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  #1  
Old 06-09-2007, 04:28 AM
subru92svx subru92svx is offline
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Best rotors?

I was curious what rotors people are running on their cars? Any certain brands or sellers people have had good luck with? Seems like I've been going threw them about every 6 months. Damn our heavy beautiful cars
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  #2  
Old 06-09-2007, 11:52 AM
Kelvin Kelvin is offline
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What pads are you using?! I've had the same rotors for a few years, no problems. I got them off ebay.
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  #3  
Old 06-09-2007, 12:17 PM
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ensteele ensteele is offline
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There are a few places that members have purchased them. One is IRotors and the ones I have came from Race Concepts. He has given us a group buy price a few times. They come slotted, slotted and dimple drilled, and dimple drilled. They usually have the brakes and fluid included in the kit they sell. I would also suggest the ss brake lines at the same time. That is a great upgrade to your brakes.
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  #4  
Old 06-09-2007, 04:53 PM
subru92svx subru92svx is offline
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The last 3 sets of rotors I have used were slotted and drilled. First set I bought off Ebay were warped really bad after about a week. The second set I spent about $400 on four all four from NAPA lasted longer, but still ended up warping the front ones. I had NAPA warrenty them and got brand new ones for the front which are now warped again. The pads I'm using are Akebono Pro-Act Ceramics. I have new calipers all around and I have been running the ss brake lines for about the last 2 years. I think my only real fix is a big brake kit, but don't have the money for that right now. I just hate throwing money away on rotors that only last me about 6 months at the most. Hopefully my next ones will last a little longer. The funny thing is I'm not even hard and never just slam on the brakes.
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  #5  
Old 06-09-2007, 05:43 PM
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ensteele ensteele is offline
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What were the brands (other than NAPA) or who did you buy them from?
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  #6  
Old 06-09-2007, 07:30 PM
subru92svx subru92svx is offline
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I can't remember the Ebay seller I bought them from. I know it wasn't Raceconcepts though. They were advertised as Brembo rotors and when I received them they did say Brembo on them, but I called the Brembo company and they told me they do not make rotors for the SVX. So they must of been some knock offs.
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  #7  
Old 06-09-2007, 08:06 PM
Bobb Bobb is offline
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Rotors

I've had ART rotors on for about Five years and never had any problems. As has been pointed out drilled are not good unless the holes are cast in at the time the rotors are made. And don't buy anything from China. Take care, BOBB
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  #8  
Old 06-09-2007, 08:07 PM
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ensteele ensteele is offline
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That is why dimple drilled is better.
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1992 White LS-L ~139K (08/92) #6913
1993 25th AE ~98K (02/93) #164
1993 25th AE ~58K (02/93) #176
1993 25th AE ~107K (02/93) #215
1993 25th AE ~162K (02/93) #223
1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~124K (1/94) #2408
1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~144K (10/93) #1484
1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~68K (10/93) #1525
1994 Barcelona Red LSi ~46K (02/94) #2624
1994 Pearl LSi ~41K (12/93) #1961
1995 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~70K (02/95) #855
1996 Polo Green LSi ~95K (03/96) #872
1997 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~55K (08/96) #097
2003 Brilliant Red LS1 Convertible ~29K (04/03) #8951
1999 Magnetic Red LS1 Coupe ~33K (04/99) #6420

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  #9  
Old 06-09-2007, 10:47 PM
Kelvin Kelvin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subru92svx
The last 3 sets of rotors I have used were slotted and drilled. First set I bought off Ebay were warped really bad after about a week. The second set I spent about $400 on four all four from NAPA lasted longer, but still ended up warping the front ones. I had NAPA warrenty them and got brand new ones for the front which are now warped again. The pads I'm using are Akebono Pro-Act Ceramics. I have new calipers all around and I have been running the ss brake lines for about the last 2 years. I think my only real fix is a big brake kit, but don't have the money for that right now. I just hate throwing money away on rotors that only last me about 6 months at the most. Hopefully my next ones will last a little longer. The funny thing is I'm not even hard and never just slam on the brakes.
Rotors don't warp:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

Your problem is that you're using ceramic pads, which although great for daily driving, do NOT have the maximum operating temperature of metallics, and thus overheat, and result in uneven pad deposits, and a pulsating pedal.

I've been using Axxis Ultimates and metal masters for a few years now, and they not only stop really well, but I have NEVER had a pulsating brake pedal. Their maximum operating temperature is ridiculously high for a street pad, the ONLY downside to them is they dust a LOT.
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  #10  
Old 06-09-2007, 10:48 PM
Kelvin Kelvin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subru92svx
I can't remember the Ebay seller I bought them from. I know it wasn't Raceconcepts though. They were advertised as Brembo rotors and when I received them they did say Brembo on them, but I called the Brembo company and they told me they do not make rotors for the SVX. So they must of been some knock offs.
Yeah, that's what I have. Raceconcepts. Anyway, the brembo ones are real brembo discs, but they're machined for the SVX's bolt pattern by individual brake shops/companies.
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  #11  
Old 06-09-2007, 11:34 PM
XT6Wagon XT6Wagon is offline
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Rotors most certainly DO warp. who ever wrote that little steaming pile certainly has never owned an automatic SHO with stock brakes. You can warp the front rotors to tierod and balljoint shattering levels with just a couple miles of downgrade if you fail to enginebrake and learn to let it cool before getting on it again.

nice thing was you could get them back straight with a very very careful cooling cycle after getting them hot again.

Who ever wrote it kinda skirted around the issue. Improper Rotor design in hat vs disk and seriously insufficent thermal mass and cooling = warped rotor. Mind these were seriously crap rotors such that you could warp them with ease if you didn't install your rims correctly and it put stress on the hat.


That said, I've been a fan of the cheap chinese rotors from autozone based on the above experience given that they were a few lbs heavier than the OEM ford part. A couple lbs heavier means a couple lbs more mass adding stiffness and absorbing heat so peak tempatures are lower. Never warped those rotors. Then again I never let my mom drive the car with those brakes so they never got truely tested.
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  #12  
Old 06-10-2007, 09:29 AM
Kelvin Kelvin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XT6Wagon
Rotors most certainly DO warp. who ever wrote that little steaming pile certainly has never owned an automatic SHO with stock brakes.
Erm, the guy who wrote it knows a lot more than you, or I.

http://www.carrollsmith.com/biography/index.html

He's also the one who wrote some of the most famous racecar engineering books on the planet. I'm pretty sure he knows what he's talking about, especially since after reading his books, and taking his advice by purchasing pads with the highest posssible max operating temp, I've had ZERO pedal pulsation in quite a few years in ALL my cars.
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Old 06-10-2007, 09:39 AM
XT6Wagon XT6Wagon is offline
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yah, well, even the smartest of people can be idiots at times.

There is definitely cases where rotors can and do warp. He is not going to see them given that he tends to work with cars with properly engineered brakes, and that have extensive mesures taken to ensure they work right.

Like I said, go drive a 1993-1995 Ford Taurus SHO automatic with stock brakes and you will learn what brake warping is if you are not careful. As I said its a result of poor rotor design, but its clear proof that it DOES exist. I would submit that he is correct that rotorwarping doesn't exist in properly engineered braking systems, but to say it doesn't exist at all?
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  #14  
Old 06-10-2007, 09:45 AM
Kelvin Kelvin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XT6Wagon
yah, well, even the smartest of people can be idiots at times.

There is definitely cases where rotors can and do warp. He is not going to see them given that he tends to work with cars with properly engineered brakes, and that have extensive mesures taken to ensure they work right.

Like I said, go drive a 1993-1995 Ford Taurus SHO automatic with stock brakes and you will learn what brake warping is if you are not careful. As I said its a result of poor rotor design, but its clear proof that it DOES exist. I would submit that he is correct that rotorwarping doesn't exist in properly engineered braking systems, but to say it doesn't exist at all?
A lot of people would claim the same about the SVX, but since switching to the pads with the highest operating temperature I could find, it's been non-existant. I'm guessing you were using crappy brake pads on your taurus.

And again, I don't think that Carroll Smith, author of some of the most famous racecar engineering books on the planet, read by thousands of cargeeks/engineers world over, would read something like this and not notice a huge glaring flaw in it. So either:

1. All the car geeks/engineers in the world just happened to not see this part, and you're right.

or

2. They did read it, and you're wrong.

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Old 06-10-2007, 11:08 AM
XT6Wagon XT6Wagon is offline
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Yah, it has nothing to do with the pads. You can replicate it with improper torque on the lugnuts warping the hat, which warps the rotor.

Now, I KNOW there is tons of things that get mistaken for warped rotors, but given the evidence of thousands of owners of this one car, its safe to say its the rotors are warping and not the pads or anything else.

If you use the 96+ caliper brackets and rotors you get 0 warping issues even with the same old pads in the same old calipers. It even removes the lugnut torque sequence from affecting it. Strange that.

I haven't gotten my SVX to do anything but fade badly.
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