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Gasket and seal kit?
Does anybody have any experience with the Subaru 'gasket and seal kit' for the SVX? I put my SVX up on stands last night to look at the suspension, and I found oil everywhere. I do want to put up a couple pictures to ask some specific questions, but for now I just want to know how comprehensive the 'gasket and seal kit' is.
I'm considering pulling the engine so I can just replace all the seals without lying on my back or stuffing my arms into cramped quarters. I need to replace the rear main seal anyway, and I've already pulled the transmission once. Might as well try the engine next.
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2005 RX-8 Grand Touring 2005 Outback 2002 Mercedes-Benz E320 wagon END OF LINE |
#2
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the subaru gasket and seal kit includes absolutely all the seals and gaskets for a complete overhaul. Replace your piston rings and crank and rod bearings while you are at it.
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#3
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Yep, almost everything you could possibly want gasket-wise is in there-- even a few I had no idea what they were for. I don't remember an oil pan gasket included, though.
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#4
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The Subaru Rebuild Kit, (gaskets and seals only)
part #10105AA060 lists for $316.05. I'll order one tomorrow to see what is in it. Hi Mike.
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www.svxfiles.com The first SuperCharged SVX, the first 4.44 gears, the first equal length headers, the first phenolic spacers, the first Class Glass fiberglass hood, the first with 4, 4.44s in his driveway Fiberglass Hood thread My locker 4.44 Swap link |
#5
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That's because the SVX does not use an oil pan gasket. The oil pan on an svx seals with three bond or ultra black.
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#6
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New bearings, rings and a valve job would be a good idea. I'm going the same route. Unfortunately, it's taking forever to save up the $800 for main bearings, rod bearings and rings. Then another $250 for the valve job. Of course I'll take the block in and get it cleaned an rehoned and the crank will get polished.
With all the parts, machine work and other items (water pump, timing belt, tensioners, hoses, belts, fluids, etc.) it's about a $1,500-1,800 job. Then again, it beats paying some sleezey mechanic 3-4k to screw ya over. |
#7
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$800 in parts for the rings and bearings??? That's ridiculous.
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2005 RX-8 Grand Touring 2005 Outback 2002 Mercedes-Benz E320 wagon END OF LINE |
#8
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From the dealer, that's probably about right. You can use sealed power or clevite bearings for the ej22 though. I haven't checked the rings but probably the same too.
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#9
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Hmmmm...*subscribed*
This is basically everything I need to do to my engine. All seals need doing and I'm burning oil, so the rings would be a good thing to fix. I'll start putting money away. Unless I feel like just replacing the leaky valve cover gasket and saving the rest of my money for a built engine....Hmmmmmm...
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Chris 92 Ebony Mica LS-L "A Rolling Restoration": 223,250 KM - Sleeping 2007 STi 6MT, Stance GR+ coilovers, PWR Rad, JDM hood badge, svxfiles 6000K HIDs, JDM Clear Corners, $15/15 min mod, $20/20 min mod, Energy Swaybar Bushings, Hella Supertones horns, Gold STi BBS rims, Group A lightweight crank pulley, A/C system removed, Custom header-back exhaust, Hybrid carbon/metal rear sway bar, restored headlights with CCFL halos 2008 Subaru Legacy Spec B - Diamond Grey Metallic - Sold 2020 Ram 1500 Longhorn - Red Pearl |
#10
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My daily conclusion (because it changes at least that often) is that I will probably pull the engine, but just do the seals I know need doing. I'll do external, peripheral things, but stop short of pulling the engine apart. That means the seals, water pump, oil pump, etc. I won't do engine internals.
The engine is working well, and I put very few miles on it these days, so I expect it to be working well for years to come. It doesn't burn oil, so there's really no reason for me to replace the rings and pull the heads apart. I am, however, tempted to buy an engine off eBay to have a spare.
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2005 RX-8 Grand Touring 2005 Outback 2002 Mercedes-Benz E320 wagon END OF LINE |
#11
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Actually there is good reason to do the internals. A bunch of them.
1)the gasket/seal kit is the most expensive set of parts in an eg33 overhaul 2)head gaskets and valve seals go bad with time not miles 3)the rod bearings are tri-metal...what that means is the friction surface is a very very very thin layer of metal ontop of other metals there just to maintain shape..once that thin layer gets worn through the bearing immediately starts wearing the crank pin, making heat, and the heat pulls like a hot weld when it cools and bends the crank 3)pistons are hard to get and if you overhaul your engine before the rings compeletely go bad you won't need to get new pistons If you overhaul your engine instead of just doing the external stuff you will be good for another 150,000 miles. Our cars are at that age where the engines need to be overhauled. For the last few years people have been putting in 96-97 engines from wrecks instead of overhauling their engines. That's becoming less and less feasible every day. Now I've not only made performance engine parts available but publicly listed the quality after market parts to enable everyone to inexpensively overhaul their stock engines. I know a lot people aren't able to overhaul their own engines but hell you could drop your car off with SVXfiles and let him do the whole job start to finish. Quote:
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#12
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Damn you for rationalizing much more work. Heh. You make a good case.
Seriously, though, is the gasket and seals kit really the most expensive part of an overhaul? Do you make that assertion assuming the use of some aftermarket parts? I looked on Subaruparts.com; the OEM piston ring, crank bearing and rod bearing sets were expensive. I know you say you have publicly mentioned good aftermarket parts - is there a comprehensive list in one place, or do I have to go digging? I rebuilt the engine on my MR2. The EG33 is more complicated, but I don't see why I couldn't do it.
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2005 RX-8 Grand Touring 2005 Outback 2002 Mercedes-Benz E320 wagon END OF LINE |
#13
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The seal kit is the most expensive set of parts for an overhaul assuming you use the aftermarket bearings instead of the factory bearings. There's really no justification to use the factory bearings unless you need a .03mm undersize or something. I posted a document on the crank work (it's in the piston thread); if you read that you'll understand about bearing sizes.
The actual part #'s for the bearings would be in the ecutune piston thread (or possibly the cam thread--the 1st purchasers of both items are the same group of people so they just kind of communicate in whichever thread gives a link at the time they have something to say). Unfortunately, no, there is no good collection of information on the network to assist you in overhauling an eg33. I think there needs to be. I've recently been promoting (doing it again here) the idea of creating a subsection of the mod mania forums for engine building info. Quote:
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