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  #1  
Old 08-16-2011, 12:35 AM
B 4 You's Avatar
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should i go with this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-93...ht_2743wt_1167

i'm not looking for any upgrades. mine are just shot. this is all 4 pads and rotors. the seller is 99.8% positive.

anyone else care to pitch in a similar priced deal? i could get this on r1 concepts, but they aren't cross-drilled, they're just OEM. plus a little more pricey. all your input, whether telling me to buy it or telling me i'm an idiot, is appreciated. :]

edit: similar posting: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUBAR...#ht_3584wt_958
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1992 Pearl White LS
Owned since 2009
175k Miles
STi Airlift Performance air suspension
2005 WRX manual swap
Rear wheel drive
K-Staff front bumper
Delta Speed side skirts
JDM clear corners
Smallcar grille
Subaru XT steering wheel
Subaru XT shift knob

First bagged SVX in the world
Worlds first SVX on air suspension.
Custom made (by myself) spare tire subwoofer.

Last edited by B 4 You; 08-16-2011 at 12:39 AM.
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  #2  
Old 08-16-2011, 01:43 AM
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icingdeath88 icingdeath88 is offline
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Re: should i go with this?

What's on your car now? If whatever you're using is "normal" and hasn't gotten warped with your driving style, then you probably can get away with the drilled/slotted Ebay special.
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'94 Laguna Blue LSi ~159k.......JDM ultra short-geared 3.900 STi Version 7 6-speed w/ Cobb shortshifter, ECUtune 244,8.1mm/256,9.1mm i/e cams, group N motor mounts, '97 grille, JDM clear corners, Momo JDM Legacy GT steering wheel, apkarian's LED tails, silver STi BBS wheels, PWR radiator, redstuff pads f/r, drilled/slotted rotors, bontragerworks rsb #18, Koni/GC 450f/375r coilovers, Megan Racing adjustable lateral links, KMac c/c plates, Stebro exhaust, ECUtune 1v5, Optima battery in the trunk where it belongs. Turbo project

'97 Ebony LSi ~137k #036.......Power mode mod, JDM clear corners, BBS wheels. AUX/pocket mod

Now a mod "over there" ............Photo album
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  #3  
Old 08-16-2011, 06:04 AM
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SVX_MY_BABY SVX_MY_BABY is offline
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Re: should i go with this?

Quote:
Originally Posted by icingdeath88 View Post
What's on your car now? If whatever you're using is "normal" and hasn't gotten warped with your driving style, then you probably can get away with the drilled/slotted Ebay special.
What he said. $200.00 is a heck of a price. If they don't work out I guess you're out 8 pizza dinners for 2.
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ART Cryogenic/Slotted Rotors, Stainless Steel Brake Lines, PWR Radiator, Tranny cooler, Stebro, Earthworm's Poly Differential/front & rear swaybar bushings, Koni Inserts and Mychailo SVX Sport Springs all 4 corners, Indigo Blue paint. Liquid Silver Wheels.
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  #4  
Old 08-16-2011, 07:53 AM
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Re: should i go with this?

i don't even have a clue. they were "new from the dealer" when i got them, and are warped as hell. i can't stand it. i've heard drilled + slotted help with not warping. is this true or just false marketing? pretty much anything at this point is better...
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1992 Pearl White LS
Owned since 2009
175k Miles
STi Airlift Performance air suspension
2005 WRX manual swap
Rear wheel drive
K-Staff front bumper
Delta Speed side skirts
JDM clear corners
Smallcar grille
Subaru XT steering wheel
Subaru XT shift knob

First bagged SVX in the world
Worlds first SVX on air suspension.
Custom made (by myself) spare tire subwoofer.
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  #5  
Old 08-16-2011, 08:10 AM
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Huskymaniac Huskymaniac is offline
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Re: should i go with this?

I have looked into this warping issue and there are lots of contradicting opinions. People who seem more knowledgeable claim that it is due to overheated pads depositing material onto the rotors when stopped. To avoid that, drilled is supposedly better than slotted as it keeps the rotors and pads cooler. Also, carbon/metal or carbon/ceramic pads are better than straight ceramic because they conduct heat better. Also, DOT 4 brake fluid is supposedly better at pulling heat away from the pad. For the rotors, the vent design is more important than material, if the problem is overheated pads, but some rotors do use higher quality metal. And some also cryo cool the rotors. IF warping is true mechanical warping of the rotors themselves then the quality of metal and cryo cooling would be very important. If not, then it is mainly about getting heat away from the rotors and pads.

It looks like R1concepts sells cross drilled versions of the Centric rotors. Centric uses high quality metal stock. However, it doesn't seem to be made from the cryo-treated centric rotors. Too bad as that would be the best combo for the $$$. For the pads, Hawk HPS pads seem to be the best buy for a metallo-carbon composite pad. When I need to replace my front brakes, that is the combo I am going with.
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1996 Polo Green Subaru SVX LSi, 168,XXX miles, Redline D4 ATF, Redline 75W90 gear oil, K&N HP-4001 Oil Filter, Mobil 1 5W50 FS (3qt) and 5W30 High Mileage (4qt) Oil Blend, Motul RBF600 Brake Fluid, AC Delco A975C Air Filter, NGK BKR6EIX-11 plugs, Centric Rotors, Power Stop Evolution Carbon Fiber Ceramic Brake Pads
2005 Gray Acura RL, 165,XXX miles, Redline D4 ATF with Lubegard Platinum Protectant, Mobil 1 5W20 High Mileage Extended Performance Oil
2009 Red Toyota Venza, 123,XXX, Mobil 1 5W30 High Mileage Oil
1992 Red Ferrari 348 ts, 82,XXX, Redline everything

Last edited by Huskymaniac; 08-16-2011 at 08:12 AM.
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  #6  
Old 08-16-2011, 08:25 AM
XT6Wagon XT6Wagon is offline
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Re: should i go with this?

There is two different things called "warping" by people. One is actual warping. This can be identified by the lateral forces generated. IE it hammers on the wheel left and right. The second is the uneven deposits/friction of the rotor. This can be identified by while pulling the wheel left and right, it is due to uneven friction between the sides, and there is no "hammering".

I don't have any experience with the SVX having issues with actual warping, and the ueven deposits can be prevented with some care in your driving. Googling can provide some tips by people who deal with brakes more than me.

With that said, crossdrilled is so 1990's. I'm more of a fan of slotted rotors for daily use as they don't weaken the rotor anywhere near as much and are quite good at keeping your pads from glazing.
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  #7  
Old 08-16-2011, 10:42 AM
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dbarnblatt dbarnblatt is offline
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Re: should i go with this?

I'm looking as something like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-93...-/160400337353

Stock look with an e-coating (Powdercoated, painted, what have you) centers and vented area to prevent surface rust. Just a cosmetic thing.

I am also considering these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=350483395452

In the USA and still costly with the free shipping. Look nice though.
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  #8  
Old 08-16-2011, 12:21 PM
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Huskymaniac Huskymaniac is offline
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Re: should i go with this?

Brakes are too important to go cheap on (#2 to tires IMO).

If you are worried about cost, get these for the front:

http://www.r1concepts.com/subaru-svx...s-PX.47014.htm

And these for the rear:

http://www.partsgeek.com/pdproducts/...-01120116.html

For pads, get these for the front:

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...6&autoModClar=

and for the rear get ceramic or composite pads from Akebono, Centric, Hawk or EBC from here:

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/199...e_pad_set.html

You can put together a really good, low warping setup in front and a decent but much less expensive setup in the rear.
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1996 Polo Green Subaru SVX LSi, 168,XXX miles, Redline D4 ATF, Redline 75W90 gear oil, K&N HP-4001 Oil Filter, Mobil 1 5W50 FS (3qt) and 5W30 High Mileage (4qt) Oil Blend, Motul RBF600 Brake Fluid, AC Delco A975C Air Filter, NGK BKR6EIX-11 plugs, Centric Rotors, Power Stop Evolution Carbon Fiber Ceramic Brake Pads
2005 Gray Acura RL, 165,XXX miles, Redline D4 ATF with Lubegard Platinum Protectant, Mobil 1 5W20 High Mileage Extended Performance Oil
2009 Red Toyota Venza, 123,XXX, Mobil 1 5W30 High Mileage Oil
1992 Red Ferrari 348 ts, 82,XXX, Redline everything
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  #9  
Old 08-16-2011, 12:41 PM
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Re: should i go with this?

i wonder if they are the same dealer that i got mine from.
i got mine off ebay but i contacted him directly to pic em up, they work great!
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  #10  
Old 08-16-2011, 01:21 PM
92snowmachine 92snowmachine is offline
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Re: should i go with this?

i would prefer to buy the rotors and pads locally. then if you ever have a problem it won't be hard for you to return or exchange them. i spent several months trying to get the disc brake australia rotors before i eventually got my money back and took it to napa.
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  #11  
Old 08-16-2011, 01:29 PM
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icingdeath88 icingdeath88 is offline
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Re: should i go with this?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskymaniac View Post
Brakes are too important to go cheap on (#2 to tires IMO).
This is true, but I'm doubtful that even really crappy brakes will just up and fail without warning. Especially since one should always start off suspicious of new equipment on a car.

My driving style has done well with my brake setup though (see sig), and that stands as my recommendation. When it's time to do brakes on my black svx, I'll use the same stuff (maybe not the SS brakelines though).
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'94 Laguna Blue LSi ~159k.......JDM ultra short-geared 3.900 STi Version 7 6-speed w/ Cobb shortshifter, ECUtune 244,8.1mm/256,9.1mm i/e cams, group N motor mounts, '97 grille, JDM clear corners, Momo JDM Legacy GT steering wheel, apkarian's LED tails, silver STi BBS wheels, PWR radiator, redstuff pads f/r, drilled/slotted rotors, bontragerworks rsb #18, Koni/GC 450f/375r coilovers, Megan Racing adjustable lateral links, KMac c/c plates, Stebro exhaust, ECUtune 1v5, Optima battery in the trunk where it belongs. Turbo project

'97 Ebony LSi ~137k #036.......Power mode mod, JDM clear corners, BBS wheels. AUX/pocket mod

Now a mod "over there" ............Photo album
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  #12  
Old 08-17-2011, 12:11 AM
92 SVX 92 SVX is offline
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Re: should i go with this?

I have ss brake lines from r1concepts, r1 concepts drilled slotted rotors front and rear and r1concepts branded ceramic pads, I paid a total of $318. $230 for rotors pads, $88 for ss lines.
I bought them on specials, after thanksgiving sale, and had a 10 or 15% discount. dont remember exactly how much discount.
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  #13  
Old 08-17-2011, 06:43 AM
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Re: should i go with this?

Just curious Icicng Y not SS lines on the black car ? Is there a problem with them?
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  #14  
Old 08-17-2011, 12:41 PM
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icingdeath88 icingdeath88 is offline
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Re: should i go with this?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Conn SVX View Post
Just curious Icicng Y not SS lines on the black car ? Is there a problem with them?
They cost money, and to me it seems like they helped more with the feel of the pedal than the actual stopping ability. The black car is supposed to be the comfortable one, and the blue one is supposed to the sporty one. So no need.
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'94 Laguna Blue LSi ~159k.......JDM ultra short-geared 3.900 STi Version 7 6-speed w/ Cobb shortshifter, ECUtune 244,8.1mm/256,9.1mm i/e cams, group N motor mounts, '97 grille, JDM clear corners, Momo JDM Legacy GT steering wheel, apkarian's LED tails, silver STi BBS wheels, PWR radiator, redstuff pads f/r, drilled/slotted rotors, bontragerworks rsb #18, Koni/GC 450f/375r coilovers, Megan Racing adjustable lateral links, KMac c/c plates, Stebro exhaust, ECUtune 1v5, Optima battery in the trunk where it belongs. Turbo project

'97 Ebony LSi ~137k #036.......Power mode mod, JDM clear corners, BBS wheels. AUX/pocket mod

Now a mod "over there" ............Photo album
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