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  #1  
Old 10-07-2007, 09:36 PM
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BeneathNorthernSkys BeneathNorthernSkys is offline
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Svx Nightmare!

ok, so now I know its not only like a radiator and atf sensor. It's also something more, like when moving forward my car made a horrible clunky sound, something I think may half to do with either CV joints being broken or something. I don't really know that much about technical svx stuff, so I'm pretty much screwed. I kinda want to just desmantle my svx and destroy all of it b/c I'm so mad.
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  #2  
Old 10-07-2007, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AsILayDying View Post
ok, so now I know its not only like a radiator and atf sensor. It's also something more, like when moving forward my car made a horrible clunky sound, something I think may half to do with either CV joints being broken or something. I don't really know that much about technical svx stuff, so I'm pretty much screwed. I kinda want to just desmantle my svx and destroy all of it b/c I'm so mad.

Sorry to hear about your troubles.

Its bad news, but not TERRIBLE news. 9 times out of ten that crunching noise is the front differential. It has a nifty way of exploding over time.

The not terrible news is - the are pretty cheap. (A used on can be found for 50-200).

The bad news is, the transmission is going to have to come out. And the drive gear is likely chewed all to hell, which means that will need to be replaced as well.

More not terrible news - its not hard to replace that gear - figure and hour - hour and a half of time at the tranny shop.

The bad news... You'll have to pay for removal and replacement. (I paid about 900 bucks for all the work)

The not terrible news is - now is a GREAT time for a 4.44 -4.11 conversion, makes the car twice as fun to drive, and increases the life span of the tranny.


Sorry about the problems.

Patrick.

p.s. If you're going to build it, build in on the bevel. (I can't help but make an obscure literary reference to a guy with the hand "As I Lay Dying")
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1995 Ebony Pearl. S.N. 0001 "Araby"

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  #3  
Old 10-07-2007, 09:49 PM
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Oh, and as a side note - I'm in Eugene, OR. And I have two SVX trannys here. As well as a radiator in good shape. I'll sell them both to you for less than a junk yard would. One of the trannys is a genuine subaru replacement, and is only a year and a half old.


Patrick
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1995 Ebony Pearl. S.N. 0001 "Araby"

JDM Power Mode Switch, Integrated GPS/Video Player
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1992 Teal - Sold to Mysvxrocks
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  #4  
Old 10-07-2007, 11:16 PM
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BeneathNorthernSkys BeneathNorthernSkys is offline
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excellent, a radiator would be much appreciated. the tranny was replaced like 15k ago. I didn't replace it, but the guy who owned it b4 me said he did. This is really frustrating. I've half thought about fixing whats wrong and selling it, b/c this thing is so expensive to fix anything on. I'm so tired of everything being so much money. Idk, in your opinion do you think that it will cross the 1000 dollar line once its all said and done.
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  #5  
Old 10-08-2007, 12:46 AM
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Well, that depends on how much work you do. The radiator is yours for 60 bucks. The transmission could be another ballgame depending on labor. Like I mentioned in the previous post, you are most likely looking at removing, repairing, and reinstalling the transmission. If you are wanting to stay with your current gear ratio, and have a shop do all the work, you are looking what probably amounts to ~6-800 in labor, you'll also want to be sure to install an after market transmission cooler. My guess is if you replace with used parts, you are looking at a total ~1000-1200 bill for everything.

My recommendation (and I am certainly not the only person on the board with an opinion) would be that you spring a few hundred more and move to a different gear ratio. 4.11 and 4.44 gears go along way to increasing transmission life.

Stock SVX transmissions are simply geared to low, and generate to much heat. There are more than a few members here on thier 3rd or 4rth transmission, this problem is seems to be mitigated by switching to a lower gear ratio.

I know I'm getting long winded here, so I'll get along to my final point. Once you have spent the money, you'll be sitting in a very reliable car. That seems to be the mantra of the SVX, you can do it right once, or do it almost right over and over, ad nauseum.

To summerize.
It is likely your transmission is just fine, the deciding factor is going to be wheather or not any of the shards from your front diffential grenading have penetrated the seal between the transmission and differential. Its not likely, but stranger things have happened.

The cost difference between fixing your car to its pre-breakdown state and better than before is not large (additional costs include buying a used rear differential from a junkyard ($50-100) to match the front, and paying someone to swap the guts into your old differential.)


There are a lot of people here with a wealth of knowledge, and I'm sure they'll chime in here and moment.

-Patrick
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Patrick

1995 Ebony Pearl. S.N. 0001 "Araby"

JDM Power Mode Switch, Integrated GPS/Video Player
6Xk Miles.

1992 Teal - Sold to Mysvxrocks
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Last edited by nextse7en; 10-08-2007 at 12:47 AM. Reason: Jack Daniels Spelling.
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  #6  
Old 10-08-2007, 03:06 AM
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Trevor Trevor is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AsILayDying View Post
ok, so now I know its not only like a radiator and atf sensor. It's also something more, like when moving forward my car made a horrible clunky sound, something I think may half to do with either CV joints being broken or something. I don't really know that much about technical svx stuff, so I'm pretty much screwed. I kinda want to just desmantle my svx and destroy all of it b/c I'm so mad.
The radiator and sensor do not represent huge expenditure. Do not fear the worst regarding an unidentified noise.

N.B. You describe a clunky sound, rather than a crunching or grinding noise. As you have suggested, such a noise is more likely to be a CV joint rather than transmission related. There is no reason to jump to conclusions.

Meantime do not fear the worst, let your anger settle and remain rest assured that there are many here who will help you sort out the problem. It may not be too expensive.
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  #7  
Old 10-08-2007, 03:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor View Post
The radiator and sensor do not represent huge expenditure. Do not fear the worst regarding an unidentified noise.

N.B. You describe a clunky sound, rather than a crunching or grinding noise. As you have suggested, such a noise is more likely to be a CV joint rather than transmission related. There is no reason to jump to conclusions.

Meantime do not fear the worst, let your anger settle and remain rest assured that there are many here who will help you sort out the problem. It may not be too expensive.


Opps, Sorry, I read the "clunky sound" as "crunchy sound" Sorry to be alarmist.
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1995 Ebony Pearl. S.N. 0001 "Araby"

JDM Power Mode Switch, Integrated GPS/Video Player
6Xk Miles.

1992 Teal - Sold to Mysvxrocks
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  #8  
Old 10-08-2007, 10:54 AM
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good god, I can't wait tell I get back from this concert and take it into a shop to have a peak at whats up. Thanks for all the information though guys. I love this site. It is one of the coolest things I've ever been to. You all know so much about these cars, and your advice and wisdom has been really helpful for me.
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  #9  
Old 10-08-2007, 02:53 PM
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what does this mean 4.11 and 4.44 gears?

[QUOTE=nextse7en;498521]
My recommendation (and I am certainly not the only person on the board with an opinion) would be that you spring a few hundred more and move to a different gear ratio. 4.11 and 4.44 gears go along way to increasing transmission life.

Are these gears a part of the transmission or what. What is involved in replacing existing gears, please?
Thanks
Keith
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  #10  
Old 10-08-2007, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor View Post
The radiator and sensor do not represent huge expenditure. Do not fear the worst regarding an unidentified noise.

N.B. You describe a clunky sound, rather than a crunching or grinding noise. As you have suggested, such a noise is more likely to be a CV joint rather than transmission related. There is no reason to jump to conclusions.

Meantime do not fear the worst, let your anger settle and remain rest assured that there are many here who will help you sort out the problem. It may not be too expensive.
Is everyone from New Zealand this cool headed? I might have to move over there and take my SVX with me
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  #11  
Old 10-08-2007, 04:17 PM
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Hmm...clunky. Does it do it only when accelerating around a corner? If so, it's likely a cv / axle. 60$ part from most autopart stores, and can easilly be done in the driveway, though you may need to buy a 32mm socket if you dont have one handy

My advice, and Ive given this to alot of people...Pick yourself up some tools. My 180$ toolset probably saved me 7,000$ or more. The hard part in repairs is diagnosing them, and theese guys on this board will actually KNOW what's wrong with your car better than some professional mechanics. And hell, if it's already broke, what's the worst thing that can hapen if you try to fix it?
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  #12  
Old 10-08-2007, 04:32 PM
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[QUOTE=kwren;498624]
Quote:
Originally Posted by nextse7en View Post
My recommendation (and I am certainly not the only person on the board with an opinion) would be that you spring a few hundred more and move to a different gear ratio. 4.11 and 4.44 gears go along way to increasing transmission life.

Are these gears a part of the transmission or what. What is involved in replacing existing gears, please?
Thanks
Keith
Hi Kieth - The transmission is bolted to the front differential they are seperate units. A gear change is accomplished by...
1. Replacing the front diff to a 4.44 or 4.11 diff.
2. Creating a rear diff by combining the LSD bits of your rear diff and a donor rear diff that matches the new front gear ratio.

Most people just swap in an entire 4.44 equipped 4EAT - but thats because this mod is almost always done in the event of original transmission failure.

-Patrick
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1995 Ebony Pearl. S.N. 0001 "Araby"

JDM Power Mode Switch, Integrated GPS/Video Player
6Xk Miles.

1992 Teal - Sold to Mysvxrocks
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  #13  
Old 10-08-2007, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AsILayDying View Post
good god, I can't wait tell I get back from this concert and take it into a shop to have a peak at whats up. Thanks for all the information though guys. I love this site. It is one of the coolest things I've ever been to. You all know so much about these cars, and your advice and wisdom has been really helpful for me.
I gather you are going to "a shop" rather than "your Shop". If so do not take expensive suggestions as read. There have been many instances reported where by assumed experts are so, only as a result of their personal opinion. What is more the bottom line on a prospective charge sheet will be the paramount issue in there opinion.

Listen only and report back here before committing yourself to big money.
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  #14  
Old 10-10-2007, 12:24 PM
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BeneathNorthernSkys BeneathNorthernSkys is offline
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oh its still in the drive way, I haven't done anything, I was too tired to do anything after my show. It was awesome, just wish I had drove up in the good ole' svx. I'm still debating on how to go about seeing whats wrong. The thing is when I put the car into drive, it will roll for just a sec, and then make a studdering clunky noise, so I thought maybe the cv joint is gone or the axle or something. I'm not exactly sure. If it is transmission related then I could be up s**t creek. I really don't have like 2 grand to throw at my car.
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  #15  
Old 10-10-2007, 12:50 PM
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Lets get this beast diagnosed then!

Is it FWD, or AWD?

If awd, it really ought to move even if you have a broken cv joint or grenaded front diff.. Unless duty sol. C isn't functioning properly also.

I'd say your next step in diagnosis is to figure out where the problem is coming from - jack one front tire off the ground at a time and try rotating it with the car in park. You should get some play, but not a lot. If it does roll - there is something wrong up front. let the car down, move it forward 6 inches, and try again.

A grenaded front diff should only allow the wheel to move when the drive gear aligns with the broken teeth, a bad cv joint will let the wheel move all the time.

Another good way to tell might be jacking the whole front of the car up, rotate one wheel, and see if the other wheel rotates in the opposite direction. If it does, but you hear grinding noises, or it starts to move, then stops, it is likely the front diff, if the wheel spins freely with a noticeable clunk, clunk, clunk, and the other tire doesn't move at all, its a CV joint.

Just some thoughts... don't give up on 'er.

Patrick
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1995 Ebony Pearl. S.N. 0001 "Araby"

JDM Power Mode Switch, Integrated GPS/Video Player
6Xk Miles.

1992 Teal - Sold to Mysvxrocks
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