Twin Turbo EG33 Build - cozykat

[BackWoodsBob]

you know what they say, excuses are like ass-holes, everyone has one and they all stink!

[cozykat]

Well, I've been quiet but my new years resolution was to get this baby done. So I have been working on one aspect or another of my project for the last few weeks.

I started setting up to install accessories and then decided that I since I've dragged it out this long, I might as well clean this engine up along with the hard lines. (If anyone is curious, for this process I used KBS Coatings product line: AquaClean (Degreaser/Paint prep), Rust Blaster (& etcher), Rust Seal Primer, BlackTop Chassis paint, and MotorCoater)

engine before:


engine after:


Last friday a bunch of bolts I was waiting on arrived so I'm FINALLY moving forward with assembly:


misc parts:
(get this iris o-ring from OT)

This will either be a good looking engine or the prettiest coffee table ever.. I'm ok with that.

Also, I just acquired STeeL25T's Hydra EMS so I need to tinker with it to figure out how it works.

[SVXRide]

Marisa,

Outstanding documentation! Will you be fabricating brackets to hold the turbos? Any porting to the heads and intake/stacks prior to painting?

Cheers,
Bill

[STeeL25T]

Cleanest engine I've ever seen O_O

[cozykat]

Originally Posted by SVXRide

Marisa,

Outstanding documentation! Will you be fabricating brackets to hold the turbos? Any porting to the heads and intake/stacks prior to painting?

Cheers,
Bill

Thanks Bill!
I'm sending my intake manifold to GrimmSpeed to get it PnP (Thanks to Matt's autocross GS sponsorship winnings, it's not costing much out of pocket). The only down side is that they have a 5 week lead time - and was hoping to have this done by Reading. The intake manifold is all sorts of squirrelly inside but the intake stacks look okay to me so I'll leave them alone. I plan on getting the exhaust manifolds PnP sometime later. I'm currently spending money on new hoses and bolts - which seem like a small cost but altogether added up to over $500 even with discounts. I said "I'll order any hose that looks like a L or S from Subaru" which apparently applies to every hose under the intake!
I've also been spending time searching through storage bins because I've hidden away new parts over the years which I can use now.

Originally Posted by STeeL25T

Cleanest engine I've ever seen O_O

Thanks Jonathan! It took me a long time to clean all the sections and misc parts.
My garage floor is littered with cleaners, paint, and parts.. It looks like several SVXs blew up in there..

[Scoobyru]

Originally Posted by cozykat

Well, I've been quiet but my new years resolution was to get this baby done. So I have been working on one aspect or another of my project for the last few weeks.

I started setting up to install accessories and then decided that I since I've dragged it out this long, I might as well clean this engine up along with the hard lines. (If anyone is curious, for this process I used KBS Coatings product line: AquaClean (Degreaser/Paint prep), Rust Blaster (& etcher), Rust Seal Primer, BlackTop Chassis paint, and MotorCoater)

engine before:


engine after:


Last friday a bunch of bolts I was waiting on arrived so I'm FINALLY moving forward with assembly:


misc parts:


This will either be a good looking engine or the prettiest coffee table ever.. I'm ok with that.

Also, I just acquired STeeL25T's Hydra EMS so I need to tinker with it to figure out how it works.

Curious to see what this ends up putting down for power. very interested...

[cozykat]

Turtle update:
Just waiting for my collector & intake manifolds to return and preparing the next parts to install (seems I have about 10 small parts I still need to order). I shifted my attention on the Foz this past weekend but I plan on installing the Hydra ems in the SVX tonight - keeping fingers crossed nothing makes a fizzle sound. Also think I found a tuner for it once everything comes together.

Then my next SVX tasks will be replacing bulbs (my dash lights decided to go out), swapping trunks and fitting/installing the JDM wing, replica bumper, and side skirts. Once the engine is done and verified running, I'll be pulling it back out momentarily to get the engine bay re-sprayed and the whole car repainted. The last clear coat was applied poorly and after they "fixed it" with a polishing -> it's all but flown away with the wind as the polishing revealed all the pinholes in the clear. In anticipation of the paint job, I've already purchased most of the door/window weatherstripping and seals - just need the rear windows/windshield.

p.s. If anyone is going to the autocross event in Blytheville, Arkansas this weekend - see you there! Matt will be driving his BRZ.

p.p.s. I can't believe it's late-March already.. WTH!

[SVXRide]

Marisa,

A strong suggestion is to buy at least one (perhaps 2) AEM widebands and get them installed now all the way up to the point of screwing in their sensors (which means you'll need to figure out where to weld in the bungs for the sensors). This is the only way you'll get a really accurate tune - even more important when you install the turbos!

Great to see everything coming together!!

Bill

[Tireiron]

Instead of AEM widebands, I would recommend running the wideband O2 for the Hydra. The integrated wideband will make tuning that much easier.

[SVXRide]

Originally Posted by Tireiron

Instead of AEM widebands, I would recommend running the wideband O2 for the Hydra. The integrated wideband will make tuning that much easier.

Tireiron,

I agree, with the caveat that the Hydra widebands are considerably more expensive than AEM units....

Cheers,
Bill

[cozykat]

Thanks guys!

The Hydra, from STeeL25T, came with the wideband kit so it maybe all I need.

I'm currently trying to remember if there is anything special to removing the suede piece under the steering wheel.

[Gamesy]

There's a screw on the backside you'll need to go from underneath

[LetItSnow]

Make sure that the MAP hose doesn't get crimped or bent backward on itself when you mount the Hydra! With the limited space under there, it can be challenging to avoid.

[cozykat]

Originally Posted by Gamesy

There's a screw on the backside you'll need to go from underneath

Thanks. It was the screw behind the side view mirror control/parking button that caught me - I knew there was a hidden screw but it was the "where" I couldn't recall. I finally had to admit that my memory isn't so great and went inside to read the manual before I broke anything.

Originally Posted by LetItSnow

Make sure that the MAP hose doesn't get crimped or bent backward on itself when you mount the Hydra! With the limited space under there, it can be challenging to avoid.

Yup, I'll be sure to watch out for that. I need to buy replacement hose but was thinking about the cramped space while looking behind the dash. Currently, I am just reading through the Hydra documentation and ensuring proper communication between PC to Hydra and Hydra to SVX. (so far so good)

[YourConfused]

Originally Posted by cozykat

I'm currently trying to remember if there is anything special to removing the suede piece under the steering wheel.

Your memory is bad. You should replace it asap.