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  #1  
Old 01-03-2006, 03:53 AM
foxalex foxalex is offline
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Question Manual transmission post-problems & questions

Hi, all!

Last year my 5EAT trainy went out [ waisted 4500$ for the rebuild, and 15K miles later it went out again ], so I decided to go "manual". I got almost new 5 speed 2002 WRX trainy, and when I got home and look at the specs find out that I got MT.205. For those who trying to save money, I would recommend different one, because clutch pressure plate, disc and release bearing more expensive (almost 2 times). I got another ride and started working with my SVX on the weekends as a project car 6 month later (last week) I test drove it and there is few problems appear:

Problem #1[solved]: When I turn ignition key, nothing happened except buzzing noise from underneath the dash. But then sometimes it would start.
Resolution: Pull out the one of the plugs and checked for the spark when turning the key. There is no spark at the times when this problem appeared. Moving forward after some more testing, I located the problem: igniter relay next to the CPU. Thats where noise was coming from. Open it up and connected back. When I turn the key, relay starts switching between the contacts like crazy! Checked the contacts for the power. Seems like ground wire where loose somewhere down the line. Bypass it by splicing ground wire and connecting it. Hopefully that will help someone.

Problem #2: When I'm starting the car idle speed growing up instead of going down, Starts somewhere around 1100 - 1200 and then goes all the way up to 2000 Any suggestions? Timing? Vacuum leak somewhere maybe?

Problem #3: I should have done more research when I was buying the clutch. Seems I needed full face clutch disk, instead 6 pack which I got. When I'm releasing the clutch pedal and put little bit more gas for the faster start, then feels like clutch disk is bumping the flywheel. Do I need to replace the clutch disk ?

Problem #4: [related to problem #2] Clutch pedal has very little room between release and engage points. When I'm releasing clutch pedal, it's almost right away starting catching the clutch disk and thats when I feel the bumping ( previous problem). This is the way it should be or there is something wrong? Can I adjust this some how?

Problem #5: [not related to the swap or may be???] Even before I started doing conversion, my key would get stack in the ignition lock. Few times I actually was giving up, and just used spare key to lock the car. But eventually it would come out till the next time. But now after the swap and all the way trough I cannot take it out. Installing NSS back didn't help either. Do I need to replace the lock or did I miss something?

I would really appreciate any kind of ideas or suggestions
Thank you,

Aleksey

Last edited by foxalex; 01-03-2006 at 04:12 AM.
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  #2  
Old 01-03-2006, 05:34 AM
huck369's Avatar
huck369 huck369 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foxalex
Hi, all!

Last year my 5EAT trainy went out [ waisted 4500$ for the rebuild, and 15K miles later it went out again ], so I decided to go "manual". I got almost new 5 speed 2002 WRX trainy, and when I got home and look at the specs find out that I got MT.205. For those who trying to save money, I would recommend different one, because clutch pressure plate, disc and release bearing more expensive (almost 2 times). I got another ride and started working with my SVX on the weekends as a project car 6 month later (last week) I test drove it and there is few problems appear:

Problem #1[solved]: When I turn ignition key, nothing happened except buzzing noise from underneath the dash. But then sometimes it would start.
Resolution: Pull out the one of the plugs and checked for the spark when turning the key. There is no spark at the times when this problem appeared. Moving forward after some more testing, I located the problem: igniter relay next to the CPU. Thats where noise was coming from. Open it up and connected back. When I turn the key, relay starts switching between the contacts like crazy! Checked the contacts for the power. Seems like ground wire where loose somewhere down the line. Bypass it by splicing ground wire and connecting it. Hopefully that will help someone.
Sounds like this has nothing to do with the swap, but maybe the ignition interupt relay from the security system is sticking

Quote:
Originally Posted by foxalex
Problem #2: When I'm starting the car idle speed growing up instead of going down, Starts somewhere around 1100 - 1200 and then goes all the way up to 2000 Any suggestions? Timing? Vacuum leak somewhere maybe?
Most likly a vacuum leak....check all th efittings on the intake hose on the underside near the throttle body

Quote:
Originally Posted by foxalex
Problem #3: I should have done more research when I was buying the clutch. Seems I needed full face clutch disk, instead 6 pack which I got. When I'm releasing the clutch pedal and put little bit more gas for the faster start, then feels like clutch disk is bumping the flywheel. Do I need to replace the clutch disk ?
Sounds like clutch "Chatter" a stiffer pressure plate might fix it, but can usually be fixed by smoother clutch engagement

Quote:
Originally Posted by foxalex

Problem #4: [related to problem #2] Clutch pedal has very little room between release and engage points. When I'm releasing clutch pedal, it's almost right away starting catching the clutch disk and thats when I feel the bumping ( previous problem). This is the way it should be or there is something wrong? Can I adjust this some how?
Sounds like you still have a little air in the hydralic clutch line....try a vacuum bleeder to get it all out

Quote:
Originally Posted by foxalex

Problem #5: [not related to the swap or may be???] Even before I started doing conversion, my key would get stack in the ignition lock. Few times I actually was giving up, and just used spare key to lock the car. But eventually it would come out till the next time. But now after the swap and all the way trough I cannot take it out. Installing NSS back didn't help either. Do I need to replace the lock or did I miss something?
Try getting a new key cut from the key code, or VIN # (NOT cut from that key), as it sounds to me like a worn out key.


Hope this helps..
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  #3  
Old 01-03-2006, 04:56 PM
foxalex foxalex is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huck369
Try getting a new key cut from the key code, or VIN # (NOT cut from that key), as it sounds to me like a worn out key.


Hope this helps..

Hmm, interesting because the key which is stack my spare key, almost brand new. Unless, of couse that one was already made wrong, which is most likely true. I will call subaru dealer today, and order a new one probably.
Thank you, I will try that, but how can I pull this one out Even if I'll take the ignition lock out, how take the damn key out from it????
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  #4  
Old 01-03-2006, 06:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foxalex
Hi, all!

...
I would really appreciate any kind of ideas or suggestions
Thank you,

Aleksey
#2. Sounds to me like the high idle problem that occurs occasionally with 5MTs when the ECU is set to think the phantom 4eat is in drive.

#3. You need to ditch the 6 puck disk. You'll never get smooth engagement with that thing. Go buy an OEM WRX disk or get one of the aftermarket performance full circle organic disks.

#5. I'm wondering if this has to do with setting the shift lock solenoid. There are a few pins on a box under the console that need to be jumpered. Did you do that?
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  #5  
Old 01-03-2006, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbtoloczko
#2. Sounds to me like the high idle problem that occurs occasionally with 5MTs when the ECU is set to think the phantom 4eat is in drive.
Yes, that could be too. I just found huck's picture for the torque converter. Will try to do it tonight. Let you know.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mbtoloczko
#3. You need to ditch the 6 puck disk. You'll never get smooth engagement with that thing. Go buy an OEM WRX disk or get one of the aftermarket performance full circle organic disks.
F1 RACING STAGE 3 with 6-puck Carbotic clutch kit is the perfect set up for Street, Strip and Track applications. It's designed to hold 395 HP and 378 ft/lbs of torque. <-- I tought that would be enough


Quote:
Originally Posted by mbtoloczko
#5. I'm wondering if this has to do with setting the shift lock solenoid. There are a few pins on a box under the console that need to be jumpered. Did you do that?
What pins? Can you give me more info? Where to look for it?

Thank you

p.s. just started the car, and now there is new problem: engine light is on, and HUGE cloud of white smoke came out from the back. Not water, I guess. Going to pull the codes out. Any ideas?
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  #6  
Old 01-03-2006, 10:47 PM
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ensteele ensteele is offline
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Welcome to the site. I have had problems with the high idle too. I have found that if you turn the key off again and then restart, it will idle down again. Try it and see if it helps. I don't know what causes it, but others have had the same problem.
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  #7  
Old 01-04-2006, 05:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foxalex

What pins? Can you give me more info? Where to look for it?

IT's in my write up, there is a release on the original auto shifter to let the key release, you have to jump 2 of the wires from that connector to release the key.....it's in the console
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  #8  
Old 01-04-2006, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foxalex
Yes, that could be too. I just found huck's picture for the torque converter. Will try to do it tonight. Let you know.


F1 RACING STAGE 3 with 6-puck Carbotic clutch kit is the perfect set up for Street, Strip and Track applications. It's designed to hold 395 HP and 378 ft/lbs of torque. <-- I tought that would be enough


What pins? Can you give me more info? Where to look for it?

Thank you

p.s. just started the car, and now there is new problem: engine light is on, and HUGE cloud of white smoke came out from the back. Not water, I guess. Going to pull the codes out. Any ideas?
Turns out that its not necessary to ground the torque control pin. That was something that I tried shortly after I had my 5MT installed, and at first I thought it made a difference, but then I found out later that it doesn't. Huck added it to his instructions before I realized that it doesn't make a difference. However, the pin that needs to be grounded to control the idle is in the same area. I'll have to make up a picture some day.

Virtually all of the multi-puck clutch disks are not suitable for street use. They bite very hard into the clutch and flywheel, so clutch engagement is nearly instant. Its makes these disks be able to handle so much power, but it also makes it impossible to smoothly engage the clutch.

I have no idea about the white smoke except that it doesn't sound related to the transmission.
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  #9  
Old 01-05-2006, 12:06 AM
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Thank you everybody for the answers

I checked CPU for the error code and the number were 33, which is VSS. Now I remember, we didn't connect the 2nd VSS on the located on 5sp. After the reset smoke stopped coming out Well at least that was relieve

I think my ignition lock problem is either key or lock, but not the jumper, because if we are talking about original auto shifter jump, then I did that first thing

More to come...


p.s. Somebody broke into my g/f daughter car last night and stole car stereo which I got her for the New Year. And even worse that somebody who did it, doesn't even know how to do that, vandalized all front, ripped out with the plastic. Anyways.. Good night
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  #10  
Old 01-06-2006, 08:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbtoloczko
#3. You need to ditch the 6 puck disk. You'll never get smooth engagement with that thing. Go buy an OEM WRX disk or get one of the aftermarket performance full circle organic disks.
What do you think about this one?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EXEDY...ayphotohosting
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  #11  
Old 01-06-2006, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foxalex
That's the right idea. You just need to make sure that the Exedy disk is the same thickness as the 6-puck disk in your car now.
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  #12  
Old 01-06-2006, 11:28 PM
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Manual transmission few more questions

The speedometer sender

The backup light switch

The vehicle speed sensor

The clutch start safety switch


Does anyone have some information about how to connect them. I did checked smallcar basic instructions, which has some info. Can anyone point me in the right direction, where I can get little bit more details.

Thank you

Aleksey
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  #13  
Old 01-07-2006, 06:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foxalex
The speedometer sender

The backup light switch

The vehicle speed sensor

The clutch start safety switch
I got the spped sensor to plug in by modifying the grommit that all the wires come through on the passenger side of the firewall. The SVX plug could then reach the sendor on the tranny.

The backup light wires need to run to one of the plugs from the 4EAT wiring. Huck's how-to will tell you which pins.

Speed sensor = speedometer sender

Huck's how-to will also tell you how to wire the clutch switches.
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