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#16
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Disconnect the negative battery cable. Disconnect the left side O2 sensor connector. Remove the bolts securing the dipstick tube to the cylinder head. Raise and safely support the vehicle on jack-stands. Drain the engine oil into a suitable container. Remove the engine under covers. Remove the left side exhaust manifold cover, front pipe and left exhaust manifold. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts. Disconnect the dipstick tube from the oil pan. Remove the oil pan mounting bolts. Remove the oil pan and gasket. Clean all gasket material from both mating surfaces. To install: Clean all gasket surfaces completely. Install the oil pan using a new gasket. Tighten the mounting bolts to 4 ft. lbs. (5 Nm). Connect the dipstick tube to the oil pan. Install the rack and pinion mounting bolts. Install the left side exhaust manifold, front exhaust pipe and left side manifold cover. Install the engine under covers. Lower the vehicle. Install the bolts securing the dipstick tube to the cylinder head. Connect the left side O2 sensor. Refill the engine with oil. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Hiram [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] |
#17
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Sorry, I made the same post twice
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Hiram [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Last edited by budbaer; 09-28-2007 at 11:52 AM. Reason: double post |
#18
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Some oil change shops will do a power flush of your engine's entire lubrication system. They claim to flush out carbon deposits, dirt and grime from all oil passages, including the pan and pump. Has anyone had experience with this kind of power flush? What are the risks, if any?
Preston |
#19
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About 500 miles ago I flushed the engine ... changed the oil to Mobil 1 synthetic ... checked it today and it's just as clean as when I put it in.
If your car has over 50,000 on it like mine and you decide to flush the engine ... I would recommend putting a new oil filter on before the flush to remove all of the released sludge. Once the flush is done put another new oil filter on. This should eliminate having to drop the oil pan. You should only have to do this once if you change to synthetic.
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92 SVX LS Pearl 94 SVX LSi Barcelona Red 82 Brat 4WD Bob |
#20
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Speaking of oil. What oil is reccommended by SVX owners? Do you guys synthetic oil? If so what brand? Conventional oil? If so, what brand? Being a newbie, just wanted an oppinion on which oil is better for these cars. Thanks.
Paul. |
#21
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I usually clean any sludge or "black deposits" with Carb Cleaner... it is the best!
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Danny 1994 Silver SVX in hybernation, awaiting for the monsterous awakening (Lebanon) 1967 Mercedes-Benz 250SL Euro Specs, Hard/Softtop, White/Red. Under Complete Restoration 2013 Mercedes-Benz SL350 Euro Specs, White/Red. Mint... Another step into SL Collection. |
#22
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Very clean after over 500 miles. I've also heard Amsoil is in the top 2 or 3 synthetic blends.
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92 SVX LS Pearl 94 SVX LSi Barcelona Red 82 Brat 4WD Bob |
#23
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Thinking back to the '62 Chevy on which I learned to drive, oil that blackens quickly could suggest combustion gasses are blowing past a worn or broken piston ring or rings and into the crankcase.
dcb |
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