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#16
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Re: crank pulley and pin
You can use a pulley from just about any late model subaru. Maybe you can get a stock one locally from someone who "upgraded" to a one piece or underdrive.
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Matt Locker Link 2015 BRZ Limited 6MT 92 Ebony LS-L ECUtune Stage2av1, Z32 MAF, 370cc injectors, TomsSVX intake, BontragerWorks 22mm RSB #003, HID Hi and Lo beams, OT endlink and bushing mods, PWR Aluminum radiator, Harvey's QC shift kit, 2.5" flowmaster 80 exhaust, 17" Michelin Pilot Sport A/S, Poly sway bar bushings, Slotted Bradi rotors, AFBeefcake powdercoated calipers, 97 grill, and a huge set of air horns. 300,000 miles and counting 92 Ebony LS-L. ecutune stage1v4, motorsport 1pc pulley. Garage Queen - sold to Dad in upstate NY 155,000 miles 19 Subaru Ascent Premium - -Hers !. 89 DL 4x4 little red wagon - a.k.a. The immortal suby. 275k R.I.P. |
#17
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Re: crank pulley and pin
kartboy pulley arrived today along with the woodruff it's exactly the same as the stock pulley as far as fitment is concerned ive already got everthing pulled apart so ill start putting the new stuff on later today |
#18
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Re: crank pulley and pin
I had hoped it would fit, good to see they are identical !
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#19
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Re: crank pulley and pin
Does anyone besides me believe that if the bolt was torqued down a bit more the problem with the "key, pulley, etc" would never happen?
I bought a new Subaru legacy in 1990 and when it was time for the "40,000 mile, 40 weeks after I purchased it, service-timing belt, etc I took it to a dealer to do it to "preserve" the warranty. They said if I didn't the warranty would be void. A few thousand miles later, I had the "key-pulley" problem and they simply said it was pretty common. That was the last time it went to the "experts". 300,000 miles later with the Legacy and about 160,000 SVX miles with removal and reinstalling the "big old pulley" no more problems, although I have removed and reinstalled the thing at least 20 times on various different motors. However, I always torque it down pretty good... with a big break-over bar and a big mauler! At least 460,000 miles later logic tells me when I do it like that, it "ain't" going anywhere... and it hasn't so far. Keith |
#20
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Re: crank pulley and pin
Quote:
Maybe I should adopt your hammer method. Or I could stomp on the ratchet to give it enough "foot pounds" I've had an aluminum pulley strip out after being in place for many years and I used the factory torque settings with a good torque wrench.
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Matt Locker Link 2015 BRZ Limited 6MT 92 Ebony LS-L ECUtune Stage2av1, Z32 MAF, 370cc injectors, TomsSVX intake, BontragerWorks 22mm RSB #003, HID Hi and Lo beams, OT endlink and bushing mods, PWR Aluminum radiator, Harvey's QC shift kit, 2.5" flowmaster 80 exhaust, 17" Michelin Pilot Sport A/S, Poly sway bar bushings, Slotted Bradi rotors, AFBeefcake powdercoated calipers, 97 grill, and a huge set of air horns. 300,000 miles and counting 92 Ebony LS-L. ecutune stage1v4, motorsport 1pc pulley. Garage Queen - sold to Dad in upstate NY 155,000 miles 19 Subaru Ascent Premium - -Hers !. 89 DL 4x4 little red wagon - a.k.a. The immortal suby. 275k R.I.P. |
#21
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Re: crank pulley and pin
How about more normal torque and some thread locker ?
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#22
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Re: crank pulley and pin
+1 on that. Prime cause is, not tight enough. Positive fix is mounting the key and pulley with a "lock tight pulley mount" product. This fills any space between the parts, that allow the movement to start. Should also be used on camshaft pulley keys and mounts.
Harvey.
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One Arm Bloke. Tell it like it is! 95 Lsi. Bordeaux Pearl, Aust. RHD.149,000Kls Subaru BBS wheels. 97 Liberty GX Auto sedan. 320,000Kls. 04 Liberty 30R Auto Premium. 92.000kls. |
#23
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Re: crank pulley and pin
Quote:
Keith |
#24
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Re: crank pulley and pin
all back together - used threadlock on the bolt and torqued to factory spec
all is well - thanks for all your help guys |
#25
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Re: crank pulley and pin
Why...
Keith |
#26
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Re: crank pulley and pin
Because I'd rather torque something to factory spec and lock it there with thread locker than overtorque something, possibly stripping the threads or snapping the head of the bolt off . Torque values are set by the engineers for a reason, and I use them where provided. A properly torqued bolt with threadlocker is not going to back out. IMHO, play between the woodruff key and the pulley is what chips and eventually elongates the keyway, not a loose crank bolt.
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#27
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Re: crank pulley and pin
Quote:
Using a product to fill this backlash will prevent this. Particular the cam shaft pulley fit, of a round key in a square grove. Harvey.
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One Arm Bloke. Tell it like it is! 95 Lsi. Bordeaux Pearl, Aust. RHD.149,000Kls Subaru BBS wheels. 97 Liberty GX Auto sedan. 320,000Kls. 04 Liberty 30R Auto Premium. 92.000kls. |
#28
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Re: crank pulley and pin
What is the correct torque for the bolt?
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Peter ART Cryogenic/Slotted Rotors, Stainless Steel Brake Lines, PWR Radiator, Tranny cooler, Stebro, Earthworm's Poly Differential/front & rear swaybar bushings, Koni Inserts and Mychailo SVX Sport Springs all 4 corners, Indigo Blue paint. Liquid Silver Wheels. |
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