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#1
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Seat belt options
I am about 90% sure the main seatbelt module is bad. After reviewing posts, oiling tracks, taking apart and testing limiter switches (had a pro look at it) its narrowed down. Cost new is $265 (4 left in the US) and used is around $75.
Here are the two ideas that I have. 1 Wire a switch to the motor so I can control it manually. 2 Install grey manual seatbelts from another Subaru. Has anyone done either and have any opinions or ideas? P.S. Passenger side works fine. Honestly not a big fan of autobelts. I wear glasses and wife has long hair. Both get pulled and mangled too often. |
#2
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Here's your best (and cheapest) option:
Look in your owners manual for instructions on how to move a non-functioning seatbelt. Move it to the very end of it's rearward travel. Now, use the emergency release button to disconnect the belt from the latch. Now when you drive your car all you have to do is reconnect the belt to the latch. Dave |
#3
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Thanks
Dave,
Thanks for the reply. Yeah, been doing that for a while. No big deal for me but wife is short. She has a real hard time reaching back and unlatching the belt. Thanks for the tip though. Paul |
#4
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I would welcome the option...
...of just having the automatic shoulder belt latches stay in the upper, locked position!
My symptoms are a little different: most of the time the seatbelt moves as normal, open the door it goes forward, close the door, it moves back... Warning lights are normal. But, recently... My problem is that after turning off the ignition & pulling the key, opening the door makes the latch move back: then a pause, 4 or 5 seconds later there is a "click-click-click" sound (probably a relay?) coming from the trunk area. This is the area of ECU "controller", right? This seems to be exactly in tune with the Security System light flashing and the "door open, key in ignition" chime. Turn the key to "ON" or "START" and it stops. Fiddle a bit with the key in the ignition, move the wheel, open and shut the door, start and then turn off the car, drive for a minute, everything works ok... 'Till the next time, that is. For those of you with prior experience, does this not seem to be either the door switch or the rear limiter switch? How do you get to the door switch? Upon occasion when I close the door after sucessfully shutting down the car (no "click-click-click") the latch will try to move from the forward position to the back position in a series of short, jerky movements when the door is shut. When it gets to the back it then continues with the 'ol "click-click-click"!!! How do I get the shoulder belt latches to remain in the "UP" position? The instructions in the Owner's Manual using the crank seems to work as far as getting the latch to the rear (this was never my problem) but the first time you open the door again the latch moves back to the forward position! Is there a wire to cut, part of the harness to unplug or a fuse to pull? To further SVX JAZZ's original question, has anybody changed over to the manual belts? Aftermarket harness? Cheers!
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' 92 SVX @ 185K ' 91 420SEL @ 223K! ' 88 420SEL I. @ 178K (what a buy!) ' 87 F250 @ 180K ' 93 ZX-11D @ 29K ' 93 SC400 @ 93K 2001 Valkyrie Interstate @ 6.6K (Brynhild) Y2K NightHawk 250 @ 1,500 miles ' 88 420SEL II. @ 208K '85 F150 @ 135K |
#5
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unplugged it
I took the inside back panel off (took bottom seat cushion out first) then unplugged the motor. Then it would allow me to crank it and keep it in the back position.
Interestingly I tried plugging my rear window switch up to the motor like another member did and the power to my window is off. Manual belts look like the best alternative… |
#6
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Do you recall...
...which plug you pulled? As I recall there are three running to the motor area...
Wire colors, count or plug ID would be much appreciated! Norm p.s. Thanks in advance!
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' 92 SVX @ 185K ' 91 420SEL @ 223K! ' 88 420SEL I. @ 178K (what a buy!) ' 87 F250 @ 180K ' 93 ZX-11D @ 29K ' 93 SC400 @ 93K 2001 Valkyrie Interstate @ 6.6K (Brynhild) Y2K NightHawk 250 @ 1,500 miles ' 88 420SEL II. @ 208K '85 F150 @ 135K |
#7
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Red one I think...
Pull the one that has a red wire. I believe it has a black wire and a red wire. You won't hurt anything by pulling all three. Wish I could be of more help.
Hope you can get it cranked back and get it to stay. Paul |
#8
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On one of my 93s, the belt travels to the forward position and then stays there. I crank it back and it goes forward again. I have worn out the little thing that you put the wrench on. I am going to try to install another whole track, motor and other stuff.
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. Earl .... ... .... ><SVX(*> Subaru Ambassador [COLOR=”silver”]1992 Tri Color L[/COLOR] ~45K (06/91) #2430 1992 Dark Teal LS-L ~184K (05/91) #0739 1992 Claret LS-L ~196K (05/91) #0831 1992 Pearl LS-L ~103K (06/91) #1680 1992 Pearl LS-L ~151K (06/91) #2229 1992 Dark Teal LS ~150K (07/91) #3098 (parts car) 1992 White LS-L ~139K (08/92) #6913 1993 25th AE ~98K (02/93) #164 1993 25th AE ~58K (02/93) #176 1993 25th AE ~107K (02/93) #215 1993 25th AE ~162K (02/93) #223 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~124K (1/94) #2408 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~144K (10/93) #1484 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~68K (10/93) #1525 1994 Barcelona Red LSi ~46K (02/94) #2624 1994 Pearl LSi ~41K (12/93) #1961 1995 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~70K (02/95) #855 1996 Polo Green LSi ~95K (03/96) #872 1997 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~55K (08/96) #097 2003 Brilliant Red LS1 Convertible ~29K (04/03) #8951 1999 Magnetic Red LS1 Coupe ~33K (04/99) #6420 My Email | Old Locker | New Locker | Picture of 15 of the 19 |
#9
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Mine has been sticking recently too, either I have to wait 5 seconds, then it moves or it doesn;t at all until I get back in the car. Right now its no big deal. No noises at all.
Can I use silcone spray to 'unstick' it? |
#10
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Quote:
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Mike 92 LSL Teal 103k 00 RS 2.5 Silverthorn Metallic 36k 68 Chevy Camaro 07 Forester XT Sport |
#11
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I thought of an idea. What about getting a newer shifter surround with the central locking switch and wire that to the seatbelts for just an emergency...or remove the automatic functionality altogether.
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David B. SVXipedia @ SVX-IW.COM -- SVX Information Warehouse 2.0 coming...eventually! Ebony 1992 SVX LS-L 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro 187k miles RIP (Rust In Pieces) 1993 SVX 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro Polyurethane bushings still available! |
#12
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You have a manual seat belt?
Whoa there Mike,
How about enlightening us on the auto to manual conversion? Ali Quote:
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If it ain't broken it, doesn't have enough features!!! '92 SVX LSL '03 4Runner '96 FZJ80 Landcruiser '90 Mercedes 300E |
#13
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It's very easy and is a direct bolt-in fit to convert the auto to manual.
Mike |
#14
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the suspense is killing me.....! Let's hear more pls!
Quote:
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If it ain't broken it, doesn't have enough features!!! '92 SVX LSL '03 4Runner '96 FZJ80 Landcruiser '90 Mercedes 300E |
#15
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where do i get the manual belts from? I'm assuming subaru , but hopefully someone will chime in here. I can't stand the non-automatic seatbelt.
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