What tools to buy

[WhatIsThisIDont]

It might just be a brief moment of macho overestimation of my skill, but I'm thinking I should be able to tackle my timing job, valve cover gaskets, and a more in depth tuneup for plugs and PCV valve.

The only problem is that I have a cheap socket set (and by set, I mean cardboard box of random sockets with all of the 10mm missing anytime I need one).

I'm planning on the full timing job, so all the idlers, the hydraulic tensioner, water pump, and seals.


I figure I'll need:

- Decent metric set. 22ish mm for the crank pulley. Probably regular and deep well

- Torque Wrench that'll handle the torque of said crank pulley.

- Gear/pulley puller

- Extensions and universals

- Mechanics gloves

- Jack and stands

- my body weight in oil dry



Anything I'm missing that can make this vastly easier?

-Randy

[92 SVX]

While this set wont have all the tools needed Have you looked at the large Stanley tools set at wal-mart, I think its $75 or so, it includes the 1/4 ratchet and socket set, the 3/8's ratchet set, and the 1/2 ratchet set. I could be wrong on the price though.


Don't forget the antifreeze/coolant. If you buy the straight antifreeze, ie not the 50/50 mix get an equal number of gallons of distilled water. You do not want tap water in your engine, the minerals will corrode the inside of your engine.

[B 4 You]

Go to harbor freight and buy a half inch drive breaker bar. They're like ten bucks and way cheaper to break than your torque wrench. Hell, get all your stuff there. When you break it, take it in and they'll give you a new one for free.

PS, if you still have your stock lug nut wrench in the trunk, it's the perfect size to wedge in the access port on top of the engine to get the crank pulley off

[svxfiles]

Originally Posted by WhatIsThisIDont

It might just be a brief moment of macho overestimation of my skill, but I'm thinking I should be able to tackle my timing job, valve cover gaskets, and a more in depth tuneup for plugs and PCV valve.

The only problem is that I have a cheap socket set (and by set, I mean cardboard box of random sockets with all of the 10mm missing anytime I need one).

I'm planning on the full timing job, so all the idlers, the hydraulic tensioner, water pump, and seals.


I figure I'll need:

- Decent metric set. 22ish mm for the crank pulley. Probably regular and deep well

- Torque Wrench that'll handle the torque of said crank pulley.

- Gear/pulley puller
- Extensions and universals- Mechanics gloves
- Jack and stands

- my body weight in oil dry



Anything I'm missing that can make this vastly easier?

-Randy

Go to Sears, to buy a decent 3/8" socket set,
Harbor Freight is fine for a 150' torque wrench,
the things in silver are not needed for the job you want to do.
A 1/4" rachet set also from Sears, and a 10mm Geardrive short racheting box end would save you time.

[wdb]

Originally Posted by B 4 You

Go to harbor freight and buy a half inch drive breaker bar. They're like ten bucks and way cheaper to break than your torque wrench. Hell, get all your stuff there. When you break it, take it in and they'll give you a new one for free.

I have not bought any Harbor Freight tools so maybe I shouldn't comment, but...

Originally Posted by svxfiles

Go to Sears, to buy a decent 3/8" socket set,
Harbor Freight is fine for a 150' torque wrench,
the things in silver are not needed for the job you want to do.
A 1/4" rachet set also from Sears, and a 10mm Geardrive short racheting box end would save you time.

...Sears will replace your broken (Craftsman brand) tools for free too, and the quality is very good. I have a 3/8" Craftsman ratchet and socket set that is over 40 years old at this point and carried me through an 8-year career as a car mechanic. Way back there somewhere in my mechanic days I ground the 1/2" socket down to about half its original thickness so it would fit a tight space, and it still hasn't cracked to this day.

There is nothing quite so satisfying as using a good tool, nor quite so frustrating as using a bad one. For the stuff you'll use a lot -- 1/4" and 3/8" socket items for example -- be sure to get quality stuff that works and lasts.

[gwynethh]

If you are not in a hurry keep an eye on tool sets from Sears. You can get some really nice sets at nicely reduced prices every once and a while. Valve cover gaskets may be a bit easier with 1. a set of ramps 2. some really shallow sockets like those pass threw design ones (like Gearwrench ones).

[svxfiles]

Originally Posted by wdb

I have not bought any Harbor Freight tools so maybe I shouldn't comment, but...
...Sears will replace your broken (Craftsman brand) tools for free too, and the quality is very good. I have a 3/8" Craftsman ratchet and socket set that is over 40 years old at this point and carried me through an 8-year career as a car mechanic. Way back there somewhere in my mechanic days I ground the 1/2" socket down to about half its original thickness so it would fit a tight space, and it still hasn't cracked to this day.

There is nothing quite so satisfying as using a good tool, nor quite so frustrating as using a bad one. For the stuff you'll use a lot -- 1/4" and 3/8" socket items for example -- be sure to get quality stuff that works and lasts.

Truer words have never been said!

Since I am on a budget, I buy Craftsman tools for most of my work, Snap On is the best but about three times the price.
If I buy some Harbur Freight stuff it's so that I can make a specialty wrench, you know, bend a 17mm and trim off two inches so that it fits an SVX application.

[WhatIsThisIDont]

Thanks for the insight, guys. I'll probably get a decent set of sockets to start with since I have 2 Subarus to bring back to life just this summer, with who knows how many more to come.

I might have a Subaru addiction...


Other than that, for the SVX timing job, are there any other torque specs that have to be very close? Or is everything just torque-til-tight?

[svxfiles]

Originally Posted by WhatIsThisIDont

Thanks for the insight, guys. I'll probably get a decent set of sockets to start with since I have 2 Subarus to bring back to life just this summer, with who knows how many more to come.

I might have a Subaru addiction...


Other than that, for the SVX timing job, are there any other torque specs that have to be very close? Or is everything just torque-til-tight?

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/fil...iles/44342.doc

[WhatIsThisIDont]

I'm not used to such a quick response here lol. I'm not complaining though Thanks as always!

[lsupcar]

Originally Posted by B 4 You

Go to harbor freight and buy a half inch drive breaker bar. They're like ten bucks and way cheaper to break than your torque wrench. Hell, get all your stuff there. When you break it, take it in and they'll give you a new one for free.

PS, if you still have your stock lug nut wrench in the trunk, it's the perfect size to wedge in the access port on top of the engine to get the crank pulley off

Where is this access port on the top of the engine that keeps the engine from rotating?
Thanks.

[Tireiron]

right side back top of the engine, just in front of the bellhousing. There is a rubber plug in it that pulls out and gives access to the flexplate.

[lsupcar]

Thanks Tireiron.

[theflystyle]

This just went on sale:
http://www.harborfreight.com/profess...html?hftref=cj

Use this coupon for 20% off and its even better:
http://www.harborfreight.com/20off-c...pons&hftref=cj

Here is a youtube video of the set:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zvXFfbHUxuk

[lsupcar]

Tireiron,
Is this the plug behind the diff dipstick you were referring to?
Thanks.