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  #1  
Old 09-17-2004, 02:33 PM
dcarrb dcarrb is offline
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NADA vs. KBB

Looked up my car on both the Kelley Blue Book and NADA sites (not planning to sell; just a boring day) and was surprised to see a substantial difference:

KBB suggested retail $6266
NADA high retail $5043


So, which is more accurate (or maybe I should say, authoritative)?

dcb
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  #2  
Old 09-17-2004, 02:40 PM
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Rotorflyr Rotorflyr is offline
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And if you go to a site like Edmunds and "price" it there, you will get a 3rd # Im sure. (yeah I know it's not a "real" pricing guide)

I don't know if it is still true or not, but years ago more "dealers" used NADA ove KBB. (at least in NY)
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Old 09-17-2004, 02:51 PM
dcarrb dcarrb is offline
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Of course I knew the figures wouldn't be identical, but I didn't expect such disparity. I'm tempted to print that KBB page for my insurance agent's files (as if that would matter).

The recent threads on insurance and book value (along with yesterday's arrival of my insurance bill) got me to thinking about whether it makes sense to carry full coverage. But I must admit, I'd probably be tickled to get even five grand out of Nationwide if my car were totaled.

dcb
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Old 09-17-2004, 03:21 PM
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It usually depends on where you live. In the south east, most places, including banks and the dmv, use the nada. Since most of the time kbb is lower, dealerships will go by that if you're trading in a vehicle and will use the nada book for selling them
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Old 09-17-2004, 03:31 PM
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I think it (the price) also depends on which NADA book you use. There's the blue book (available at some places in the retail market - and what I think is online) and the black book that I've only ever seen at dealers. The black book usually has a bigger spread in wholesale to retail prices, i.e., to help the dealer buy low, sell high. The NADA online retail price is usally closer to the private party price at KBB
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Old 09-17-2004, 11:47 PM
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When you talk to banks and dealers, they go by the book you can't get. Which always lists a value about $1000 lower than the worst value you found for your car. Amazing how that works. KBB seems to be rather optimistic. NADA is alot closer to what a dealer would say, but still high.
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Old 09-20-2004, 07:22 AM
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NADA is the industry standard, printed by the National Automobile Dealers Association, so reason would hold that most dealers will utilize these estimates. You can take a look at the latest NADA book at your local bank, assuming good terms with your banker. It used to be published quarterly by regions. Remember that it is a guide, and that a car's actual value depends upon its condition and its popularity in the marketplace. The SVX is not a popular car in the standard marketplace, so don't expect to be offered full value by a dealer. It is a specialty automobile that can fetch its true value only in a private purchase sale. It is only worth what someone is willing to pay, and finding a buyer can be difficult in markets that do not value Subaru products. An SVX in Oregon is much more likely to sell at a higher value than the same car in Texas. Used SVX sales follow the same pattern as new SVX car sales; popular new cars make popular used cars.
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Old 09-20-2004, 07:33 AM
dcarrb dcarrb is offline
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Thanks for the input, everyone.

Now, anyone care to expound on how a freindly auto insurance adjuster would go about establishing the value (presumably replacement value) of an SVX?

dcb
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  #9  
Old 09-20-2004, 08:14 AM
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I'd say that NADA is more accurate. As for replacement value everyone seems to have a different idea. I know this isn't a SVX, but here's my story of getting a settlement for a total loss. We had bought a low milage 1992 Legacy L FWD Wagon in 1997 for $9k. In 1999 I was hit head-on in broad daylight in my lane by an old woman trying to illegally park on the wrong side of the road. She said she didn't see me, at 3 in the afternoon with my headlights on! Anyway, we went through my insurance company instead of her's. We held onto the rental for over a month (over $1k total when all said and done) while I rejected their offers for settlement. We owed around $4k on it. They started at $4500 and after a month I settled for $8450. I got back almost what I paid for it. I had all my receipts for service, new tires, etc... I also faxed them ads for similar wagons to show I couldn't replace my vehicle for what they were offering me. They deducted $500 for my deductible, and 4 months later I got the $500 when they got their money from her insurance. Moral, documents matter more then a book value, and if you can show what your limited production vehicle is selling for on the market, you might be able to get more then book value on a total loss settlement.
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Old 09-20-2004, 09:17 AM
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In my experience, insurance adjusters start out at wholesale price and what you negotiate from there depends on whose insurance is playing for the claim (yours or theirs).
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  #11  
Old 09-20-2004, 10:12 AM
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If you look at KBB carefully you will see that is is stated to be the ASKING PRICE, I believe NADA andEdmunds are the price you should expect to pay, that's why KBB is always so much higher.
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