So I want to buy an SVX but...

[jetboy]

I need a wee bit of help in order to do it right'n tight. I've searched the forum quite a lot and found lots of great info (including the buyer's guide) but, I'm a bit overloaded, not very mech savvy (yet) and just need some things spelled out for me.

I hope you don't mind doing some spelling

The situation: Daily commute is over the fjord by boat, I can spend my monies on a performance touring car for longer hauls. The SVX is the obvious choice to pursue for a _wide_ array of reasons. There are no local units for sale, by today's exchange rate I have to pay 17-18k of your dollars in import tax. That tax is progressive with engine displacement, curb weight and first registration year so a 5 year old car that's even remotely related to a GT would easily be $50-80k just in import tax, save the actual cost and VAT.

That leaves we with around $15k to spend on the actual car and around here, Europe, they're about EUR 5-15k which is like 7-20k dollars or so. Which again means I must choose very wisely before I travel somewhere to actual test drive the unit.

Some questions:

1) What is better in terms of performance and finance? A car with low mileage (like ~50k/km) but no major service or a car with higher mileage (like ~150k/km) but with complete service history including major services? Given that everything else is equal, should there be a big price difference between these units?

2) I've centered on 94/95 as they are chippable yet have airbags on the passanger side. However, most cars I see in the classifieds from these years don't have that airbag anywhere visible. Are the Euro/German specs different from the US specs?

3) A Lot of them are advertised at 220HP. Again, some particular euro spec?

4) If I can't find a suitable one with passanger airbag, can such an airbag be easily retrofitted on an earlier model?

5) Really haven't seen that many rust complaints, may I conclude this is not a big problem on the SVX?

6) Just in case the family wants to hit the slopes, is it possible and feasable to mount roof racks without ruining the car or risk leaks?

7) Will a small chip-tune like ECUTune actually notably improve performance or is it just one out of many things that must be done?

Yea, I think that's just about round one. Feel free to add any anectode, opinion, projection...anything that can aid me in selecting the units to test drive.

Cheers

[icingdeath88]

Originally Posted by jetboy

1) What is better in terms of performance and finance? A car with low mileage (like ~50k/km) but no major service or a car with higher mileage (like ~150k/km) but with complete service history including major services? Given that everything else is equal, should there be a big price difference between these units?

2) I've centered on 94/95 as they are chippable yet have airbags on the passanger side. However, most cars I see in the classifieds from these years don't have that airbag anywhere visible. Are the Euro/German specs different from the US specs?

3) A Lot of them are advertised at 220HP. Again, some particular euro spec?

4) If I can't find a suitable one with passanger airbag, can such an airbag be easily retrofitted on an earlier model?

5) Really haven't seen that many rust complaints, may I conclude this is not a big problem on the SVX?

6) Just in case the family wants to hit the slopes, is it possible and feasable to mount roof racks without ruining the car or risk leaks?

7) Will a small chip-tune like ECUTune actually notably improve performance or is it just one out of many things that must be done?

I don't know all of the answers, but here's some of them:

3. All SVXes came with the same engine, the EG33, which makes about 230hp.

4. Yes you can retrofit the passenger side airbag onto a single airbag car, and it has been done. I know you need the airbag module, the dash, and the actual airbag itself, and probably some wiring as well.

5. Rust is an issue with these cars in many areas of the US, but it's not bad enough to start taking them off the road yet. The main problem area seems to be the wheel wells above the tires, so watch out for that. Cars in the southern US seem to be doing really well.

6. Some people have roof racks. At one time there was an Australian company that made them, but have since stopped.

7. The ECUTune chip will make a slight improvement. Big power with these cars is possible, but would require a lot more than that, both in terms of cost and effort.

[dcarrb]

I'm really not qualified to address most of your questions, but wanted to offer greetings and wish you well on your search.

1) My personal preference would be a well-maintained, high-mileage car.

5) Neither of my cars exhibits any sign of rust perforation. Seams, fasteners, and sheet metal inside the doors and quarter panels are spotless. (That said, the rear strut mounts in one came out looking like marine salvage.) In this regard, road salt is the kiss of death. If your prospective car comes from an area where salt is used on icy roadways, beware.

6) I've lowered the back seat and hauled 8-foot lumber with the trunk closed, so I imagine you could carry skis if your outing were limited to two passengers.

dcb

[jetboy]

Originally Posted by dcarrb

I'm really not qualified to address most of your questions, but wanted to offer greetings and wish you well on your search.

I think every owner is qualified.

Thank you both so far for your responses. I hope more people will chip in.

As for real performance gain I realize it is not cheap and must be done by properly skilled people. I was just wondering if replacing the ECU and transmission computer made any noticable difference at all.

And there's already a third passenger and probably a fourth in a few years, hence the skibox

[icingdeath88]

Originally Posted by jetboy

As for real performance gain I realize it is not cheap and must be done by properly skilled people. I was just wondering if replacing the ECU and transmission computer made any noticable difference at all.

It will make a noticeable, but slight, improvement.

[92 SVX]

Originally Posted by icingdeath88

It will make a noticeable, but slight, improvement.

I agree, I did the stage1 and tcu in feb 2011 and it feels better I would also suggest a rear antisway bar by nevin. That makes the car feel completely different and much better.

[jetboy]

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=54052

Is this the official schedule and does it mean that it should receive the major overhaul at every 96k/km (96k/km,192k/km,288k/km)?

[johnboy615]

That's the same schedule as my service book. My car's due through 120,000 miles around March next year, I'm saving up already!

[jetboy]

Originally Posted by johnboy615

That's the same schedule as my service book. My car's due through 120,000 miles around March next year, I'm saving up already!

Got any idea what it will cost?

Another question about passanger side airbags... I've seen some with a very notable lid on the dash and the I've seen tons of 94-97s with no visible lid or anything. Where did they stash that passanger side airbag?

[icingdeath88]

Originally Posted by jetboy

Another question about passanger side airbags... I've seen some with a very notable lid on the dash and the I've seen tons of 94-97s with no visible lid or anything. Where did they stash that passanger side airbag?

If they don't have the "lid" then they don't have an airbag over there.

[jetboy]

Originally Posted by icingdeath88

If they don't have the "lid" then they don't have an airbag over there.

So, judging from the pics, this one's got it: http://www.autoscout24.eu/Details.aspx?id=bjgdjcbgyqmn

and this one doesn't: http://www.autoscout24.eu/Details.aspx?id=bjfiddadxqtl

Because most of the post 1994 for sale in Europe right now don't appear to have it. I assume they were manufactured in 1992, 1993, early 1994 and not actually sold and registered until later?

Ah, does it say specifically anywhere accessible, or perhaps in the car papers, what CX-model it is? Or should I just get the serial number of potential objects and call Subaru to inquire?

Thanks a lot of putting up with these questions

[icingdeath88]

Honestly I don't remember much info specific to the Euro cars. There is a lot of variation between the different countries they were delivered to, and it's all quite confusing. There is a lot of info on the site, but you might have to search through some older threads for it. Or hopefully one of the Euro members will chime in with some more insight.

What do you mean by "CX model"? Most of the information for the US cars is contained in the VIN number.

[svxistentialist]

I can't be much help with Euro specs, only know the RHD cars really, but will offer some buying advice which you may find useful.

You are very welcome to the community!

Spelling it out below in green:

Originally Posted by jetboy

I need a wee bit of help in order to do it right'n tight. I've searched the forum quite a lot and found lots of great info (including the buyer's guide) but, I'm a bit overloaded, not very mech savvy (yet) and just need some things spelled out for me.

I hope you don't mind doing some spelling

The situation: Daily commute is over the fjord by boat, I can spend my monies on a performance touring car for longer hauls. The SVX is the obvious choice to pursue for a _wide_ array of reasons. There are no local units for sale, by today's exchange rate I have to pay 17-18k of your dollars in import tax. That tax is progressive with engine displacement, curb weight and first registration year so a 5 year old car that's even remotely related to a GT would easily be $50-80k just in import tax, save the actual cost and VAT.

That leaves we with around $15k to spend on the actual car and around here, Europe, they're about EUR 5-15k which is like 7-20k dollars or so. Which again means I must choose very wisely before I travel somewhere to actual test drive the unit.

Some questions:

1) What is better in terms of performance and finance? A car with low mileage (like ~50k/km) but no major service or a car with higher mileage (like ~150k/km) but with complete service history including major services? Given that everything else is equal, should there be a big price difference between these units?
Buy on condition rather than mileage or specification. A good car will look like it has been loved. It will have all service records and been serviced on time or ahead of time if the mileage is low. Do not be scared of high kilometres. SVXes are bought for long range motorway comfort. These can go for 300k and more if serviced and cared for. 100k-150k is nothing.
2) I've centered on 94/95 as they are chippable yet have airbags on the passanger side. However, most cars I see in the classifieds from these years don't have that airbag anywhere visible. Are the Euro/German specs different from the US specs?
As noted already all markets are different. If it does not have the "lid" it does not have the passenger airbag. Specs vary a lot;some Euro markets have the lesser quality US type gearbox some markets got the full AWD box like the Japanese market. Generally though most Euro markets got the SVX with good specification.
3) A Lot of them are advertised at 220HP. Again, some particular euro spec?
No difference in engines, but differences in the fuel maps. JDM [Japanese] market cars are tuned for high test petrol, so are normally rated at 230 horse. Most other markets have poorer quality petrol, so the ECUs are tuned for different fuel maps and may be stated as 225 or 220 horse. You won't be able to tell the difference when driving.
4) If I can't find a suitable one with passanger airbag, can such an airbag be easily retrofitted on an earlier model?
Already answered, but buy one with the airbag, too much trouble.
5) Really haven't seen that many rust complaints, may I conclude this is not a big problem on the SVX?
Yes, not a major problem. However if buying from a mountainous region with lots of salt, check the underbody. Best to buy from a warm place if you can.
6) Just in case the family wants to hit the slopes, is it possible and feasable to mount roof racks without ruining the car or risk leaks?
Already answered. You can get roof racks, but the correct type is rare.

7) Will a small chip-tune like ECUTune actually notably improve performance or is it just one out of many things that must be done?
I am not a believer in chip tune improvements because the engine is already high compression and optimally tuned. Difficult to improve on it so that you would notice a change.

Yea, I think that's just about round one. Feel free to add any anectode, opinion, projection...anything that can aid me in selecting the units to test drive.

8) Above ALL things ensure the car you are buying has a good working auto gearbox. It is generally the most expensive fix that most people hit. There should be no revving between shifts [clutch slipping] nor should there be any jerks or thumps [clutches binding]

Drive the car in a large car park, do a figure of eight. If you can hear tyres grabbing and slipping on the tarmac you could have problems with the differentials [or the tyres may be wrong sizes] so be careful if you hear the rear wheels grabbing.

For a 220-230 hp car you will find it can reach high speeds, but acceleration is sluggish. This is mostly because the TCU [transmission computer] is programmed to be economical. The UK ones are in top gear before you get out your front gate.

Because you mention chip tuning I can only assume you are a Subaru person and would like to improve the performance. I can tell you here and now that the most cost effective way of improving how the SVX goes and feels would be to fit a Forester auto gearbox and rear differential. These are low final drive, generally 4.444 and will allow the car to accelerate as you would expect from the horsepower.

Every other way of increasing the power will cost you fortunes. If you have the money, go for it. But trust me, the Forester gearbox is the way to go for a cost effective performance upgrade.

Joe

Cheers

[svxistentialist]

I forgot one thing, one important thing jetboy.

If the car you are considering buying has a black roof, it is of the older phase one variety, no matter what the year of first registration may say.

As you mention, sometimes they were in showrooms a long time before first registration.

If you purchase a car that is all one colour then that car is a phase two car.

Phase two cars will have the different [EOBD?] diagnostic plugs and may not lend themselves to chip tuning, but remember what I said about the 4.444 grearbox. That is the cheapest way of quickening up the car so you will notice the difference in performance.

Joe

[92 SVX]

Originally Posted by svxistentialist

I forgot one thing, one important thing jetboy.

If the car you are considering buying has a black roof, it is of the older phase one variety, no matter what the year of first registration may say.

As you mention, sometimes they were in showrooms a long time before first registration.

If you purchase a car that is all one colour then that car is a phase two car.

Phase two cars will have the different [EOBD?] diagnostic plugs and may not lend themselves to chip tuning, but remember what I said about the 4.444 grearbox. That is the cheapest way of quickening up the car so you will notice the difference in performance.

Joe

or a manual gearbox, though I believe the price is higher then just a 4.44 swap.