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  #1  
Old 01-26-2012, 07:47 PM
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alternator replacement

so i put a new alternator in and i've ran to a problem
power steering, parking brake, brake, and battery lights are on in the dash, but they all are working properly

it all worked fine until i got home and had to park...the serpentine belt fell off then...had to put it back on cuz i don't have the strength to turn the wheel without that!

so what have i done wrong that all those warning lights are on?!
why did it fall?!
(it did charge the battery tho)

thanks in advance
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  #2  
Old 01-26-2012, 07:58 PM
1986nate 1986nate is offline
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Re: alternator replacement

Make sure that you tightened everything in the tensioner assembly properly. I once made the mistake of forgetting to tighten the 12mm nut that holds the tensioner pulley tight. It backed itself off, and I had to put it and the belt back on. From the sounds of it, something definitely wasn't tight enough.
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Old 01-26-2012, 08:25 PM
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Re: alternator replacement

David,
did you check all of the pulleys to see if they spin freely?
This of course is done with the engine off, and the belt removed.
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Old 01-26-2012, 08:43 PM
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Re: alternator replacement

Also check to see if the crank pulley is separated. There is a rubber layer between the two metal layers. If you paint a line across the 3 layers, then run the car it will be real easy to see if they are staying together.
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  #5  
Old 01-26-2012, 11:50 PM
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Re: alternator replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1986nate View Post
Make sure that you tightened everything in the tensioner assembly properly. I once made the mistake of forgetting to tighten the 12mm nut that holds the tensioner pulley tight. It backed itself off, and I had to put it and the belt back on. From the sounds of it, something definitely wasn't tight enough.
i'll tighten it more that last time to see how it goes...do i have to tighten it just to take the squeal away? how would i know if it's tight enough?
Quote:
Originally Posted by svxfiles View Post
David,
did you check all of the pulleys to see if they spin freely?
This of course is done with the engine off, and the belt removed.
i did that right after it came off...everything spinning pretty good!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hocrest View Post
Also check to see if the crank pulley is separated. There is a rubber layer between the two metal layers. If you paint a line across the 3 layers, then run the car it will be real easy to see if they are staying together.
changed the timing belt a few weeks ago and i checked the crank pulley too...seemed very solid actually...


What about the warning lights? can it be that the connector to the alt is messed up?! cuz i wrestled with it to take it out....freaking subaru connectors
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Old 01-27-2012, 12:06 AM
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Re: alternator replacement

Could be that the new alternator is bad.
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  #7  
Old 01-27-2012, 12:18 AM
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Re: alternator replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by immortal_suby View Post
Could be that the new alternator is bad.
I have run into this issue a few times
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  #8  
Old 01-27-2012, 12:23 AM
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Re: alternator replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by immortal_suby View Post
Could be that the new alternator is bad.
bad alt lights the warning lights up?!
what is the connector for? on is for + to battery...what is the other one for?
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  #9  
Old 01-27-2012, 12:44 AM
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Re: alternator replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by david_12121 View Post
bad alt lights the warning lights up?!

What is the connector for? one is for + to battery...what is the other one for?

On the plastic connector, one that plugs into the side of the alternator wire is the field sense wire, that energizes the alternator when the ignition is on. Also monitors battery voltage and uses the regulator to supply additional voltage on demand

The other wire goes to the idiot light on the dash, turning it off when the alternator is charging.




If you need a new plug, they can be ordered from Electric Motor Service in Logan, WV. Their phone number is 800- 697-6070

The part number is 050-012252 and they go for $9.53 each plus shipping with no minimum.They cone with 3-4" of wires already attached so you can splice.

.
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  #10  
Old 01-27-2012, 05:10 AM
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Re: alternator replacement

Also look at the two smaller wires from the plug as they lead across the top of the alt and AC compressor. They get brittle and may have cracked.
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  #11  
Old 01-27-2012, 09:55 AM
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Re: alternator replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by svxcess View Post
On the plastic connector, one that plugs into the side of the alternator wire is the field sense wire, that energizes the alternator when the ignition is on. Also monitors battery voltage and uses the regulator to supply additional voltage on demand

The other wire goes to the idiot light on the dash, turning it off when the alternator is charging.




If you need a new plug, they can be ordered from Electric Motor Service in Logan, WV. Their phone number is 800- 697-6070

The part number is 050-012252 and they go for $9.53 each plus shipping with no minimum.They cone with 3-4" of wires already attached so you can splice.

.
+1 for this I had to replace this connector when I replaced my alt a few weeks ago. After replacing the alt, the light we still coming on. One of the wires was badly frayed right at the connector. I called this place and I had the new connector in a couple of days.
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  #12  
Old 01-27-2012, 03:48 PM
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Re: alternator replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by immortal_suby View Post
Could be that the new alternator is bad.
Quote:
Originally Posted by svxcess View Post
On the plastic connector, one that plugs into the side of the alternator wire is the field sense wire, that energizes the alternator when the ignition is on. Also monitors battery voltage and uses the regulator to supply additional voltage on demand
The other wire goes to the idiot light on the dash, turning it off when the alternator is charging.
.
so those are the reason for the dash lights...i actually did look up for the connector but couldn't find one
thanks...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hocrest View Post
Also look at the two smaller wires from the plug as they lead across the top of the alt and AC compressor. They get brittle and may have cracked.
they used to be fine even on the last alternator so i'm guessing the problem is from the connector...

how can i make sure that it's not short circuiting?
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  #13  
Old 01-27-2012, 06:42 PM
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Re: alternator replacement

I had the problem once after I changed the alt. I think moving the wires during the alt swap cracked the insulation and caused a short. If the plug and wire at that end are brittle get the new plug and dissect the wiring shroud until the wires become flexible. This may be a good time to go ahead and do SVXcess's alt wiring upgrade.
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  #14  
Old 01-27-2012, 07:05 PM
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Re: alternator replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hocrest View Post
I had the problem once after I changed the alt. I think moving the wires during the alt swap cracked the insulation and caused a short. If the plug and wire at that end are brittle get the new plug and dissect the wiring shroud until the wires become flexible. This may be a good time to go ahead and do svxcess's alternator wiring upgrade.
Which can be found HERE


.
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JFICX8659TH100216.....Date of Manufacture: November 16, 1995.....
Fuji Heavy Industries..Ōta North Plant....Ōta City,. Gunma Prefecture, Japan

In-Service Date: January 2, 1997



"The Pristine Green Polo Machine”
First Polo Green on the Network
First Clear front turn signals, JDM Alcyone hood emblem, rear panel, and BOXER engine cover on the Network (US) (2000)
First 5000K HID factory fog lights (2007)
First SVX JDM BBS wheels on a USDM SVX (2013)

HID lighting (5000K) for headlight and H3 fog lights, PIAA SuperExtreme 120W high beams, rebuilt EG33 longblock, Cometic head gaskets, Phase II flexplate, AMR aluminum radiator with custom silicone hoses, 160A high-output alternator in aluminum-ceramic coated case, new design alternator wiring upgrade v.4, rare factory headlight protectors, refinished JDM BBS mesh aluminum wheels and custom, polished billet aluminum new hex center caps, LED grille mod, R1 Concepts high-carbon cryo slotted rotors, Akebono ceramic pads, Goodridge S/S braided brake lines, Smallcar Stage 1 shift kit, ThermalTech aluminum/ceramic-coated valve covers, Energy Suspension urethane front & rear swaybar bushings, Bontrager22 rear swaybar with QS Components Chromoly Teflon/Kevlar endlinks, "$15.00/5 minute" suspension mod. Hella Supertone horns, Custom stainless steel exhaust system with 2" headpipes, Magnaflow cats, AeroTurbine AR25 resonator /AWD "Bullet" muffler.


R.I.P. 2010 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5 CVT...338,000 miles. Totaled by a 1,300 lb. COW March 4, 2016

2014 Hyundai Avante Limited ...178,000 miles. Actually quieter and smoother than the Outback

2007 Mazda Miata MX-5 PRHT...102,000 miles.
Plenty of parts, service and windshields.


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  #15  
Old 01-28-2012, 01:02 AM
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Re: alternator replacement

SCXcess wiring looks great and the fuse is really useful but you barely added 0.2 volts which IMO is mostly from the alt...i don't think that it was worth it

so is it safe to drive on it with the warning lights on? at least until i receive the new plug?
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