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  #1  
Old 01-10-2007, 07:55 AM
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momzsvx momzsvx is offline
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Okay another question to ask (???)

What is the going rate for a nice paint job done on an svx? I am not talken a cheap company but a very qualified professional. I have the option to get two doors which would make me need to have a paint job done for the same distance as one door that is the same color so I need advice quickly please. Thank You
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  #2  
Old 01-10-2007, 09:44 AM
davew833 davew833 is offline
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I've been researching this topic since I've got to get my '95 bordeaux repainted. Most people I've heard about lately are paying between $2000 -$3000 for a professional body shop paint job. Mine was estimated at $2800. I also went to Maaco and for their best (Presidential?) paint job basecoat/clearcoat, the estimate was about $1350 with a half-price sale they had going on the clearcoat. A one-stage paint job at Maaco is probably about $800. Many people knock Maaco because their materials and prep are a little cheaper, but several people on this board have gone that route and been quite satisfied. A good bodyshop (probably not Maaco) could also spot-paint part of the car (like the doors) and blend it in with the existing paint with good results. The pro body shop I went to quoted me about $1500 to paint my hood, roof, trunklid, and wing and blend it in with the existing paint.
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  #3  
Old 01-10-2007, 09:57 AM
etz bseder etz bseder is offline
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It Depends

My car is in bad shape, but to get all the dents out and get the thing sanded and painted to stock, i have been quoted 3400-3500 from white guys, but the mexicans in Greeley have body shops too, and they have quoted 1700-2000. That's what i'm going to do, i just have to save up money
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  #4  
Old 01-10-2007, 10:32 AM
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Some idiot decided it was a good idea to attach a wind deflector to the roof of my car and leave it on for 15 years - it added up to 50 horsepower, but now theres paint damage where it used to be time for a black onyx respray
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  #5  
Old 01-10-2007, 10:34 AM
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Prices vary according to were you live. Example, going rates in my area can be nearly double what people in the south and mid west pay. I was quoted $3000 just to respray it the same color, and over $5000 to change the color.
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  #6  
Old 01-10-2007, 12:25 PM
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I've wanted a blue car forever, but I could never bring myself to pay that much. I guess I can live with silver for now..
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  #7  
Old 01-10-2007, 03:24 PM
craftylandshark craftylandshark is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricochet
I've wanted a blue car forever, but I could never bring myself to pay that much. I guess I can live with silver for now..
brief hijack! if you need any silver body panels in excellent shape, i might have a whole cars' worth sans the front clip as soon as this weekend.
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  #8  
Old 01-10-2007, 06:37 PM
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It's Just Eric It's Just Eric is offline
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Step 1 in looking for a body shop is checking out their quality, step 2 is price. Ask them to see work they've recently completed..Dont even ask what was repaired. If you can spot it, they likely didnt do it right. What to look for: Diffrent orange peel pattern,runs, overspray on moldings, hard edges from tape (Over taped moldings),light / dark spots, dust in the paint,Chips that were painted over, dents thet weren't repaired, wavy bondo / outlinesunder the paint,pinholes, hard tape ines in the base coat, sanding scratches, and color match (If they paneled the car, itll be easier to spot than if they did a blend)

Some of this is rather inportant for the longevity of the paint as well as astetics....

Difftrent orange peel pattern is a dead gieaway that something was repaired. Nothing kills a new paitn job like when someone looks down the side of your freshly waxed car and it looks like the ocean on a windy day.This, along with the light and dark spots and paint runs would indicate the painter isnt the best.
But more inportant than the painter's work is the prep-guy's work.
Let's say, for example, that nobody sanded the car before they put primer over the body filler spots. That primer will NEVER sit flat..The edges will "ghost" and basicy just sit on the old paint, waiting to peel off. Also, a mild wavy patern could be created from a prepper using short hard swipes with a sanding block.It's also pretty obvious when a chip isnt sanded..Or it isnt feathered out all the way, creating a layered hole looking spot.

Usually people don't notice this stuff, but you damn well will notice overspray on moldings, or parts where the old color is showing through. This is created when the guy with the roll of tape is careless. Keep an eye out for overspray on moldings, this is a dead giveaway that A: they never removed the molding B: The next best thing would have been to use lift tape...and they didnt and C: Now your molding has effectivly created a hard line in the paint, which is likely tom peel back over time. Also likely to peel back is an area that was taped and shouldnt have been, resulting in a hard edge of paint when the tape is removed.

Also on the tape up- duty is the guy who taped the car up for primer...If they made a nice little hard edge right next to the body filler, and expected the edge to feather out...Wel, they'd be right. But little do they know that edge will come right back as soon as basecoat is sprayed. The primer edge tends to eat away at whatever is underneath, leaving a lasting impression, much the same way "Support our troops" ribbons do when a car gets dirty. This one is hard to spot, and really doesnt create any future problems...but if your are a picky person with a black car...thisll be a nightmare.

One last thing in my long winded bodywork rant....sanding scraches. Now, this one is on the guy who put the bondo down. typically it should be finished with, say, 180 or 220 grit sand paper. 220 or 320 and up if the painter plans on doing a wet-on-wet with the sealer and paint (No primer) Sometimes though, they'll just leave it with 80, or worse yet, 36 grit. This one is a kicker...If the guy with the primer burys the mess, and it blocks out nice...and it gets painted and looks GREAT...Probly a month later itll show itself. Most primers and paints will actually shrink back as they harden, revealing whats underneath (See the hard edges in basecoat above)
If you look closely you can probly catch this while the paint is still fresh.


So umm...To answer your question...I don't know price quotes....But I can do it myself for the cost of materials
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  #9  
Old 01-10-2007, 06:49 PM
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Thanks everyone

I will have to figure out the better option with a minimal dent into the savings account.
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