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  #1  
Old 09-24-2007, 09:30 PM
badazb badazb is offline
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Question torque converter ???

finally got around to taking the tranny out of my car to replace ring and pinion gears for front differential and am thinking im going to need a new torque converter. when i bought the car all i was told was that the car didnt drive and it was prob a ring and pinion, so when i got it here i started it up and tried shifting. shifted to park, tranny engaged clean so i let off the brake a little and it started to push back. shifted to drive, tranny shifted but when torque converter engaged had one clunk, sounded like torque converter may have had a stripped spindle. couple days later had a friend stopped by and asked him if he might be able to point me in the right direction for repair, i already had it up on jack stands. this time shifted to reverse tranny engaged and got clunk, let off brake and let the wheels spin freely for a sec and had a really bad vibration coming from the front of tranny/differential. shifted to drive no clunk and same vibration. he checked the axles and cvs and said the didnt think they were bad but there was a chance one was bent, most likely it was gears or something internal. for the hell of it i drained the differential and started spinning the axle to see if it was messed up. turned out there was a chip in it so i bought a ring and pinion. got tranny out of car tonight and was gonna open the differential, but decided to wait til tomorrow. when i took the torque converter off of tranny i noticed a long tube that held it to the spindle on front of tranny, which seemed odd most tranny's ive pulled before have been domestic and didnt have anything more than a slot for the spindle to sit in. as i pulled converter out i noticed that this tube had a lot of play to it and seemed it might be a likely candidate for what caused the differential to go bad to begin with. which is where my questions start. does anyone have a picture of the stock torque converter and can you tell me if this tube is supposed to be there and if so if its supposed to have play in it. secondly does anyone have access to the tranny part numbers for stock tranny i want to make sure the gears im putting in are right since i bought a set of used stock gears to toss in. there are two stickers with numbers on top of tranny first being TZ102ZM2AA-KR other being 757398 not sure if those are part numbers or just some salvage yards inventory number ill check for a factory serial number stamped on it tomorow. sorry bout the long post and i hope someone can give me some advice.
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  #2  
Old 09-24-2007, 09:44 PM
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Paragraphs would make this much easier to read.
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Old 09-24-2007, 10:02 PM
YourConfused YourConfused is offline
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longassname should be able to handlee this since he is the trans Xpert on here (I hope). That torque tube threw me for a loop when I first saw it too. this car isn't a domestic rwd and is the first of any make w/ awd that I have jacked w/ a trans on. Just be glad it is a jap design. basic logic is all htat is needed to fix mosst problems w/ this car.
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  #4  
Old 09-26-2007, 03:07 PM
genzzel genzzel is offline
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Yeah -- tube is loose

Sounds like everything is ok with torque converter. To quickly check gearing count the teeth on ring and then on pinion; divide pinion number by ring number and you will get ratio ie 3.54, 4.11 or whatever you got.
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  #5  
Old 09-26-2007, 03:09 PM
genzzel genzzel is offline
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??? Maybe that should be---

Maybe that should be ring divided by pinion----duh ha ha he he
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  #6  
Old 09-26-2007, 03:37 PM
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there you go

Quote:
Originally Posted by techy101 View Post
Paragraphs would make this much easier to read.
Finally got around to taking the tranny out of my car to replace ring and pinion gears for front differential and am thinking I am going to need a new torque converter. When I bought the car all I was told was that the car didn’t drive. It was probably a ring and pinion. When I got it here I started it up and tried shifting. Shifted to park, tranny engaged clean so I let off the brake a little and it started to push back. Shifted to drive, tranny shifted but when torque converter engaged had one clunk, sounded like torque converter may have had a stripped spindle.

Couple days later had a friend stopped by and asked him if he might be able to point me in the right direction for repair, I already had it up on jack stands. This time shifted to reverse tranny engaged and got clunk, let off brake and let the wheels spin freely for a sec and had a really bad vibration coming from the front of tranny/differential. Shifted to drive no clunk and same vibration.

He checked the axles and cvs and said he didn’t think they were bad but there was a chance one was bent, most likely it was gears or something internal. For the hell of it I drained the differential and started spinning the axle to see if it was messed up. Turned out there was a chip in it so I bought a ring and pinion.

Got tranny out of car tonight and was going to open the differential, but decided to wait till tomorrow. When I took the torque converter off of tranny I noticed a long tube that held it to the spindle on front of tranny. This seemed odd most tranny's I have pulled before have been domestic and didn’t have anything more than a slot for the spindle to sit in.

As I pulled converter out I noticed that this tube had a lot of play to it and seemed it might be a likely candidate for what caused the differential to go bad to begin with. Which is where my questions start. Does anyone have a picture of the stock torque converter and can you tell me if this tube is supposed to be there and if so if it’s supposed to have play in it.

Secondly does anyone have access to the tranny part numbers for stock tranny I want to make sure the gears I am putting in are right since I bought a set of used stock gears to toss in. there are two stickers with numbers on top of tranny first being TZ102ZM2AA-KR other being 757398.

Not sure if those are part numbers or just some salvage yards inventory number ill check for a factory serial number stamped on it tomorrow. Sorry bout the long post and I hope someone can give me some advice.

Next you will want shorter sentences!
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Old 09-26-2007, 05:40 PM
badazb badazb is offline
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lol sorry bout that was tired and lazy. ty for info. tranny is back in car now so ill just see how it goes when i finish it up tomorrow/tonight. prob wont be able to sleep knowing its that close to being finished.
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Old 09-29-2007, 03:03 PM
badazb badazb is offline
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everything is back in and seems to be working. the power light still blinks 16 times when i start it up though.
still need help with a few things if anyone can answer them.
1. i checked the engine codes and got a 31 TPS sensor code. where is it located at?
2. driver side O2 sensor wire has two wiring harnesses in it. one is to O2 and i didnt unplug other/ dont see any unplugged connectors just hanging. does anyone know where the other gray plug goes to. i think its just has a two wire plug in.
3. still tryin to figure out how to do the tcu code check.

any info yall can help with would be appreciated
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Old 09-29-2007, 10:18 PM
subarufamily subarufamily is offline
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tcu blinking

the blinking light is a real B*TCH as it only signifys you need to go to the steelership as the tcu found an error somewhere. I followed all the directions on this site for finding out how to read it and came up blank some one else might need to weigh in on this particular problem though i went to the steelership ( what year is the svx) and they found out silinoid c was bad but btw power light blinking means that you have an internal error code if you look in the how to you can get all the possible code it could be
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  #10  
Old 09-30-2007, 11:55 AM
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Significant Technical Input
That pipe on the torque converter is not supposed to be tight on the converter; it is only held to the converter with a snap ring. It is the pump driveshaft and is loose to allow for alignment with the pump rotor.

When the differential housing is r&r'd the converter housing tube seal must be replaced. If you didn't do that then go ahead of take it all out and back apart again now rather than very shorty down the road. The converter housing tube seal is the tube with molded rubber seals on both ends which provides the tunnel for the pump drive shaft to get from the torque converter to the pump while keeping the differential fluid seperated from the aft. If you don't replace it you get atf in your dif and gear oil in your transmission.

Most differential failures on this car are the result of someone working on the transmission/differential and getting it wrong. Did you know/follow the correct sequence for setting up the differential this time?

Last edited by longassname; 09-30-2007 at 12:33 PM.
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  #11  
Old 09-30-2007, 12:26 PM
badazb badazb is offline
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doubting i did since i didnt replace seal and am not a mechanic. all i wanted to replace the ring and pinion for was so i could make it maybe 6 miles round trip to take the car down to dmv for a VIN check to get titled. from there was planning on doing 4.XX conversion to it. since i replaced the diff have only taken it around block 4 times with no major issues but i know the clearance in differential isnt correct, and none of the shops in area would do benchwork for me unless i was part of a local dealership/company.
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  #12  
Old 10-02-2007, 07:52 PM
badazb badazb is offline
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got the vin check and title is in mail. i took the car to a tranny shop around the corner that was recommended by a bunch of ppl i know, he confirmed what i thought about issues with the clearance. since the car has only gone 12 miles since i bought it, at less than 30mph, im thinkin ill buy another so i have a spare and toss that in and take this one down and have it fixed, since he said he would do that. guessing i might as well buy a master rebuild kit so that i have a good tranny when the used one eventually goes. figure the dealer can answer tranny questions about spindle length (thought i saw there were two different rebuild kits available) can anyone recommend other things i might need aside from the kit i.e. seals and such so there is no questions about whether they were done or not.
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  #13  
Old 10-09-2007, 01:18 PM
badazb badazb is offline
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could you please point out the seals that shouldve been replaced.

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  #14  
Old 10-09-2007, 01:36 PM
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#13 in that diagram, there is also an oring #23 on the input shaft, and a sealing ring on the pump drive shaft which isn't numbered in that diagram.
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  #15  
Old 10-09-2007, 04:05 PM
badazb badazb is offline
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thank u, ill replace those when i take it down to have the clearance fixed.
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