SVX gravel rally car...surely not? Absolutely... - Page 8

dynomatt · #**106** 10-31-2006, 07:42 PM

Trust me...weight is the first thing on my mind.

As I've said to others, if I can get it to 1400kg ready to rally, that will be OK...anything less is a bonus.

Matt

dynomatt · #**107** 11-02-2006, 08:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dynomatt

Wiring harness...I'm in two minds. I could just fab a new one, but then, it's easier and quicker to just spend the time and modify the original one.

Completely rewiring is pretty expensive and time consuming. At this stage, I'm leaning towards reusing most bits, and hacking out the non essentials (and there's tons of that).

It's easier to have switches on the dash...probably where the factory AC stuff is. I'll need separate switches for ignition, fuel pumps, driving lights, etc...I'd actually prefer circuit breakers or relays.

I reckon the complete loom for the car, including all dash, fuse boxes etc, would weigh close to 50lbs. That's worth reducing.

Matt

So I went down the path of just hacking out bit's of the loom that I don't need. I've got a box full of wires that aren't used, and that's sitting at a couple of kg's which is a good start.

In my enthusiasm, I cut out a few key wires, but nothing bit of solder and a few joins won't fix. Got most of everything working again that I need (lights, horn, wipers etc. That's pleasing. Haven't tried to restart the engine yet, as the 6 speed is still sitting on the garage floor.

The wiring job will change down the track, probably when I decide that it's going to work well.

I've also got 2 of the DMS fitted, and they look the goods so far. Need to wind the spring platforms up a bit to get back some ground clearance, but otherwise, they are a very good product. The front strut top had to be modified to get it to fit.

My PWR radiator also turned up. We ordered them without the auto oil cooler but they were still more expensive than what you guys pay over there. Silly really when they are made 100km' from my house!!

I'm now playing with brakes, trying to chop and change. At this stage, it's lookign like I'll use 300ZX alloy calipers at the front, and probably the standard rears. My 15" wheels mean I am limited to smallish stuff. At this stage I'm looking at about a 296mm diameter disc (SVX is 301mm) that are 30mm thick (SVX 28) with some decent Ferodo DS3000 pads.

I've got the dash back in place (requirement of the rules) and will start pulling out the transmission for the 6MT swap probably tonight.

Have fitted a few panels back too, so it's starting to look like a proper car again!

Photos tonight when I'm back home.

Matt

benebob · #**108** 11-02-2006, 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dynomatt

So I went down the path of just hacking out bit's of the loom that I don't need. I've got a box full of wires that aren't used, and that's sitting at a couple of kg's which is a good start.

In my enthusiasm, I cut out a few key wires, but nothing bit of solder and a few joins won't fix. Got most of everything working again that I need (lights, horn, wipers etc. That's pleasing. Haven't tried to restart the engine yet, as the 6 speed is still sitting on the garage floor.

The wiring job will change down the track, probably when I decide that it's going to work well.

I've also got 2 of the DMS fitted, and they look the goods so far. Need to wind the spring platforms up a bit to get back some ground clearance, but otherwise, they are a very good product. The front strut top had to be modified to get it to fit.

My PWR radiator also turned up. We ordered them without the auto oil cooler but they were still more expensive than what you guys pay over there. Silly really when they are made 100km' from my house!!

I'm now playing with brakes, trying to chop and change. At this stage, it's lookign like I'll use 300ZX alloy calipers at the front, and probably the standard rears. My 15" wheels mean I am limited to smallish stuff. At this stage I'm looking at about a 296mm diameter disc (SVX is 301mm) that are 30mm thick (SVX 28) with some decent Ferodo DS3000 pads.

I've got the dash back in place (requirement of the rules) and will start pulling out the transmission for the 6MT swap probably tonight.

Have fitted a few panels back too, so it's starting to look like a proper car again!

Photos tonight when I'm back home.

Matt

Did you lighten your dash? I'd say I got about 8lbs off it after all the controls and stuff were removed . Still nice and strong though aside from the tunnel portion.

Why the PWR? Sounds pricey and a waste of money provided you crash and need to replace it and you're not running the ac compressor, etc down there. Take a look at SVXfiles locker for the Griffith he got for about half the price. Fits excellent for racing purposes and in my opinion looks better than the PWR does. I'm not a fan of putting in those nasty welds in a beautify engine bay!

dynomatt · #**109** 11-02-2006, 08:20 PM

Did I lighten my dash??? Does a bear **** in the woods?

Sure did...I'll take a photo of it tonight.

M

RSVX · #**110** 11-03-2006, 07:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dynomatt

Did I lighten my dash??? Does a bear **** in the woods?

Sure did...I'll take a photo of it tonight.

M

I always wanted a picture of a bear shitting in the woods. Thanks!

lhopp77 · #**111** 11-03-2006, 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RSVX

I always wanted a picture of a bear shitting in the woods. Thanks!

LOL, well I am working on that. I found the bear ****, but am trying to find the bear now.

dynomatt · #**112** 11-03-2006, 01:04 PM

For RSVX

dynomatt · #**113** 11-03-2006, 01:10 PM

So for the real update.

Here's a couple of photos...dash as it stands (missing the instrument cluster which will be going back in and a few switches and a switch panel that will go where the old AC controls went). I should say, I need the dash as the rules go. I've kind of pushed the rules a bit by cutting off the bottom bit, but we'll see what the scrutineers say.

The DMS installed, bit hard to see really.

And a picture of the wheels I'll be using...ugly, but strong.

M

SVXRide · #**114** 11-03-2006, 01:26 PM

Matt,
So, the DMS pieces bolted right in? I thought you had posted that you had to do some mods to make the fronts work?
-Bill

dynomatt · #**115** 11-03-2006, 01:32 PM

G'day Bill,

The front's do need you to modify the strut top as it doesn't clear the spring tower.

Tony's also asked for photos of the modifications, so with the second one, I'll take some step by step photos. As I said to him, it involves an angle grinder, sparks and lots of smoke...it's not pretty, but it's sound.

However, with that simple mod, they bolt right in. The sway bar hooks up at the front and it looks great. The only thing missing is the supports for the brake lines and ABS wires, which a few cable/zip ties would fix.

M

SVXRide · #**116** 11-03-2006, 02:24 PM

Almost G'evening here Matt

,

Thanks for the response! So, do the rear pieces bolt right in with no mods?

Also - any idea if WRX control arms are bolt in replacement for the SVX pieces? Would be nice if there were, as there are some light aluminum wrx pieces out there

-Bill

Quote:

Originally Posted by dynomatt

G'day Bill,

The front's do need you to modify the strut top as it doesn't clear the spring tower.

Tony's also asked for photos of the modifications, so with the second one, I'll take some step by step photos. As I said to him, it involves an angle grinder, sparks and lots of smoke...it's not pretty, but it's sound.

However, with that simple mod, they bolt right in. The sway bar hooks up at the front and it looks great. The only thing missing is the supports for the brake lines and ABS wires, which a few cable/zip ties would fix.

M

dynomatt · #**117** 11-03-2006, 04:10 PM

You've read 04STi's post about the arms too. I've got my eye on some over here, which, if 04Sti can get them sorted, I'll probably give them a go.

The rears go in, but instead of using SVX strut tops, you need to utilise standard GC8 WRX rear strut tops. Same bolt pattern, but a much simpler strut top. The rear of the SVX is again, unusually bulky and fouls on the spring tops.

Matt

dynomatt · #**118** 11-13-2006, 04:11 AM

So what's the latest update.

The auto is out, and the 6 speed is in (I wish I had access to some decent tools, jacks and mates...getting the auto out and the 6MT in by yourself is not much fun). Having some concerns about the 6 speed installation. I've used 5MT clutch, flywheel etc., but a 6 speed clutch fork, and have been told that's not going to work. Although, searching says that it will work...who's to know.

Before I installed the box I put in a fresh machined flywheel (stock weight for the 5MT) and a 3300lb button clutch.

The car starts and runs which is encouraging. Although, with no exhaust (that's later this week hopefully) she's a touch on the loud side...like ridiculously loud. My rules say I have to keep the factory exhaust headers (no extractors for me) but after that is free. Not sure what I'll end up doing yet, but reading about the buzzing, probably not a y-pipe. A twin system isn't so useful either.

You can see from the photos that it at least looks like a car again. You'll notice that the DMS has really lifted it up a bit...it looks like a truck, but I need that clearance in order to hit the rocky tracks at full speed.

Now unfortunately is all the fiddly little things that appear minor, but actually take ages.

Little things like shifter linkages (guys extend the 6MT shifter, but it's been pointed out to me that the 5MT is a longer linkage...anybody tried it?), clutch master and slave cylinder (I've gone for a Forester Turbo slave which has the remote resevoir which is needed to clear the bulkhead and ordered a 6MT slave to go with the 6MT fork), mudflaps, fire extinguishers, roll cage padding etc...it's never ending.

It got picked up by a truck again this morning and is off to get a bash plate fitted under the gearbox, and also to make the gearbox mount.

I've sent my hubs away to get longer studs pressed in, this is so that my 15" wheels will clear the calipers like I've said before. Getting new bearings at the same time, makes sense to do it now. Also removing the brake shields like Dessertrunner has done.

Also found out that my JDM parts I got with my front clip, had the vented rear discs...Australian spec cars got the solid rear discs...bonus!!. What did you US guys get??

Also ordered some competition brake pads. SBS carbon ceramics come highly recommended. I've previously used Ferodo DS3000's, but the SBS' seem like the next evolution. Quite noisy, but great friction.

I've setup the DMS to what the manufacturer recommend, which is about midway on the bump adjustment, and one click of rebound on the fronts. I'm not completely up to speed on suspension tuning, but hopefully the rally I'm doing next week will give me an opportunity to test it out.

Fitted my PWR radiator...bit of muckign around and massaging fan shrouds to get it in, but it looks great.

THat's about all I can think of for the moment.

Cheers,
Matt

TomsSVX · #**119** 11-13-2006, 07:02 AM

The reverse lockout cable is needed in order to have reverse on the car... The 5mt linkage MIGHT wok but I am not sure... the linkage needs to be extended 3 inches in order to fit and a custom rear mount must be adapted. The lockout cable needs to be lengthened along with the mount for the cable to the tranny. I will attach a pic that should explain it all.

Tom

dynomatt · #**120** 11-13-2006, 03:27 PM

Thanks for those pics Tom.

Did anybody explore whether you need the reverse lockout? I notice the default position for the lockout is the "unlocked" position. I'm aware you'd need to be careful on the 5th to 6th changes, but otherwise, I can't see it needing it?

And Tom, you know I'm interested in the rear mount you have in that pic...at the time, you couldn't recall who's it was...any ideas?

Cheers,
Matt