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Old 08-20-2006, 07:22 AM
rayford rayford is offline
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Still getting codes after changnt out parts.

I have been having problems for a while with slow starting, hesitation on acceleration, and starter solenoid clicking and not starting, and maybe other things that I can't think of right now.. Well I replaced the TPS, the two crank sensors under the alternator, and put a relay between the starter wire and the solenoid on the starter,, I saw that on this forum and though it was worth a try even though I do think my ignition switch is getting weak, I used a starter solenoid off a riding mower, that way just ground the base to the firewall and then you only have three wires to contend with, it was a very simple install..And now even my remote start works everytime. So after doing those thing, the car works 98% better, but the thing is, I tried a couple of times to clear the codes but after driving only a couple of miles the check engine light comes on and stays on, it used to come on and after a while it would go out and maybe not come on for several days, the codes I get are just the same as before I did the repairs. 11 = crank sensor , 28 = knock sensor #2, and 37 = Oxygen sensor #2. and as it is running so much better I can't see the same things being wrong . I first just unhooked the neg. side of the battery and rehooked it, then since that didn't work I tried what I saw on this forum, to unhook the battery and turn the ignition switch on along with the light and even touched the neg to the pos. terminals together. and still the same codes. if all else fails I will just put a piece of black tape over the light as that pesters me to see any lights on that shouldn't be,, Anyone got any ideas as to why it is running so much better but are still showing the same codes...Oh by the way, in one post it said to use the big black plug to put the blue wire in, but I tried that and nothing happened so I used the smaller black plug and got the light response to check the codes.. Thanks. Vernon
Oh, I am still having the going in and out of overdrive some when just going down the road at normal speed with or with the cruise control on, I changed the TPS as I said but didn't have a speed sensor to try as I think Harvey suggested, but if it were the speed sensor would the speedometer still read right... "well as right as a SVX speedometer can get anyway"

Last edited by rayford; 08-20-2006 at 07:39 AM.
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Old 08-20-2006, 07:23 AM
rayford rayford is offline
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You would think I could spell by now , I meant after changing out parts.. it the heading of my post......
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Old 08-20-2006, 09:52 AM
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did you set the TPS to the correct voltage after you replaced it? You can do a search of the Network to get the "how to"
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Old 08-20-2006, 10:10 AM
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Have you had your battery checked? My remote starter will only work with a good charged battery. As far as reoccuring codes, try letting it sit overnight with the battery terminals off. Also regarding the overdrive try pulling the transmission codes. Does your speedometer work currently?
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Old 08-20-2006, 10:24 AM
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Hi, no I didn't actually check the reading on the TPS because I have a digital ohm meter and it is really kind of junk, or I don't know how to use it, I just positioned the replacement one at about center like the other one was but as I said the car runs a lot better since I replaced the above mentioned items. I will try disconnecting the battery and let is sit over night, I should have done that last night.
The battery is not even a year old and never fails to crank fast, but the remote starter works great since I put the relay on the starter wire,, and I didn't even think about checking the codes on the transmission, I will do a search on here to see how to do it,, Thanks Vernon
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Old 08-20-2006, 10:50 AM
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Ok, I just went out and checked the codes on the transmission, I checked for both existing and previous codes and all I got was a continous blinking of the power light with no interuptions so I am guessing there are no trouble codes stored for the transmission?? so what else could it be? the TPS not being set right even though it runs great??? thanks. Vernon.
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Old 08-20-2006, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayford
Ok, I just went out and checked the codes on the transmission, I checked for both existing and previous codes and all I got was a continous blinking of the power light with no interuptions so I am guessing there are no trouble codes stored for the transmission?? so what else could it be? the TPS not being set right even though it runs great??? thanks. Vernon.
You should make sure the TPS is set correctly. It is my experience that even cheap multi meters from Taiwan, China, etc are accurate within acceptable limits. You advise that your battery is OK. If your meter reads 12 volts or slightly more, directly connected to the battery, you can be confident that it is within limits. You simply set the range knob to a DC volts at the level nearest above that which you require to read. I would expect this to be DC 20 volts. Try a higher range as well as a double check on accuracy.

Here is my advice from the how to section:-

In order to adjust the TPS the manual says to measure voltage at the TPS by inserting meter probes into the plug at the ECU. Nice and easy that is ! In order to accomplish the feat without tying yourself in a knot you will require, best of all one of those dress making pins with a nice thin shank and a knob on the end, or a thin needle. Also a meter to measure 0.5 volts d.c..

The TPS comprises a potentiometer, presumably used in a voltage divider configuration, as three wires come from it. There is a plug and socket close to the unit so that it can be easily removed for servicing. At this plug the wires are --- black ground and one end of the resistance element, red the other end and white the wiping contact.

Stick your pin right through the white insulated wire so that you can clip your meter lead onto it to make measurements. A fine pin will not damage the conductors as they will spread and there will be no significant damage to the insulation. Measure between the wiper, i.e. white wire and ground by connecting to engine, chassis, battery negative, or whatever.

Now from the book :-- 1. Connect all connectors. 2. loosen TPS fixing screws. 3. Turn ignition on. 4. Adjust TPS position while throttle valve is FULLY closed, using a volt meter, to specified voltage. 5. tighten fixing screws.

The voltage is specified as within a tolerance of from 0.45 to 0.55 volts. You should have no trouble in setting things at exactly half a volt.
----- Note this tolerance which should cover any cheap meter not being exactly accurate. However most are surprisingly good.
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Old 08-23-2006, 07:18 PM
rayford rayford is offline
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Well, Trevor, I think I got the TPS set right at least as close as I can with that goofy digital meter I have, it jumps around so much it is hard to get it to sit still long enough to tighten the screws, and that sensor must be very sensitive to any little movement, I think I got it set at about .54 ,, hopefully that is close enough since I don't know for sure if I read the meter right,, But the car works great other than if I drive 5 miles and stop it seems to idle at around 2000 or a very short while and then comes down to somewhere around 800. After I messed with the TPS I got a code on it but I unhooked the battery and now all I have is the knock sensor and oxygen sensor so I am going to replace those and see if the does away with that annoying light. Thanks. Vernon.
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Old 08-24-2006, 04:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayford
Well, Trevor, I think I got the TPS set right at least as close as I can with that goofy digital meter I have, it jumps around so much it is hard to get it to sit still long enough to tighten the screws, and that sensor must be very sensitive to any little movement, I think I got it set at about .54 ,, hopefully that is close enough since I don't know for sure if I read the meter right.

But the car works great other than if I drive 5 miles and stop it Thanks. Vernon.
All appears OK as far as the TPS is concerned. A digital meter will jump the end digits as you describe, as only small increments are involved. As long as you could read a steady .54 Volts after you tightened things up all should be spot on.
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