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#31
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Re: Re: Tires
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If you could explain properly why I and a master tech is wrong you wouldn't be so offended I'm sure but the ricer comment was all him. He thinks I'm a ricer too but then again your comments gave him quite a chuckle. What do you expect from a 55 year old Greek with a bad heart who hates anything that doesn't say made in Italy? Since I have explained the neg. aspects of high tire pressures and have no desire to offend you I think its lunchtime. I know tires are highly subjective but I bough the RE950s over others recommendations and found them to be for the most part horrible in snow. I'll stick with the A540s until they die. Currently have nearly 25k on them and had no problems driving through a 2+ foot snow to get to the slopes. It definately kept the tranny cool though.
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British vehicles are my last ditch attempt to keep the nasty Italian thoughts in my mind at bay. So far its working. |
#32
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Perhaps our difference in tire pressures contributed to our radical difference in the experience of the tires' performance.
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#33
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Here's a post from Luke, the head tire tech at Tirerack. He evaluates tires for a living.
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#34
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Okay you guys, Play nice Some more help please. How important is the condition of the rubber at the ends of the springs? Mine is still original and looked okay when I did my struts.
Second, How about if I rotate these tires to the other side of the car? Then I can wear off a new inside tread on the tire. |
#35
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Rotation... these are unidirectional tires? Rotating to the other side without unmounting the tires would cause your wheels to be backwards... If you're ok with remounting the tires then that's an idea... Make sure your tires are unidirectional though, and not asymmetrical. Asymmetricals have specific inner and outer tread. |
#36
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I would un-mount and remount to the other rims.
You said: Make sure your tires are unidirectional though, and not asymmetrical. Asymmetricals have specific inner and outer tread. So tires if directional and asymmetrical would be made left and right? |
#37
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Asymmetricals will have a dedicated left and right side tire.
Directionals can be used on either side but have a dedicated rotation direction, which can normally be seen in the tread. Some tires are both asymmetrical and directional, as some Pirellis. |
#38
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Oh take a simple question and turn it into a 3 page thread. I feel for the person that tries to follow this.
I pumped up my tires before I left for home, 37 psi rear and 34 psi front. When I got home they were at 40 front and 37 rear. Okay Porter the car rides better with the higher pressure. It is even smoother on the highway bumps. I am really kicking myself now for wrecking these tires. The front gross weight is 2405 lbs. Half for each tire is 1203 lbs. the tire is rated 1389 lbs at 44 psi. Heck even if I take 1/4 the cargo load off (685/4) 171 I get 1032 lbs per tire empty. The placard for these tire is wrong for sure. 33 psi is too low. The tire is stiffer in the bumps at 30 than it is at 37 psi. |
#39
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Dick ************** 1999 Legacy GT 30th Anniversary Edition 2001 Outback Sport |
#40
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Okay so I call Yokohama 800 number and ask. They say they go by the placard, 33 front and 28 rear. I get the following info for tire load:
1210 @ 28 1232 @ 29 1323 @ 33 1389 @ 36 1389 @ 44 Now what? I am I am thinking I may be able to get replacement tires for free. |
#41
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After experiencing uneven wear with the original set of tires on my SVX, I've been running 35 all around ever since and have never had a problem with handling or abnormal wear even with extended use between rotations. I don't know about all the science, but at 180k miles and averaging 60k per set, I prefer to run this setup as opposed to what it says on the door jamb.
KuoH |
#42
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JDM spec pressures are:
According to the stamp on my door jam
Rear 2.0 kg/m2 (28.5psi) Front 2.2 (or is it 2.3 - my car is in town today)kg/m2 (31.2-32.7psi) I happen to believe that this is way too low, and in fact my mother's car (SVX) with I can't remember what tyres (but quite expensive) is having the same problem that SVX_commuter has i.e the inside inch or so is severly chewed out. I run my SVX at about 35 f 32 r, simply because I have cheap Indonesian tyres and our NZ roads are so incredibly noisy that we can't run what we'd like to. Matt
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'92 JDM (E) Burgandy/Black 100Km Just Crusin' |
#43
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front toe: nominal 0", allowable +/- 0.12" front camber: nominal -0.4 deg, allowable +0.3 deg to -1.2 deg front caster (factory non adjustable): nominal +4.8 deg, allowable +4.1 deg to +5.6 deg rear toe: nominal 0", allowable +/- 0.12" rear camber (factory non-adjustable): nominal -0.7 deg, allowable +0.1 deg to -1.4 deg If you need to adjust the rear camber, there is a company that makes an eccentric bolt for the strut that adds the ability to adjust rear camber. The nominal values are a nice comprimise between performance and wear. If you take it in for alignment, don't try to get the shop to push the camber values to 0 deg. Were the insides of both the front and rear tires worn out? Wear was rate was certainly dramatically increased by the lack of tire rotation and low tire pressure. I doubt your struts are bad if you are on your 2nd set within 80k miles. Do they feel bad? Running higher than stock tire pressure is a good thing. The stock pressures were derived to provide a comfortable ride. I don't run values as high as Jason does, but I definitely increase the pressures by 5 psi over the values on the door jam. If you are running your tires in the 30-40 psi range, for the front and rear tires to have the same *rolling* radius, the front tires will need to have much more pressure than the rear tires. I verified this myself using whiteout to mark the tires and a straight piece of road. With my 225/45-17 tires, to get the same rolling radius in the front and rear, I had to run 38 psi in the front and 30 psi in the rear. With a 4 psi differential, there was a 0.12% difference in rolling radius. With equal psi, there was a 0.25% difference in rolling radius.
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Mychailo :: 2006 Silver Mitsubishi Evolution 9, E85, 34 psi peak, 425wtq/505whp DJ :: 1995 Laguna Blue SVX L AWD 5MT (sold) Visit my locker SVX Mods: ND iridium spark plugs, Impreza RS fpr, afr tuned to 13.2:1 using a custom MAF bypass, custom exhaust, WRX 5MT w/ STi RA 1st-4th gear & stock WRX 5th gear, Exedy 13 lb flywheel & Sport Clutch, STi Group N tranny & engine mounts, urethane spacers in rear subframe, rear diff mounts, and pitch stopper, SVX Sport Strut Springs (185f/150r), custom 19 mm rear swaybar, urethane swaybar mounts, Rota Torque 17x8", 225/45-17 Proxes 4 tires, Axxis Deluxe Plus organic brake pads. |
#44
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I ran my avs sports at stock pressure for most of their life - tore the shoulders to pieces and recently replaced them with azenis when the cord was showing. Middle of the tire had alot of tread left - it was disappointing. I just swapped tires on my wife's svx last night - her avid V4's sidewalls were also chewed to the point where metal was showing in the shoulders. I put my used avs db's on and there is no way they are going to be set at stock pressure. She drives fast but not aggressively in corners.
On recommendation from mainly Porter and the other folks at i-club I'm running 45/ 43 and I love it on these new tires. I started a little lower and gradually went up some. Ride is not harsh and cornering feels great and I don't get the feeling I'm going to peel the tire off of the rim in a fast corner.
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Matt Locker Link 2015 BRZ Limited 6MT 92 Ebony LS-L ECUtune Stage2av1, Z32 MAF, 370cc injectors, TomsSVX intake, BontragerWorks 22mm RSB #003, HID Hi and Lo beams, OT endlink and bushing mods, PWR Aluminum radiator, Harvey's QC shift kit, 2.5" flowmaster 80 exhaust, 17" Michelin Pilot Sport A/S, Poly sway bar bushings, Slotted Bradi rotors, AFBeefcake powdercoated calipers, 97 grill, and a huge set of air horns. 300,000 miles and counting 92 Ebony LS-L. ecutune stage1v4, motorsport 1pc pulley. Garage Queen - sold to Dad in upstate NY 155,000 miles 19 Subaru Ascent Premium - -Hers !. 89 DL 4x4 little red wagon - a.k.a. The immortal suby. 275k R.I.P. |
#45
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Just some thoughts
I may be a junior member, but I'm not junior when it comes to tires and what the door jam sticker says vs type of tire in use.
This applies to all vehicles, AWD or not. My 93 SVX placard indicates that this specific vehicle was set-up to run P225/50 R16 (91V) tires, front 33, rear 29. I have Toyo Proxes FZ4 on the car at present and can tell a difference between these tires and the Michelins (same size) that were on the car when I purchased it. The Michelins provided a smoother ride with the same tire presssure. Tire performance and ride characteristics boil down to one very specific aspect: tire construction. Different brands provide/present different ride characteristics. I prefer Michelins, because they deliver, in my opinion, better ride quality. But that characteristic comes with a higher price. Side wall construction is the key to ride quality and overall tire performance. Some manufacturers build a better tire than others. Don't blame it on tire pressure. The manufacturer's placard specifies tire size/pressure based on weight distribution/suspension design/load capacity. I recently purchased two 2003 Chevy Suburbans. Both are 3/4 ton, 4WD vehicles. One is an LT, the other is an LS. One rides better than the other. Why? Different shocks on the LT. But the two vehicles have identical tire placard information. Both call for LT 245/75R16E tires with 50 PSI Front, 80 PSI rear. Both vehicles have identical tires and same psi. I guess Chevy thought that the LT should present more of a refined ride (leather and all that stuff) than the LS. It's not the tires my fellow forum members, it's the shocks. Let's back off on this thread. Typically, specific tire wear patterns, such as cupping or feathering, is the result of worn suspension parts or improper alignment. Plain and simple. No personal thoughts, just facts. If you wish to discuss tire performance, or lack thereof, then it's time for a new/different thread. |
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