Switching Trans Fluid Type

I need help with this dilema, so I'm open for opinions:

My 1997 LSI with 99k has the original trans and from what I can tell, the trans fluid has not been changed either. It seems to be shifting fine right now too.

I would like to drain/change all the current fluid out and replace it with Redline or Mobil One as I hear these fluid handle heat better.

(Yes, I plan to install a secondary trans cooler and filter too)

I think this would be a good move, but I am getting mixed signals that changing the fluid type at this point would not be a good thing for the unit.

Someone else told me that after they had their tranny flushed and fluid changed, a fairly new trans died after 10k.

Others have said that the synthetics should only be used if they have been in since the beginning, and surely NOT for a trans that has had organic fluid for the past 99k.

All opinions, facts, and experiences appreciated!

Thanks!

[lee]

Originally posted by gschabel
I need help with this dilema, so I'm open for opinions:
All opinions, facts, and experiences appreciated!

well you asked for it now!

Regular dino based fluids (I'm presuming you had Dexron III in there) may build up a layer of gunk (tech term there) at the seals. This layer of gunk helps the seal perform its sealing function. When a synthetic (group IV/V based fluid like Mobil 1, redline, Amsoil) is put in the system, it WILL clean off the gunk. If the seal is hardened, then it will begin to leak.

There are both internal and external seals that can leak, and while I'm not an automatic transmission technician, the internal seal leaks can be bad news. For people considering changing their engine oil to synthetic there are seal conditioners that should be run first. I assume the same is true for a transmission. try an internet search on Auto-rx. I have no first hand knowledge of how these seal conditioners work, if at all, mostly repeating things I've accumulated in my head over time.

Disclaimer: The above is purely opinion.

Good info!

Thanks much................ next................!!!!!

[Ron Mummert]

I went through the same mental anguish at 100K with my '92. The tranny had been replaced "sometime" before I bought the car at 76K, & had Dextron III (I guess) in it. I'd put a tranny cooler in earlier, so at 100K decided to go with a T-Tech total flush, new external filter & stayed with Dextron. 10K later no problems.
Now, of course, I'll be afraid to put it in gear in the morning.

Ron.

[nubs]

I Changed my 92 with 85k on it over to Amsoil synthetic's. I have had no problem's for 20k more.

Personally, I wouldn't bother with the expensive synthetic fluid, especially if the fluid smells burnt.

Either go to a Chrysler dealer or your local parts store and buy ATF + 3 transmission fluid. Chrysler designed thsi fluid due to the extreme heat they were running into with their transmissions. I put it in my old SVX and it shifted so much better, it was hard to imagine. It has a break down point only a few degrees less than synthetic and costs only a small amount more than Dexron III.

If your clutches are slipping, synthetic fluid will amplify the effect immensely.

[svx_commuter]

Originally posted by nevermind65

Either go to a Chrysler dealer or your local parts store and buy ATF + 3 transmission fluid. Chrysler designed thsi fluid

How many miles have you gone with this fluid?

started using it at 40k miles. I sold the car 2 weeks ago at 112k miles. I just put it in my parents Impreza and my wifes Integra.

[lee]

I can't speak with personal knowledge of what ATF +3 will or won't do. However, Subaru specified a DEXRON II fluid. Here's some quotes I lifted from oil company pages. FYI, Mobil, Chevron, Kendall, Penzoil, Castrol, Redline and Shell all seem to agree on this point, the single outsider I have found is Amsoil, but YMMV.

From Kendall: "Beware of any fluid claiming to meet both DEXRON®-III and ATF+3® and/or any additive that claims to modify DEXRON®-III to ATF+3® specifications. It is not possible to blend a fluid to meet both specifications, nor is it possible to modify one to meet the other."

From Chevron: "ATF+3 Automatic Transmission Fluid is designed for use in all Chrysler automatic transmissions and automatic transaxles where a Mopar ATF PLUS, ATF+2 or ATF+3 fluid is specified. It is not recommended for use in transmissions specifying either DEXRON® or MERCON® type fluids."

From Redline: "The use of an improper fluid could cause torque converter shudder or harsh shifting."

I'm not a trans expert by any means, so use whatever you feel is the right fluid. I can say this though.

My brother works for LuK and they make transmissions for Chrysler, GM, Ford and BMW currently. He is in the testing department. They test components, then analyze the fluid and components for wear etc. If you buy Ford trans fluid, it is nothing more than Chrysler fluid put in a Ford container. Due to the resistance to heat, Ford is now using this fluid.

Use what you like. I can only go by my personal use, and it has worked great for me. I put 74k miles on my trans with this fluid and my trans was never rebuilt or modified in any way. It had 112k when I sold the car. Considering many have gone through multiple transmissions already, the fluid couldn't have hurt it too much.

I'll second hte chrysler fluid. Only thing is its expensive. Course, I'd really go Mobil 1 synthetic.

- Ca$h

[sfsvx]

< suddenly feeling the need to veer ever so slightly off topic > Can anyone here who knows about these things explain why one ATF is different from another, and what is different about transmissions that one needs one type and another needs another?

Having a '92 with 100k on the original tranny, this topic interests me also.

It originally amounted to what the clutch material was made out of. That is about all I know.

When they came out with the OD transmissions, that is when all these differnt types started emerging. Some had to do with the torque converter more than the actual transmission.

I do know Chrysler came out with theirs because they were having massive problems in the 80's and 90's with heat build-up and eventually, trans meltdown. If you didn't change your fluid every 15-25k in a Chrysler, you wouldn't make it to 50k on the original trans. They came out with their own style in 1997 called ATF +3. It had certain friction modifiers and was made to handle heat without burning. It wrked quite well. In 2000, they came out with ATF + 4, which is the synthetic version of ATF + 3. Unfortunately, when they tried it in their earlier vehicles, it caused the convertor to slip due to the fluid being too "slippery". I tried it briefly in my SVX. It worked quite well, but it seemed to have a bit of a shutter upon take-off. I drained part of the fluid and went with a 50/50 ratio. It stopped the small shuttering, most likely eminating from the converter.

The ATF + 3 has worked great the whole time. It made the car shift so much nicer, it was unbelievable. I now see that Castrol and Aamco make the ATF + 3. I used Chrysler fluid at $3/quart. The ATF + 4 was about $6/quart, and at the amount the SVX takes, that was some serious cash.

[LarryIII]

GSchabel,

When I bought my '92 Pearl it had 96,000 miles on it.
I did not flush the old tranny fluid. I changed it evry 3000 miles with synth. ATF. I changed the ATF filter evry 6000 miles. The tranny seals initially leaked but have stopped. I now have 110,000 miles on this car. I have also changed the rear diffy fluid to synth. type. Also reverse flush the cooling system and put in the best antifreeze you can. I like Prestone. I used Mobil synth ATF and also Mobil 1 synth oil in the engine. I have put 3000 miles on this SVX since it developed a case of "Duty Solenoid A".

Welcome to the SVX Family.
Where is Melville, NY ? I grew up in NYC.

Larry Singer

Thanks everyone!! Keep those ideas, experiences, and opinions coming!!


Larry,

Melville is part of Huntington, on "the Island"

regards!