Mid Engine SVX concept. - Page 5

Dessertrunner · #61 10-18-2012, 09:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 92 SVX

Go with a custom made coil over set up, the coils, as well as the entire thing is smaller and lighter it will allow you to run wider tires with less - offset(to keep from tire rub on fenders)

I believe the guy that owned icings pearlie managed to fit 20 inch rims on it so the size can be done I would NOT run too much side wall as it will cause flex and in extreme cases fold over. You will have more weight on those rear wheels and with weight transfer and hard cornering you dont want to lose a tire.

We are doing just that I have a set of 50mm DMS coil overs to go on the car
http://www.dmshocks.com/home_12.htm

Okay back to Matts point,
I have to mod or build a new back subframe to mount the engine and gearbox to as part of that I need to build a jig to hold everything together while I develop and build the subframe. Matts point was right I was jumping ahead of myself and making it harder then it needs to be. As I see it by building a jig for the back sub frame I then can built new and improved subframes without a lot of effort till I have it perfect for what I need. As with any job its never right the first time and will take a couple of goes.

Tony

Dessertrunner · #62 10-19-2012, 02:09 AM

Just looking at this artical on the forum of the Subaru powered factory Five 818 they are building. Its seems that with the rear engine car they don't bother with power steering infact they pull the guts out of the rack to make it easier.

I need to think what I am going to do.

Here is the link.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ding-wrx-parts

92 SVX · #63 10-19-2012, 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dessertrunner

Just looking at this artical on the forum of the Subaru powered factory Five 818 they are building. Its seems that with the rear engine car they don't bother with power steering infact they pull the guts out of the rack to make it easier.

I need to think what I am going to do.

Here is the link.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ding-wrx-parts

Makes sense to me, the need for the power is all the weight sitting on the wheels.
remove that weight and the power may be too responsive.

icingdeath88 · #64 10-19-2012, 12:07 PM

You could get an MR2 or xt6 electric power steering pump.

legacyau · #65 10-20-2012, 12:54 AM

As much as we all hate the Aussie topgear they did prove a point testing a hsv crummydore that had 20's on it then running the same car with 18's and it was several seconds quicker per lap

Dessertrunner · #66 10-20-2012, 02:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by legacyau

As much as we all hate the Aussie topgear they did prove a point testing a hsv crummydore that had 20's on it then running the same car with 18's and it was several seconds quicker per lap

Its was quicker with which tyres the 20"s or 18's ???

Tony

Edit
Okay found the video of the story it was more abou the side wall size, in short low profile tyres are a waste of money.

Dessertrunner · #67 10-20-2012, 02:54 AM

Okay we have news, engine is in the engine bay, still need to lift up a bit more and sort out the clutch lever hitting the cross beam. I am aiming to get the engine as low as I can so the existing sump has to go to save height. Also I am aiming to think through the exhaust now as i can cause problem with the height. My aim tomorrow is to move the engine close to or into its final home then move the subframe up for cutting and install. To a degree the existing moded subframe will be used as the prototype for the final version. Enough talk here is the images.

Tony

'E' · #68 10-20-2012, 03:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dessertrunner

Its was quicker with which tyres the 20"s or 18's ???

Tony

Quicker with 18's as it had 20's to start with

92 SVX · #69 10-20-2012, 11:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 'E'

Quicker with 18's as it had 20's to start with

Weight of the rim tire combo? generally 20's would be heavier, and that unsprung weight would translate into slower.

Dessertrunner · #70 10-20-2012, 01:25 PM

Photos of the new Subaru powered Factory Five car about to be released as a Kit.

Dessertrunner · #71 10-21-2012, 04:15 AM

Had to cut the cross beam also did the cut and mounting of the olod rear diff subframe so it can hold the gearbox and motor. Having a bit of a challange to get the engine support beam right but its coming together.

Matt was right it would have been hell if I had changed all that now. I can always improve the suspension later if I want to.

Here is a couple of photos.

Tony

Dessertrunner · #72 10-22-2012, 03:38 AM

You should read this artical I found the car because its in this months Top Gear mag.

It makes me excited to get the Mid engine SVX going.

http://www.pistonheads.com/doc.asp?c=47&i=8080

Dessertrunner · #73 10-22-2012, 04:24 AM

Underside,

oab_au · #74 10-22-2012, 04:42 PM

Very compact, all mounted on a frame.
That is a front drive, east/west, engine-gearbox unit, that is very short front to back. A lot shorter than our unit.

Looks very interesting.

Harvey.

Dessertrunner · #75 10-22-2012, 07:35 PM

Hi Harvey glad you jumped in,
The framing of the rear engine and suspension is not going good at all. I am sure it will look great and make everyone feel warm and fazzy but I feel it will be to heavy, lack strength and ignore thinks like how to get the exhaust pipes out the back.

In the image above the left side is the engine and the front of the car the right side is the back of the car. Photo taken throught the left rear wheel well.

This is what is spinning in my head,

- In one of the artical I read about that car they said the first ones (early models) of the car, the back subframe was not strong enough and it effect the cars handling, must have flexed.
- In a rear engine car the only way to get the engine out is throught the bottom which means that aspect need to be considered now.
- Do I want to be able to pull the gearbox without pulling the engine.
- Bazza mentioned that there is such a thing as having the engine weight to low, it will effect the handling, I think he said its like a boat. Can't get my head around that.
- Need a subframe that offers some degree of flexiability if I want to change anchour position.
- The front trailing arm is about 150mm back from the the engine mounts so the engine support beam has to be beefed up heaps to handle the side leverage .
- Bushes in subframe are designed to flex but given the amount of weight increase we are adding I think they will flex far to much.
- Back of gearbox needs to currently have its own support beam which is not part of the main subframe.
- Looking at the photo, were to send the exhaust becomes an issue I don't want to be stuck like our current cars and have to go between the cross beam and the ground as that will limit how low the car can go so I need to go over the cross beam.

Having seen how well the support beam was built in the Renault I think it best to go that sort of way one question I have is which would be stronger pipe or square RHS. I assume it would be pipe.

I am interested in the comments and opinions.

Tony