Solve my problem & win a prize

[UPnorth362]

I had the same problem at one point, with the exact same symptoms. I tried a few things at once, so im not sure what fixed it. Im pretty sure the problem was with a leaky coil boot. They all looked good, but one didn't fit tight. I noticed a faint little carbon line leaking around the plug, it was almost unnoticeable.
If the switch doesn't fix it , I would try these things.

1. Change the coil boots and add a small amount of dia electric grease to the inside of the boot only. I used the distributor side boots from a pair of Chevy caprice 8mm wires from napa. They are a bit snug to get on, but work as good if not better than stock.

2. Check all the grounds under the hood. Make sure that all the connections are clean and wires are corrosion free. I found that most of the wires in my car had sever corrosion inside the connectors. If you see any green corrosion, I would either replace the wire, or cut the wire back a bit and replace the connector.

3. Check to see that the upper intake manifold bolts are tight. I found that all of mine were loose, and could unscrew 4 of them by hand. This would allow unmetered air into the cylinders. Not sure of the torque specs off hand, but I know someone here has them.

4.Clean the MAF with MAF cleaner. MAF cleaner is less harsh than brake and carb cleaner, which can harm the components of the MAF.

5. If you use an oiled type air filter, Try replacing it with a paper one, while you are testing out your repairs. It is possable to over oil the filter, both restricting air flow, and coating the MAF wires with oil.

Give them a shot and let us know the out come. I would really look into the coil boots. They are cheep and easy to replace, and to be quite honest I think this is where your problem lies.

[TomsSVX]

Dan... just saw this... I actually got a switch from Tom the elder this past week. First I want to check the continuity of your ign switch while the car is driving, so when this "stall" does happen we can see if the switch is causing it

Tom

[SA SVX]

Is it possible when the timing chain was replaced something (a cam) was off by one tooth? At low speeds/RPM it would go unnoticed but as the revs go up it would become more problematic.

[TomsSVX]

Originally Posted by SA SVX

Is it possible when the timing chain was replaced something (a cam) was off by one tooth? At low speeds/RPM it would go unnoticed but as the revs go up it would become more problematic.

This has crossed my mind as well... The only thing steering me away from that is that it is intermittent meaning it doesn't happen all the time. If this were the case, it would be happening all the time... Although belts have been known to jump, I am sure, as I always am when setting a timing belt, that the marks were lined up properly and checked before the tensioner was set, after it was set and after the cam pulleys were tightened.

Tom

[SA SVX]

Could it be a glitch in the brain? Thought i read it resets when the battery is disconnected or some such. Though sure Tom tried that by now. *pounds head into desk ummmm oh that it E=mc2, that should solve it.

[TomsSVX]

the ECU is a logical option... I do not have a way to test it outside of just swapping it with a good one... Which I do not have handy. I did remove it and look for loose or bad connections in the ECU itself and look for what I would expect to see as a crack or a burn on both the topside and underside of the chip board. I also tried to smell it for any resonance of electrical burninng if it did have a short inside... As far as I am concerned at this point. this should not be his problem

Tom

[DanSVX94]

Hi Tom,

I already ordered the switch, which should be here early next week -- I hope. I was planning on having it put in locally and seeing if this solves the problem. Of course I would much much much rather bring it to you, but it's a long drive and the traffic on Southern State - Belt Parkway - Staten Island is brutal.

You were definitely very thorough and there's no way I can thank you enough.

I'm going to look through all the suggestions mentioned in this thread and try to have as many as possible checked during switch install.

Is the switch easy to install? Maybe I could do it myself.

[TomsSVX]

Originally Posted by DanSVX94

Hi Tom,

I already ordered the switch, which should be here early next week -- I hope. I was planning on having it put in locally and seeing if this solves the problem. Of course I would much much much rather bring it to you, but it's a long drive and the traffic on Southern State - Belt Parkway - Staten Island is brutal.

You were definitely very thorough and there's no way I can thank you enough.

I'm going to look through all the suggestions mentioned in this thread and try to have as many as possible checked during switch install.

Is the switch easy to install? Maybe I could do it myself.

You have to take apart a great portion of the steering column to get to it... I would say it is not easy

Tom

[Trevor]

Take note of this, my previous post, before deciding to spend time and or money on replacing the ignition switch.

Originally Posted by Trevor

Tom,

Yes off the wall for sure, but elctrickery is like that.

My intent was to save you some frustration, if you decided to proceed down this path. The problem could exist even, though the lights do not flicker, given the possible time delay.

In the event that you wish to proceed, you could hot wire from battery positive to of fuse No. 18, so as to provide a parallel direct feed to the ignition switched circuitry. In the circumstances, you will have to leave a link in place during test runs over a period.

I suggest that you make up a lead fitted with a clip which can be attached/detached from the battery and incorporating a 10 -15 amp in line fuse, then insert some strands with fuse 18. Make certain the circuit is complete with the ignition switch off, and you will be in business.

Be assured that this will be much simpler than messing about with the ignition switch and associated wiring.

[TomsSVX]

well, he has decided to wave the 4 hr drive to come here so I can only be of verbal assistance. I got a good working switch to test the problem, not to fix it

Tom

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by DanSVX94

Hi Tom,
Is the switch easy to install? Maybe I could do it myself.

No. Read my posts which cover a simple fool proof test.

[TomsSVX]

I understand trevor... but jumping ignition wires is not something I really want to do... get the wrong wire and you are in a heap of trouble... If I could merely check the continuity of the circuit while this stall is happening it would tell me more than the fix or no fix

Tom

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by TomsSVX

I understand trevor... but jumping ignition wires is not something I really want to do... get the wrong wire and you are in a heap of trouble... If I could merely check the continuity of the circuit while this stall is happening it would tell me more than the fix or no fix

Tom

If you follow my instructions there is NO possible way that you can get into any trouble, even if you make a blue(mistake). A continuity check without passing current is next to useless, as both Beav and myself have many times pointed out.

[TomsSVX]

how is it useless? I mean from what I can gather, the switch is dropping its ability to hold a connection and thus dropping its continuity??

Tom

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by TomsSVX

how is it useless? I mean from what I can gather, the switch is dropping its ability to hold a connection and thus dropping its continuity??

Tom

The switch could exhibit next to zero resistance, unless it is passing significant current and a fault will not show up. An ohmmeter is useless in these circumstances. Check my locker for further info.