Lets talk about this annoying hot start problem... - Page 4

JIMSVX · #46 04-16-2006, 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JIMSVX

Today I installed the Starter Relay Bypass mod........

I forgot to mention that when I did the mod yesterday I also added a fuse in the +12V lead to protect the wiring. Harvey mentioned this in an earlier post 5 years ago when this mod was being discussed. http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...47&postcount=9

When I installed the relay I used the 12V connection on the starter and added a 30A fuse using a Radio Shack inline fuse holder p/n 270-1234 ($2.49). It uses the standard blade fuses and comes with 10Ga pigtails that were long enough to reach from the 12V starter terminal to the relay that I mounted on the firewall.

Again, thanks for everyone's help!

Beav · #47 04-23-2006, 02:37 PM

Y'all (with the exception of Trevor) have missed the point entirely! Jumpin' Jaheesus! Y'all waste more dang time and ink pursuing bs alternatives.

There isn't one, single, magic bullet to kill the problem(s) because there isn't one, single problem. My problem is/was different than some others so my temporary work-around won't solve all issues. HOWEVER, my instructions to perform voltage drop tests are spot on and the absolute correct way to diagnose an electrical fault. PERIOD. Unless the fault is intermittent a voltage drop test is DEAD ACCURATE and extremely simple.

This "until someone figures out what the real problem is" mentality is exactly what parts stores prey on. Yeah, they'll hook up a scanner for free and tell you, say... "Code P0401, insufficient EGR flow" then sell you an egr valve for $85.00. After you replace it and the light comes back on they tell you "Oh, well" (it's not our money. You got what you paid for.) The problem could be anything, including a plugged egr tube that doesn't require any parts to correct.

If the person I referred to wishes to verify my diagnostic claim I'll leave to him to do so. He'd had a intermittent no-start problem like a lot of us. He'd hit the key 3-40 times before he could start it. Less than two minutes with a voltmeter and I found his voltage drop within an inch of the battery terminal. Maybe two minutes later it was fixed.

Trevor · #48 04-23-2006, 03:56 PM

Jumpin' Jaheesus! Y'all waste more dang time and ink pursuing bs alternatives.

There isn't one, single, magic bullet to kill the problem(s) because there isn't one, single problem. My problem is/was different than some others so my temporary work-around won't solve all issues. HOWEVER, my instructions to perform voltage drop tests are spot on and the absolute correct way to diagnose an electrical fault. PERIOD. Unless the fault is intermittent a voltage drop test is DEAD ACCURATE and extremely simple.

.[/QUOTE]

Above are words from THE EXPERT.

When will they ever learn ????????????

You have my sympathy Beav. What is more you should receive special thanks for wasting so much "ink" !!!!

The one that gets my goat is the alleged alternator "Upgrade". Increases of two volts are talked about by throwing extra copper at what must be an existing fault. If there is a significant voltage drop, there must be untoward resistance somewhere and you Beav, have clearly advised how to find it. The proper fix is to correct the fault not add band aids. In the event that a high output alternator has been fitted, voltage drop should be carefully checked and exact points of loss identified for exact corrective measures.

dannmarr · #49 04-23-2006, 06:49 PM

[QUOTE]When will they ever learn ???????????? by Trevor[QUOTE]
Can you please tell me what are YOU trying to prove????
That you are smarter and we are idiots??????

Trevor · #50 04-23-2006, 07:12 PM

[QUOTE=dannmarr][QUOTE]When will they ever learn ???????????? by Trevor

Quote:

Can you please tell me what are YOU trying to prove????
That you are smarter and we are idiots??????

I have stated nothing in respect of myself. What I do say is, take notice of good advice from an expert i.e. Beav, when it is given. Yes, if you like, I believe he has proven himself to be smarter than you.

Electrophil · #51 04-23-2006, 10:05 PM

Yeah, he gave very sound advice. Troubleshoot before jumping into to the fire. You can't argue with pure logic.

dannmarr · #52 04-24-2006, 07:12 AM

I am talking about you (Trevor)not Beav. You have put in your two cents about this already, why are you continuously repeating what Beav has said? Yes his advise is accurate, but why don't you let the others decide what they want to do about their problem? This is a forum not a debate. If we want to use a band aid, who are you to interfere? I like this forum because advice is given and you take it or leave it. No one should be judged on their decision. Don't you agree? Your comments would have been acceptable if you did not put others down.

Trevor · #53 04-24-2006, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dannmarr

I am talking about you (Trevor)not Beav. You have put in your two cents about this already, why are you continuously repeating what Beav has said? Yes his advise is accurate, but why don't you let the others decide what they want to do about their problem? This is a forum not a debate. If we want to use a band aid, who are you to interfere? I like this forum because advice is given and you take it or leave it. No one should be judged on their decision. Don't you agree? Your comments would have been acceptable if you did not put others down.

I would prefer to address you personally, but you have not afforded me that courtesy.

My aside i.e. “will they ever learn”, was the result of frustration, I apologise to all who may have a thin skin.

The thread has become completely confusing. Beav was trying to be of maximum assistance by straightening out the issue.

My intention was the same, by backing him up and getting things back on track. In point of fact to end the confusing DEBATE which HAD arisen. Think otherwise if you wish. That is your prerogative.

The important issue here is that a difficult intermittent problem, together with the way it was fixed, using a slave relay, as posted some time ago by Beav, has been and still is taken out of context. But many do not appear to have taken this in and the effect keeps recurring, with negative results. After this further explanation, with respect I repeat, when will they ever learn.

Sincerely, Trevor. *<(

msvx95 · #54 12-21-2006, 04:49 AM

Well I spent 15 minutes turning the key last night in the parking lot and....nothing...I was a bit irritated. So pardon my inexperience with circuitry but could you tell me where to place the test probes and what I'm looking for on the volt meter again? I disconnected the starter...I was ready to try to remove it, but I'm having a hell of a time reaching the bolts with a wrench...I'd rather find the electrical fault first at this point. Am I touching positive battery terminal to the terminal on the starter with the rubber boot or which connection? Trevor or Beav, your assistance please would be much appreciated.
Also how would I check the ignition switch since alot of others have replaced this and it was their problem.

Thanks much.

Dessertrunner · #55 12-21-2006, 12:11 PM

Matt the fastest why to find out if it is a problem with the Netrul/Park switch is to hold the key in the starter position to crank the car then while holding move the gear stick between netural/Park. If the problem is the gear selector as soon as you move the gear shift the car will start. Ikke had exactly the same problem and now he can start the car by this method till he gets the part to fix it properly. He had also purchased a brand new starter which made no difference and the local deal was not able to help him.
Tony

msvx95 · #56 12-21-2006, 12:26 PM

I tried to start in Park and in Neutral...nothing happened...are you saying start the car as I'm moving the gear selector from P to N or N to P??

Dessertrunner · #57 12-21-2006, 01:42 PM

Matt hold the key on to crank the car and move the gear stick at the same time. If the Park/Neturel switch is faulty the the car will start when you find the right position for the lever. Remember move the gear stick at the "Same" time as you hold the key in the crank engine position.
Tony

Beav · #58 12-28-2006, 06:13 PM

I hope this helps:

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...017#post444017

Trevor · #59 12-29-2006, 12:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beav

I hope this helps:

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...017#post444017

Thanks to Beav It certainly should do. Check in particular for voltage drop on the solenoid control circuit, which Beav has shown as a violet/putple wire.

Beav · #60 12-29-2006, 05:57 AM

BTW, no reason to sweat over matching a relay to the system. Instead of removing the solenoid trigger wire from the solenoid and placing it on the relay trigger terminal, just install a jumper from the solenoid trigger terminal to the relay instead. The relay gets triggered, the OE circuit remains intact and 12vdc is assured at the solenoid. Simple.