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  #16  
Old 12-16-2002, 09:47 PM
gschabel
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I thought the External Tranny Filter under the battery was OEM inthe later years?

Can someone confirm?
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  #17  
Old 12-16-2002, 09:59 PM
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Mine is a '94 and it has never had one installed, OE or otherwise.
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  #18  
Old 12-17-2002, 06:05 PM
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Series or parallel.

I think you have to look at the reason that the extra cooler is being used.

The heat that is the problem comes about from two reasons.

First is the heat that is produced by the torque converter when it is called on to lower the high overall gearing when we drive around in D at 2000 rpm. This is easily cured by using the gear lever, change down reduce the load and gearing thus reducing the heat.

The second reason is to do with the type of facings that were used on the torque converter lock-up clutch, when they were first built. I believe these were changed sometime during the 93 models, though this is not clear exactly when it was done.

The result of these early facings was to flack off the clutch, and as the oil from the TC is the hot oil, it is sent to the cooler for cooling, then to the gearbox passages to lube the shafts and gears.

The early models used an internal bronze mesh in the cooler in the bottom of the radiator to increase the cooling effect. It was this bronze mesh that collects the pieces of facings that come from the TC lock-up clutch. This then restricted or blocked the oil flow.

The end result was overheating of the oil but more important was the small pieces that didn't get caught, ended up being pumped into the lube passages in the box to rob the gears of lube and cooling. This was the cause of the epicyclic gearset failure and the burning up of the box.

A course filter was fitted to prevent the pieces getting to the cooler and a lot were fitted later by Subaru with a filter. By the time a lot were fitted, the damage was already done in the blocking of the lube passages, with gear failure to follow. Unfortunately a lot of the replacement boxs were fitted, without the blocked cooler being cleared, thus the replacement box also failed.

So what is the best thing to do?. If you have an early model I would disconnect the cooler and reverse flush the muck out of it, fit a course filter before the cooler, not a very fine one as it will restrict the flow too much. If you want to fit another cooler, I would fit it in series before the std. cooler. This way it will remove the high heat before the water cooler, thus saving the heat going into the engine cooling. The water cooler can then maintain the correct oil temp. for normal operation.

If you have a later model than 93 then you should not have a problem as it does not have the flaky facings. A filter may be useful in the interest of long life. Heat should not be a problem, unless you tow a trailer up mountain passes in D at low speed.

Harvey.
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  #19  
Old 12-24-2002, 09:43 AM
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I'm a little late to this thread but what the heck. On my 92, I bypassed the stock cooler completely and have two of the stacked, parallel flow vs tube & fin, style coolers. It was 26 degrees out and my tranny temp didn't get above 120 during the entire 30 minute highway commute. Then again, the torque converter never locked up either, so I'm paying for a slightly longer tranny life with gas mileage.

KuoH
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  #20  
Old 12-24-2002, 04:09 PM
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I don't have an extra tranny cooler. On the highway a couple days ago it took a long time for the tranny to heat up. The TC locked up when the tranny reached 140°. It was -10°C (14°F) outside at the time. Once the TC locked up the tranny temp dropped to under 100°F. Once that happens the TC unlocks to generate more heat.

The tranny did this twice in a 45min trip.
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  #21  
Old 12-27-2002, 07:21 AM
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Bypassed my stock cooler

I bypassed my stock cooler as did Mohrds and Huoh. Mine is in front of the AC condensor. On cold mornings it does not shift into 4th gear untill a few miles down the road. The converter kicks in later down the road.

I am a little worried about my tranny though. After it heats up it makes a rumble sound when it goes into 2nd gear and then a slight rumble when it goes into 4th. I need to change my fluid and tranny filter. It has been a while.

You can check out the cooler pics in my locker. http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/user.php?SVX%20JAZZ
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  #22  
Old 12-27-2002, 11:41 PM
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another vote for bypass

^
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  #23  
Old 12-30-2002, 10:34 AM
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I use series with a diverter valve. The cooler is on the driver side which is where the thermostat is located so the engine cooling kicks in sooner. This also allows for lower coolant temps comeing out of the radiator on the passenger side before going to the external cooler. I have tube and fin cooler. The cooler is completely by-passed in the winter with the diverter valve.
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  #24  
Old 12-30-2002, 03:02 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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Re: Bypassed my stock cooler

Quote:
Originally posted by SVX JAZZ
I bypassed my stock cooler as did Mohrds and Huoh. Mine is in front of the AC condensor. On cold mornings it does not shift into 4th gear untill a few miles down the road. The converter kicks in later down the road.

I am a little worried about my tranny though. After it heats up it makes a rumble sound when it goes into 2nd gear and then a slight rumble when it goes into 4th. I need to change my fluid and tranny filter. It has been a while.

You can check out the cooler pics in my locker. http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/user.php?SVX%20JAZZ
Paul, It sounds like you need to get the band adjusted in the tranmission. It is applied in 2nd and 4th. Adjusting it now will save the tranmission for later.

Harvey.
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  #25  
Old 12-30-2002, 03:16 PM
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Re: Re: Bypassed my stock cooler

Quote:
Originally posted by oab_au


Paul, It sounds like you need to get the band adjusted in the tranmission. It is applied in 2nd and 4th. Adjusting it now will save the tranmission for later.

Harvey.
Hi Harvey,

Just turned Summer down your way eh?

Is band adjustment something I can do at home or is it best left to a mechanic?

I think I remember a few years back someone saying something about turing a screw on the tranny, but that you could loose the adjustmant bolt in the tranny if ou adjusted it too far.

Thanks,
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  #26  
Old 12-30-2002, 03:48 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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Re: Re: Re: Bypassed my stock cooler

Quote:
Originally posted by SVX JAZZ


Hi Harvey,

Just turned Summer down your way eh?

Is band adjustment something I can do at home or is it best left to a mechanic?

I think I remember a few years back someone saying something about turing a screw on the tranny, but that you could loose the adjustmant bolt in the tranny if ou adjusted it too far.

Thanks,
Yes Paul warm enough 9.30 AM and it's 80*F. Going to be a hot new year's.
The band adjustment is by a screw above the dipstick tube. It is hard to get to, Though some have done it ok, Doug I think has done it.

It is a screw with a lock nut, loosen the nut, tighten the band screw to 6.5 ft lb then back off the screw 3 turns and lock up the lock nut. Don't unscrew the adjuster too far as the link inside the box can drop off.

Harvey.
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  #27  
Old 02-04-2003, 07:30 PM
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Could someone post pictures of the difference between parallel and in series? Is behind the a/c condensor the same as parallel?

And when you install them, do you need to add more ATF to compensate for more fluid travel or will the b&m cooler have instructions?
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Last edited by Tim; 02-04-2003 at 07:33 PM.
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