4EAT failure? - Page 5

Austin · #61 08-06-2012, 02:54 PM

Just the latest update on this:

First of all, I mentioned earlier that the Fozzy transmission had some burnt fluid - I was wrong about that. It was perfectly fine.

Secondly, the car is TECHNICALLY drivable now but...

...my nephew accidentally over torqued a pan bolt and cut the gasket so I'm leaking ATF.

Gotta get a new gasket and re-seal the pan. That's not that big a deal, but...

...my new rear diff is binding REALLY badly now! Not sure what the deal is. It seems to be the driver's side (left rear) wheel that's catching though. It's the same noise I used to hear with the original rear diff, but that was only on ~90° turns in parking lots, etc. Now it does it even with the wheels straight and it does it just crawling either forward or backward. It's very audible from the outside too. It's also VISIBLE from the outside as the left rear wheel will stop moving and then -BANG!- it'll jump back into motion.

I put in the FWD fuse and the car ran great. So the tranny itself is good. In fact it's EXCELLENT. My brother-in-law was very impressed with how smooth and solid it was. We didn't have time to check out the rear diff, but I wonder if this might be the problem:

The car was wrecked a long time ago (previous, previous owner) and there's a bent stabilizer bar on the rear left. Also the rear axle wouldn't come out of the hub when we were taking out the old diff. Couldn't break the axle nut loose either. So I'm wondering if that impact is causing the axle to enter the rear diff juuuuuuuuuuuuuuusssssst wrong enough to cause it to bind somehow?

For now though, TECHNICALLY, the car is drivable. I just have to keep it in FWD, expect a giant cloud of burning ATF, and know that I'm taking my life in my own hands because of a huge brake leak I can't track down.

At least the big piece is done and only requires a new gasket. I should make my nephew pay for it. :P

Oh - also, I'm not sure if it's been mentioned in any of the swap write ups but for anyone swapping in a '98 Forester tranny:

• You'll need the neutral safety switch from the old tranny (has to be repositioned a bit too, slightly different mounting point but same bolt holes)
• There's a sensor on top of the tranny just behind the bell housing that has to be swapped out for the SVX one - has different pins
• If the pan on the "new" tranny is damaged, you can 100% swap in the old SVX pan (kind of a "duh" comment, but it was something I ran up against)

oab_au · #62 08-06-2012, 06:44 PM

Well that just sounds like the transfer clutch is applying. Do you get any codes for the C solenoid?

Harvey.

Austin · #63 08-06-2012, 09:48 PM

Oh! I don't know. I need to get an OBDII scanner I reckon. Great, even MORE money to spend on this damned car!

I realize you can get them relatively cheaply now (~$50 or so) but this thing is nickle-diming me to death!

Can't wait to see what it's going to cost me to fix what I suspect is a broken/leaking brake line buried in my rocker panel.

Tapani · #64 08-06-2012, 11:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Austin

...my new rear diff is binding REALLY badly now!

Now it does it even with the wheels straight and it does it just crawling either forward or backward.

I put in the FWD fuse and the car ran great.

Are you sure you have the same gearing in both diffs?

Tapani

huck369 · #65 08-07-2012, 05:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tapani

Are you sure you have the same gearing in both diffs?

Tapani

This was my thought too....Did you count the ring and pinion gears in the read Diff Dave brought you?(maybe it wasn't a 4.44)
And are you sure you put the correct rear diff back in?

I'd just remove the rear section of drive shaft and drive it for a while, so your wallet can recoop....not like you have to worry about snow anytime soon

92 SVX · #66 08-07-2012, 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Austin

Oh! I don't know. I need to get an OBDII scanner I reckon. Great, even MORE money to spend on this damned car!

I realize you can get them relatively cheaply now (~$50 or so) but this thing is nickle-diming me to death!

Can't wait to see what it's going to cost me to fix what I suspect is a broken/leaking brake line buried in my rocker panel.

Does the 96 have the blinking power light on the dash?

when you first start the car if there is a trans code it blinks 16 times.

on the earlier cars you can then check the codes manually using a combination of the manual button and shifter lever position. It is in the how to section I believe.

icingdeath88 · #67 08-07-2012, 11:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 92 SVX

Does the 96 have the blinking power light on the dash?

when you first start the car if there is a trans code it blinks 16 times.

on the earlier cars you can then check the codes manually using a combination of the manual button and shifter lever position. It is in the how to section I believe.

I think the 96 and 97s would blink the "AT Temp" light instead because they don't have the green "power" light.

Hocrest · #68 08-07-2012, 03:05 PM

Did you put gear oil in the diff? If it's bad let me know and I'll refund you.

Blacky · #69 08-07-2012, 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hocrest

Did you put gear oil in the diff? If it's bad let me know and I'll refund you.

My friend did that to a beautifully rebuilt diff for his 1971 Datsun 240Z which blew up in a few hours. His comment was "Oh I thought they shipped them with fluid already in them".

Austin · #70 08-07-2012, 11:48 PM

No blinking lights on dash.

100% sure the rear diff has gear oil.

100% sure it's the "new" rear diff with the 4.44s.

Can I just continue to drive it in FWD mode w/out removing the rear drive shaft? Or does that rear drive shaft still turn w/ the FWD fuse in?

No problem Dave, I'll let you know if the rear diff is bad... I tend to suspect it's something else.

huck369 · #71 08-08-2012, 05:11 AM

transfer clutches won't bind when going straight, which make me believe that the rear diff is the wrong gears....(unless the tires don't match)

You can keep running it with just the fuse in, but the drive shaft will always turn when the car is moving, and if it is turning at a different speed than the front, will wear on the transfer clutches.

I'll try to call you tonight sometime (of you call me)

Tapani · #72 08-08-2012, 07:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by huck369

believe that the rear diff is the wrong gears

Count the ring gear teeth thru the plug hole. Mark one and then use a screw driver to rotate the diff one tooth at a time.

Tapani

Austin · #73 08-15-2012, 09:40 PM

Been SUPER busy with work lately and haven't taken any time to get out in the driveway under the car. I'll have to check the # of teeth. I'm too much of a noob to know what a "ring gear" is, but I'll look it up and get to countin'.

Thanks for everyone's input/help!