heater problem

[dragoontwo]

not in the overflow tank, in the radiator itself....

[snofrek]

Originally Posted by dragoontwo

not in the overflow tank, in the radiator itself....

o, actually no i havent checked that lately....

[kwren]

If you have coolant in the overflow tank chances are that the radiator also is full. When the engine is cool, the coolant should be right to the top in the radiator when you remove the radiator cap. (for safety) Wouldn’t advise removing it when hot. Chances of a clogged heater core, if the coolant looks good, are nil. I am unfamiliar with the heater control system, but haven’t heard of a bad control. There just about has to be something that restricts the flow of coolant through the heater core and lets it through when called for by the control system. The control regulates the opening and closing of the bafles that direct the airflow to the different vents. I thing the air conditioner is even involved in the heat cycle to help control the humidity, Have you tried just using the defroster? If not, try it on defrost with the fan set to hi and see what happens, noting the air temp and airflow. Also set the temp down to about 60 and see if the air flows through the air conditioning vents. Guess the car would need to be in a warm enough place for the control th think you wanted it colder.
Good luck with the project.
Keith

[snofrek]

Originally Posted by kwren

If you have coolant in the overflow tank chances are that the radiator also is full. When the engine is cool, the coolant should be right to the top in the radiator when you remove the radiator cap. (for safety) Wouldn’t advise removing it when hot. Chances of a clogged heater core, if the coolant looks good, are nil. I am unfamiliar with the heater control system, but haven’t heard of a bad control. There just about has to be something that restricts the flow of coolant through the heater core and lets it through when called for by the control system. The control regulates the opening and closing of the bafles that direct the airflow to the different vents. I thing the air conditioner is even involved in the heat cycle to help control the humidity, Have you tried just using the defroster? If not, try it on defrost with the fan set to hi and see what happens, noting the air temp and airflow. Also set the temp down to about 60 and see if the air flows through the air conditioning vents. Guess the car would need to be in a warm enough place for the control th think you wanted it colder.
Good luck with the project.
Keith

it does the same thing in defrost, i use it all the time cuz of the snow and ice. ive tryed all the setting, but nothing changes. when i was driving it back from Arizona, to where i live in Idaho, i had did it have it about 72 and the fan did slow down and speed up every once in awhile, so it was regulating the temp at 72, but if i try any higher it just runs all the time and doesnt get very warm.... hopefully that helps a little!

[crazyhorse]

One more question. Does your temp guage run mid-scale? IE: is the needle almost level?

If the car isn't getting fully up to temp, the heat won't work so well. If it doesn't get up to mid-scale, I'd say the previous owner installed a colder T-stat. In AZ that's a common practice to keep the engine cool in +100deg F temps.

[snofrek]

Originally Posted by crazyhorse

One more question. Does your temp guage run mid-scale? IE: is the needle almost level?

If the car isn't getting fully up to temp, the heat won't work so well. If it doesn't get up to mid-scale, I'd say the previous owner installed a colder T-stat. In AZ that's a common practice to keep the engine cool in +100deg F temps.

ya, it does run at mid-scale...

[snofrek]

ok so i ran a diagnostics test on my heater and what #'s
popped up where 13 and 15.... it said that 13 was normal if the sun load light sensor didnt have the minimum amount of light...... and 15 says that the refrigerant temp sensor is open? so what does this mean, where is this sensor, and how do i fix it??? thanks

Tom

[paulmeisterpk]

My heat wouldn't get warm in my car when I first bought it. What I found was that there is a little servo motor underneath the center-passenger side of the dash. The bolts that held the motor to the bracket were missing and the servo motor was spinning, instead of moving the linkages to open the doors to the heater core. Your motor may be burned out or missing bolts as mine was. Just a thought.

[snofrek]

Originally Posted by paulmeisterpk

My heat wouldn't get warm in my car when I first bought it. What I found was that there is a little servo motor underneath the center-passenger side of the dash. The bolts that held the motor to the bracket were missing and the servo motor was spinning, instead of moving the linkages to open the doors to the heater core. Your motor may be burned out or missing bolts as mine was. Just a thought.

sweet, thanx man, ill check it out!

[paulmeisterpk]

Originally Posted by snofrek

sweet, thanx man, ill check it out!

The motor moves the linkages when you go from cold to hot or vice versa on your digital temp selector. I just ran mine back and forth from 65 to 85 degrees to make sure the linkages were moving, and found the motor to be moving instead.

[snofrek]

Originally Posted by paulmeisterpk

The motor moves the linkages when you go from cold to hot or vice versa on your digital temp selector. I just ran mine back and forth from 65 to 85 degrees to make sure the linkages were moving, and found the motor to be moving instead.

ya my works, sooooo anything else?

[Suby Fan]

Originally Posted by snofrek

ya my works, sooooo anything else?

Ok so to recap...

Coolent level is ok both in the radiator and the and the bottle?

Your blend door motor works fine both mechanicly and electricly

Aswell as the mode control motor

No codes being stored in climate control unit pertaining to your problem

At this point it sounds like a blocked heater core. A heater core flush is required. remove both the coolent hoses on the passenger side of the car going into the firewall and stick a hose on one end at a time. Flush the heater core and untill you just see water coming out then refill your radiator with pure antifreeze (to compinsate for the pure water in the heater core) start and report results

[budbaer]

When the engine is cool, remove the radiator cap and start the car. Let the car run at operating temp for several minutes with the heater on 85 and the blower on high. It could be an air pocket in the heater core. If there is air in the heater core this will force it out and the coolant level in the radiator will go down. Then you just have to add coolant to the radiator and your now toasty warm or sweating your butt off if you still keep it at 85.

[snofrek]

Originally Posted by Suby Fan

Ok so to recap...

Coolent level is ok both in the radiator and the and the bottle?

Your blend door motor works fine both mechanicly and electricly

Aswell as the mode control motor

No codes being stored in climate control unit pertaining to your problem

At this point it sounds like a blocked heater core. A heater core flush is required. remove both the coolent hoses on the passenger side of the car going into the firewall and stick a hose on one end at a time. Flush the heater core and untill you just see water coming out then refill your radiator with pure antifreeze (to compinsate for the pure water in the heater core) start and report results

there is a code that comes up, its #15! i will try out the heater core flush next week as i will be putting in a tranny so ill just do it when i do that! but let me know how to fix the problem that is code 15! thanx

Tom