svx help

[1986nate]

Here are instructions from this thread http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...ission+removal

The Directions for dropping the tranny are a little off so I thought I would help them out... here is what I would have done if I where to do it again.

Automatic Transmission Removal:

1. Position vehicle on hoist. Do not lift.
2. Open Hood.
3. Disconnect battery ground cable. Remove throttle body cover (plastic thing).
4. Remove air intake pipe. Remove bolt for upper tranny mount (black dog bone thing).
5. Remove pitching stopper and bracket. Disconnect transmission air vent hoses from bracket.
6. Disconnect the following electrical connectors:
a. Transmission harness.
b. Oxygen sensors.
c. Vehicle speed sensor 2.
d. Transmission ground.
7. Disconnect PCV hose, then blow-by hose from crankcase to collector.
a. Disconnect Heater pipes on both sides.
8. Raise and support vehicle.
9. Remove Starter:
a. Remove lower starter mounting bolts.
b. Disconnect power supply terminal and magnet coil connector for starter.
c. Remove upper starter mounting bolts, then the starter.
10. Remove torque converter cover hole plug (mine wasn't there), then remove torque converter to drive plate attaching bolts (use a 22mm or 7/8" socket on the front of the engine crank to prevent torque converter from moving). Separate torque converter from drive plate.
a. If you don't have room then remove the 6 bolts holding the throttle body, and then the throttle body.
11. Install engine support fixture No. 927670000 or equivalent (rope through dog bone to both sides of the air intake manifold, AND jack supporting oil pan), then remove upper right side transmission to engine bolts.
12. Remove fluid level gauge from transmission and front differential
a. Drain Tranny fluid
13. Remove under cover, then oxygen sensor harness from clip.
14. Remove exhaust:
a. Spray all bolts that need to be removed with a penetrating lubricant.
b. Remove 2 bolts on either side in-between front catalyst converter and header pipe.
c. Remove supporting bolts for exhaust all the way to the rear including the 2 for the muffler.
d. Drop exhaust and use screwdrivers to remove rubber supports.
15. Remove propeller shaft to companion flange attaching bolts, then the center bearing to body bolts. Remove propeller shaft from transmission. (Drive shaft)
16. Remove selector cable from selector lever assembly, then the selector cable bracket from body.
17. Remove performance rod (lower sway bar).
18. Remove front axle from transmission as follows:
a. Remove three bolts at the end of the lower A-arm; take the inner one out last. (Might have to use jack to compress spring)
b. Remove spring pin holding axle shaft into front differential drive shaft (the pin in the CV joint right next to the dif). Make sure to use a bolt and not something that has a point like a nail or screw, it will come out a lot faster. Also they are asymmetric, if its not moving rotate 180 and try from the other side.
c. Remove axle shaft from transmission.
19. Disconnect transmission hoses from side of transmission, then remove lower side transmission to engine attaching bolts.
20. Place transmission jack under transmission, then remove rear cross member to body bolts. (3 on each side, not the center ones)
21. Remove transmission from vehicle (more people=better). Move transmission and torque converter as a unit away from engine. If it's not coming off use the jack on the oil pan and slowly lift the engine a little bit... be careful.
22. Reverse procedure to install.

To get the flexplate off I used 2 breaker bars, one for the 8 bolts (14mm) and one for the crank bolt (22mm or 7/8"). Use the crank breaker bar to torque it off and have the person under the car hold the socket on the bolt.

Good Luck! You will need it.

Just to note, I actually did just about everything with only jack stands. The only problem was that the trans and engine were siezed together at the alignment dowels. My mechanic had to heat up the alignment dowels while having a come-along snug and wiggling the trans like a mother ******. Otherwise I could have done it all on my own using just the jack stands but I would definitely suggest finding access to a lift.

[Green1995SVX]

Originally Posted by 1986nate

Here are instructions from this thread http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...ission+removal



Just to note, I actually did just about everything with only jack stands. The only problem was that the trans and engine were siezed together at the alignment dowels. My mechanic had to heat up the alignment dowels while having a come-along snug and wiggling the trans like a mother ******. Otherwise I could have done it all on my own using just the jack stands but I would definitely suggest finding access to a lift.

You can also use a giant screw driver (like 2-3 feet long) to pry them apart. Use a smaller screw driver to wedge between the engine and trans, and pound it in with a hammer, then put in the bigger one and pry away.

Also, in that how-to, it says you need to disconnect the heater pipes. You don't. You can skip that step.

[1986nate]

Originally Posted by Green1995SVX

You can also use a giant screw driver (like 2-3 feet long) to pry them apart. Use a smaller screw driver to wedge between the engine and trans, and pound it in with a hammer, then put in the bigger one and pry away.

Also, in that how-to, it says you need to remove the heater pipes. You don't. You can skip that step.

Ha ha, yeah believe me, I sat there pounding and prying for 2 hours. Even my mechanic said there was no way in hell I was gettin that thing apart.