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#1
09-09-2005, 02:30 PM
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Bad Ball Joints? How to tell?
I bought some nice Goodyear Assurance tires today and wanted them to do a wheel alignment. They said that both lower ball joints were bad so they need replaced before the alignment. How can I tell if they are bad? I don't drive it hard and I've never noticed any sort of problem.
If I need them, they're about $57 from subaruparts.com. Not to bad considering the Goodyear store wants $75 each and another $75 to install each for a nice total of about $300 plus the alignment. This looks like a do it yourself job. Is it? 
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#2
09-09-2005, 02:37 PM
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Once it is adequately jacked up and the frt wheels removed there is only three nuts/bolts and one nut to remove, per side. A couple good whacks with a BFH and you're ready to install the new joint.
__________________
ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician w/L1. ASE Certified Master Medium/Heavy Truck Technician. Certified EVT (Emergency Vehicle Technician)
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#3
09-09-2005, 02:37 PM
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Yes it can be done yourself. A search will turn up several instructions. There's a couple different techniques and it shouldn't take more than an hour.
__________________
David B. SVXipedia @ SVX-IW.COM -- SVX Information Warehouse 2.0 coming...eventually! Ebony 1992 SVX LS-L 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro 187k miles RIP (Rust In Pieces) 1993 SVX 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro Polyurethane bushings still available!
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#4
09-09-2005, 02:52 PM
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The easiest ball joints I've ever worked with
 Remove the pinch bolt on the steering knuckle first, then use a block of wood and the BFH that Beav mentioned to knock the control arm down. This will pull the joint out of the knuckle. Once the arm is down it is 3 easy nuts/bolts and away you go
__________________
Dave - 03 Baja - 92 SVX - 86 Brat - 08 OB 3.0
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#5
09-09-2005, 03:29 PM
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Forego the wood block. The ball joint stud is tapered, as is the hole it passes through. A couple good whacks on the side of the steering knuckle (the part the hole resides in) will break the interference fit of the tapered stud/hole and release the joint.
p.s. "a good whack" is best delivered by a 3# hammer with as much force as you can muster while keeping control of its landing area. EDIT: ooops... it has been so long since I've had to separate the stud end that I forget whether or not it uses a pinch bolt or tapered stud. If it uses a pinch bolt proceed with the wood block, and my apologies.
__________________
ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician w/L1. ASE Certified Master Medium/Heavy Truck Technician. Certified EVT (Emergency Vehicle Technician) Last edited by Beav; 09-09-2005 at 11:44 PM.
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#6
09-09-2005, 08:03 PM
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Make sure to check them first. Alot of those stores will tell you stuff like that just to get out of doing the free alignment.
__________________
92 SVX #772 140k 6speed, ECU Tune stage II, Koni/Ground control, 3,270lbs. 91 Legacy Turbo 5spd. FMIC, crappy stock turbo, ACT clutch. 78 BRAT (New toy) (Soon to be EJ22T powered) 90 240 SX. RB25 powered!! DRIFT!!!111!!! (GF's car) To many cars to spend time on teh web!
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#7
09-23-2005, 07:13 AM
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Driver's side ball joint just completed. Not too bad. The stud is not tapered. Loosen the pinch bolt, then a wooden block and the BFH knock it loose. Thanks for the advice everyone. After that you can remove the 3 mounting bolts and pull out the bad boy.
Just one question..... How do you know if the stud on the new one is in far enough? (THis should get some interesting responses). Should the rubber seal be smashed?
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