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#1
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Leaking head gasket found.
I have removed more than I had too. I am down to the ac compressor tying to do that without draining. Still have to pull the connnector on the speed sensor and the flexplate bolts are a pain. Anyone that has change valve cover gaskets on this engine has a lot of patience. It take forever to get the bottom bolts out.
Last edited by svx_commuter; 07-30-2002 at 05:56 AM. |
#2
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you pulled the motor just to replace the valve cover gaskets? I did it in an afternoon w/ the engine in the car. It was a little uncomfortable at times (100w bulb in a rough service light burnt the h377 out of me) but nowhere near the pain your going through. BTW for the flex plate bolts I just put a shallow socket on the end of a flexible wratchet and bam they were out. took less than 5 minutes.
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#3
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Your good! I am really gooing for the head gaskets. I have heard that some people do that without pulling engine also. I used a long, thin, 12mm box wrench to get the FlexPlate bolts out. I could not come up with any combination of socket parts to get the F-P bolts out. What is a flexible ratchet?
I got the engine out today. One of the heads is off. I think I see where the gasket was leaking. |
#4
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Good going John!
Got your PM and responded to it.
Hope everything goes smoothly for you. Todd
__________________
Down to none |
#5
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Quote:
another way to get the bolts out is to hook a series of extensions and a universal up and route it from the front of the motor between the alternator and ps pump. |
#6
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I put a few pictures of the engine in my locker
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#7
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Quote:
I took the flex plate bolts out at the bottom of the engine???? |
#8
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Quote:
Good luck with your repair job. Todd
__________________
Down to none |
#9
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I found my damaged head gasket. The link below goes to the locker.
http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/fil...muter/3713.JPG Just a reminder, I did this damage when my exhaust pipes (near the exhaust header) hit the ground hard about a 15 months ago. It just got a lot worse more recently when I had the cooling system down for 10 days while doing water pump, timing belt oil pump. I think the block corroded just a little more from the air that got in the engine, instead of the coolant. That was enough for the leak to get bigger and blow apart the radiator. I also bent the cyclinder block. The outer wall of the block that would be the top of the engine when looking in the engine compartment is pushed up. I don't how far it got pushed but it isn't flat anymore. It looks very close to the .002 for flatness. I am not sure if it can be machined as an assembly. I really do not want to take apart the block assy. |
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