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Old 09-13-2006, 11:15 AM
cdigerlando cdigerlando is offline
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Location: Longwood, FL
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Multiple Issues

I am dealing with multiple issues and would appreciate any advice in that regard. I was having some idle issues. So I blocked off the idle air controller and the cold engine air recirculation lines for testing. Before warming the car up, I checked the cold engine recirulating valve to see if it was open. It was. After warming up the engine it still seemed open which concerned me a bit. Then after setting the idle manually I connected the idle air controller and the idle jumped to 730 rpms. I manually adjusted the idle down, but I thought that the idle air control valve should have been shut. Shouldn't it only open if the idle is off, or their is something like the AC that comes on? Anyway I turned it down.

Overheating is still an issue. I am starting to think I have a bad radiator. I can monitor my engine temperature digitally, and when I turn the heater on the engine heat drops immediately. When I turn the heat off, the temp climbs immediately. Its like the radiator does nothing. I'm going to flush the system again. Both the radiator and the block separately. I may even shove a snake in to see if something is clogging it. The radiator is relatively new. I don't want to start replacing parts until the problem goes away. If I do replace the radiator, I will probably go with the PWR radiator.

Another issue I have been dealing with is tuning with the engine management. I have two O2 sensors. One is a narrow band, which is tied into the engine management. The other is a stand alone wide band, which I am monitoring separately. I can get the injectors set (not the easiest task), but then when I try to let the engine management tune using the narrow band, the readings go wack. I even tried messing with the calibration curve and the sensitivity of the changes that the sensor has. No go. I am an engineer, and I deal with control issues regularly. It seems ludicrice to try to tune based on the readings from a narrow band. The values swing so suddenly, I think it would be impossible to get anything set right. Am I the only one that thinks this way? I am seriously considering permanenely installing the wideband, and running an output to my engine management. Fortunately the the electromotive will let me do this. Either that or setting up the narrowband as more of a failsafe, in the event that the mixture goes way too lean, like around 15.2 or so, the EM will kick up the fuel a bit. But leave the settings alone otherwise. Most folks don't allow EGO correction over 1800 rpms anyway. They let the management do the work. Besides the SVX has a good habit of stalling when it gets too lean (or so I have found out).
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1992 Subaru SVX LS-L - Heavily modded turbo
2002 Subaru Impreza WRX- Turboxs stg3 & Susp. Mods

Last edited by cdigerlando; 09-13-2006 at 11:18 AM.
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  #2  
Old 09-13-2006, 05:20 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Coffs Harb, Australia.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdigerlando
I am dealing with multiple issues and would appreciate any advice in that regard. I was having some idle issues. So I blocked off the idle air controller and the cold engine air recirculation lines for testing. Before warming the car up, I checked the cold engine recirulating valve to see if it was open. It was. After warming up the engine it still seemed open which concerned me a bit. Then after setting the idle manually I connected the idle air controller and the idle jumped to 730 rpms. I manually adjusted the idle down, but I thought that the idle air control valve should have been shut. Shouldn't it only open if the idle is off, or their is something like the AC that comes on? Anyway I turned it down.

Overheating is still an issue. I am starting to think I have a bad radiator. I can monitor my engine temperature digitally, and when I turn the heater on the engine heat drops immediately. When I turn the heat off, the temp climbs immediately. Its like the radiator does nothing. I'm going to flush the system again. Both the radiator and the block separately. I may even shove a snake in to see if something is clogging it. The radiator is relatively new. I don't want to start replacing parts until the problem goes away. If I do replace the radiator, I will probably go with the PWR radiator.
.
Chuck just looking at the idle problems. First the facts. The throttle butterfly should be fully closed, you should not adjust the stop screw to make it idle. The Idle Air Control works all the time, it provides the idle speed all the time, adjusting up and down to maintain the idle speed. When you open the throttle to rev the engine, the IAC valve opens fully, when you let the throttle close, the IAC valve will then close down, till the engine speed settles down to the the correct idle speed.

The Auxiliary Air Control has an electrical heated element that is turned on when you turn the ign on, it heats the bi metal spring to close it, over time. So if you pull the pipe to the AACV before you turn the key on, you should be able to blow through it. Turn the key on, and the valve will take about 1 minute to close.

If you are having idle speed problems, it could be caused by an vacuum leak, on the engine side of the throttle butterfly or, it is the Idle Air Control valve sticking, from gunk,that accumulates down there.

The heating problem. As you say the temp drops immediately, you turn on the heater, and goes back up when you turn the heater off. This is not likely to be the actually water temp, that is rising and falling, water doesn't gain and drop temp that fast. It would seem that the temp sensor, is sensing hot water, then no water. Check that the radiator is actually full, and there is no air in the system.

No idea on the last problem mate.

Harvey.
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  #3  
Old 09-14-2006, 02:30 AM
cdigerlando cdigerlando is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Longwood, FL
Posts: 1,422
Quote:
Originally Posted by oab_au
Chuck just looking at the idle problems. First the facts. The throttle butterfly should be fully closed, you should not adjust the stop screw to make it idle. The Idle Air Control works all the time, it provides the idle speed all the time, adjusting up and down to maintain the idle speed. When you open the throttle to rev the engine, the IAC valve opens fully, when you let the throttle close, the IAC valve will then close down, till the engine speed settles down to the the correct idle speed.

The Auxiliary Air Control has an electrical heated element that is turned on when you turn the ign on, it heats the bi metal spring to close it, over time. So if you pull the pipe to the AACV before you turn the key on, you should be able to blow through it. Turn the key on, and the valve will take about 1 minute to close.

If you are having idle speed problems, it could be caused by an vacuum leak, on the engine side of the throttle butterfly or, it is the Idle Air Control valve sticking, from gunk,that accumulates down there.

The heating problem. As you say the temp drops immediately, you turn on the heater, and goes back up when you turn the heater off. This is not likely to be the actually water temp, that is rising and falling, water doesn't gain and drop temp that fast. It would seem that the temp sensor, is sensing hot water, then no water. Check that the radiator is actually full, and there is no air in the system.

No idea on the last problem mate.

Harvey.

Well the idle is adjusted now and working well. I was thinking of pulling the auxilliary air control and readjusting it to not flow. I was also under the impression it should be closed after heating. Then readjusting the idle to 600 when warm. No choice now. I've already had to adjust it.

I'm sure I'm not getting air. The location of the new sensor is on the recirc line at the suction side of the water pump. The radiator is full. I'm pretty certain this is some sort of radiator or flow to the radiator issue, since the car cools back down when the heater is activated.
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1992 Subaru SVX LS-L - Heavily modded turbo
2002 Subaru Impreza WRX- Turboxs stg3 & Susp. Mods
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