it spun the front tires then there was a jerk and the car hooked, it felt like the power transfer to the rear wheels was slightly delayed, Im going to do a external tranny cooler install along with a tranny filter from the local speed shop, getting the biggest one they sell, and bypassing the stock Radiator one. Then Im going to drain the tranny fluid and refill it, how much fluid does it need, what type should i use?
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  #2  
Old 12-06-2001, 11:38 PM
SVXtremist
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Hey There,
Well, I don't know what they mean by "The Tranny is Binding," and I don't know much about cars, but I do know that the SVX has a spot for a FWD fuse under the hood. If the fuse is in, then the car will only drive using the front wheels. You might check to see if that fuse is in. I'm sure you already have but just in case.

Allen
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  #3  
Old 12-07-2001, 06:10 AM
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The car needs a little time to figure out that there's a difference in speed, front to rear, and then apply the appropriate measures to correct. You could also have a problem but the thing to remember is that if you continue to abuse the car like that you [b]will[/] have a problem. That was not the intended use when the car was designed.

Beav
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  #4  
Old 12-07-2001, 06:11 AM
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The binding we refer to is experienced in tight turns and it is a shutter from the rear of the car. It feels like a constant 4 wheel drive truck trying to manuver around a parking lot.

I don't believe that anyone experiences straight line binding, but I don't claim to know everyone either.

When you say "delay" how long are you talking? My car has always had a 1/2 to 3/4 second from the time I nail the gas on snow or rain until the power transfers to the rear.

Doug
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  #5  
Old 12-07-2001, 08:25 AM
EveryShadeofBlue EveryShadeofBlue is offline
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Straight Line Binding

I had a major straight line binding problem. The entire car would vibrate violently if you floored it from a standstill. It was fixed when a new transmission was installed. Up to that point, my dealer claimed with 90% assuredness that it was a $500 wiring harness, which I politely declined to have fixed. Good thing, because you get a new one with a new tranny. Problem solved for just $3,000!

Jeff

P.S. Clearwaterarms: What is the date of manufacture of your car? This seems to be a more common problem with some of the first production months that have original transmissions.
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Last edited by EveryShadeofBlue; 12-07-2001 at 08:29 AM.
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  #6  
Old 12-07-2001, 10:20 AM
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<<I had a major straight line binding problem. >>

I stand corrected. I'm glad you were able to solve it.

Doug
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Black over Claret with 2.5" setback spoiler; 202,000 miles; Mods: B&M Cooler
1994 LSi (4/93)
Bordeaux Pearl; 198,000 miles; Mods: Weight reduction.

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  #7  
Old 12-07-2001, 10:31 AM
clearwaterms
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it's a 92 with a rebuilt tranny and I think i found the problem. I was reading somewhere that if the engine builds RPM's between shifts that the problem is that the tranny needs an adjustment? I need out where that adjustment is and adjust it, because that seems to be the only major problem with the car. The next thing is going to be a tranny flush with a B&M cooler, and a temp gauge, that should happen in the next week or two. The trans is going to get adjusted tommorow or maybe tonight if it only takes a few minutes.
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  #8  
Old 12-07-2001, 01:46 PM
EveryShadeofBlue EveryShadeofBlue is offline
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Ok, when you say "rebuilt" does that mean it's still the original transmission, just modified because it broke once already? That could be key, because some of the flaws the original transmission had may not have been addressed and the binding is still there. Let me know what your date of manufacture is, I'm really curious if there is a trend. The wiring harness in question in mine would not have been replaced in all likelihood if I simply had the transmission rebuilt by Aamco or someone like that.

While a Subaru rebuilt transmission is by no means bulletproof, I would prefer it over having the exisiting transmission rebuilt. There were design changes (subtle, but important) made over the years and that should be addressed in a remanufactured tranny.

Jeff
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  #9  
Old 12-07-2001, 04:29 PM
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I had my last tranny rebuilt in 1995 at a Suby dealership and that harness in question was replaced, I know this because I received the old one when I picked it up. I usually ask to keep replaced parts as proof that they actually change something.

But, I still had binding after that. My build date is 6/91. The binding never went away until I put on the external cooler. I know it makes no sense, but it just vanished after being present for the last 6 years.

Doug
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1992 LS Touring (6/91)
Black over Claret with 2.5" setback spoiler; 202,000 miles; Mods: B&M Cooler
1994 LSi (4/93)
Bordeaux Pearl; 198,000 miles; Mods: Weight reduction.

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  #10  
Old 12-07-2001, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by mohrds
The binding never went away until I put on the external cooler. I know it makes no sense, but it just vanished after being present for the last 6 years.

Doug
That would tend to make me believe that, perhaps, your stock cooler was partially clogged, restricting flow of your fluid and that could've been causing sluggish response to commands from the TCU -- but, then again, I could be wrong.
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  #11  
Old 12-07-2001, 08:45 PM
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I would recommend (only to move beyound MAGGOT status) that you have the transfer pressure measured in the back end of the tranny. If it isn't there the rear wheels aren't going to work.
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  #12  
Old 12-26-2001, 11:15 AM
northernkanuck northernkanuck is offline
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Has anyone tried the technical service bulletin which refers to crushing a noise suppressor in the ECU. The instructions are posted in the Mod Mania section. I know I had what I referred to as a lag and I would get the front tire spin on wet or slippery roads and I don't consider myself an agressive driver. Once I performed the service bulletin the problem was gone (this being done after my local dealer told me he had never heard of this TSB and would not recommend doing this and I would just have to live with the way the car performed). If you haven't tried this look into it , as I remember any members on the old Yahoo site that tried this all had some form of improvement.

Keith
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  #13  
Old 12-30-2001, 11:15 PM
tober76b
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nothernkanuck, you wrote: "I know I had what I referred to as a lag and I would get the front tire spin on wet or slippery roads and I don't consider myself an agressive driver."

did you experience the same sensation as clearwaterms?

clearwaterms wrote: "It was raining last night and when I nailed the gas, it spun the front tires then there was a jerk and the car hooked, it felt like the power transfer to the rear wheels was slightly delayed"

mine '92 does the same thing...often with quite an abrupt clunk/jerk.
i can peel out the front on dry pavement along with wet. they'll usually spin for a little over a second, but i usually let off on the pedal to lessen the clunk.
dry pavement pretty much takes a full-throttle effort, but i spin the wheels on wet pavement at about 3/5 throttle.
in fact, if i punch it to pass someone when the roads are wet, i'll break loose even though i'm already in motion. i've experienced this when the trans downshifts to 1st and 2nd. (and no, i don't have bald tires; however, they aren't aqua treads).

i'm not sure if i've had the ECU mod done, but i can say that my delay before the power kicks in is very minimal---if noticeable at all.
tober
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  #14  
Old 01-01-2002, 04:21 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by mohrds

But, I still had binding after that. My build date is 6/91. The binding never went away until I put on the external cooler. I know it makes no sense, but it just vanished after being present for the last 6 years.

Doug
It DOES make sense Doug, if the flow of ATF to the cooler is restricted the pilot pressure exhausted from C solinoide will build up to apply the transfer clutch and binding will follow.
The flow back from the cooler to the transmission is used to lube the planetary gearset. So binding is the first symptom the next would be planetary gearset failure.
Harvey.
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  #15  
Old 01-01-2002, 05:03 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by tober76b
nothernkanuck, you wrote: "I know I had what I referred to as a lag and I would get the front tire spin on wet or slippery roads and I don't consider myself an agressive driver."

did you experience the same sensation as clearwaterms?

clearwaterms wrote: "It was raining last night and when I nailed the gas, it spun the front tires then there was a jerk and the car hooked, it felt like the power transfer to the rear wheels was slightly delayed"

mine '92 does the same thing...often with quite an abrupt clunk/jerk.
i can peel out the front on dry pavement along with wet. they'll usually spin for a little over a second, but i usually let off on the pedal to lessen the clunk.
dry pavement pretty much takes a full-throttle effort, but i spin the wheels on wet pavement at about 3/5 throttle.
in fact, if i punch it to pass someone when the roads are wet, i'll break loose even though i'm already in motion. i've experienced this when the trans downshifts to 1st and 2nd. (and no, i don't have bald tires; however, they aren't aqua treads).

i'm not sure if i've had the ECU mod done, but i can say that my delay before the power kicks in is very minimal---if noticeable at all.
tober
I don't want to put the curse of the "black jellybean" on anyone
BUT. A delay in engaging the rear drive to the extent that you describe, would be caused by low oil pressure to the rear clutch. The jerk that is felt is due to the way the clutch is operated by the TCU.
A low pressure is fed to the clutch first to slow the front wheels down to the rear wheel speed, before the main pressure is applied. If this low pressure is general or lost through leaks in the sealing rings, the front wheels won't be slowed till the main pressure is applied causing the clunk.
This could be from a number of causes, if there are no other symptoms, it may just be wear in the oil sealing rings, that take the oil from the case into the output shaft to operate the clutch.
As SVX_COMMUTER said a pressure check should show it up.
If this is the case it can be repaired without removing the box, just the rear section.
Harvey.
(ps. if your transmission shows problems, get it looked at rightaway, a small cost now can save heaps later.)
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