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  #16  
Old 07-05-2009, 11:07 AM
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Re: 11:1 CR Race/Street Engine build

Quote:
Originally Posted by TomsSVX View Post

Remote mount electric water pump w/ aux cooling paths to cyl heads to try and repair the overheating issues tracked EG33's have had in the past
Next event I was going to run I had planned on installing a switch on the control side of the cooling fans so I could just flip thy switch for full fan function and try to prevent this......

Remote mount water pump sounds way COOLER!!!!

Is it the coolant pump/poor passage design causing these problems? Can you disclose any pics or diagrams?
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Rebuilt P/S pump info... http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=50918

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  #17  
Old 07-05-2009, 11:19 AM
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Re: 11:1 CR Race/Street Engine build

I noticed that those who have tracked the automatic SVX do not seem to have had the overheating problems that us manual transmission folks have had. Harry (NewSVX) and Paisan have both tracked their cars without incident. Almost everyone who has tracked a manual car has at least had blowback into the overflow tank. I think this is related to the 6400rpm redline mandated by the automatic shift points versus the 7200 to 7500 rpm that manual drivers use.

Even Jack Laverty (Eg33 RS showcased here by RallyBob) has had a lot of overheating problems.

If overheating is related to high revs, I want to get good torque between 5500 and 6500 so I can use 7000 to 7200 as a shift point.

As for the cost, by the time it is all done, pistons, long block build, injectors, Hydra Nemesis, equal length headers, dual exhaust, it is probably going to be pushing $12k.
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95 LS-i Red, 31,xxx; bone stock for now; Daily Driver

94 LS-i Emerald Pearl, 106,xxx,; 246 whp; Tomyx snorkus and HKS Cold air intake; PWR aluminum radiator, silicone hoses; Inline thermostat; enhanced coolant routing; external power steering and oil coolers; Phenolic intake manifold spacers; 2004 WRX 5 speed transmission; ACT Clutch Kit, Heavy Duty Pressure Plate, Lightweight flywheel, performance disc; Group N motor mounts; ‘07 WRX 4-pot front calipers, cryo-treated slotted Tribeca rotors; Hawk HPS ferro-carbon pads; Frozenrotor rear slotted rotors; SS brake lines, Axxis Ultimate pads; Rota Torque 17x8 wheels; 245/40-17 Bridgestone RE01-R's; Koni inserts with Ground Control coilovers, Eibach springs; K-Mac camber/caster adjustable strut mounts; Urethane swaybar bushings; Bontrager rear sway bar; Urethane differential bushing; Custom Whiteline adjustable rear lateral links; Outlaw Engineering forged underdrive pulley; custom grind Web intake and exhaust cams (11 mm lift, 250° duration); solid lifters; CP custom aluminum forged 11 to 1 pistons, Brian Crower coated SS intake & exhaust valves; Brian Crower upgraded springs w/ titanium retainers; NGK sparkplugs; RallyBob (Bob Legere) ported and polished cylinder heads; Eagle H-beam rods; ACL Bearings; Cometic Head gaskets; ARP head studs & fasteners; Hydra Nemesis EMS; Wideband O2 sensor; 740cc Injectors; Walbro 255lph fuel pump; Upgraded WRX starter; Equal length SS headers (3 into 1); dual Magnaflow cat converters; 2 into 1 into 2 SS exhaust with Bullet muffler; OT Fiberglass hood; Oil pressure gauge; Programmable shift light,

2017 Subaru Forester XT, metallic dark gray, 29,xxx

2005 Porsche 911 Turbo S Cabrio, 24,xxx

2006 Subaru Outback LL Bean, 166,xxx sold

92 LSL Dark Teal, Smallcar Shift Kit - sold
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  #18  
Old 07-05-2009, 12:55 PM
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Re: 11:1 CR Race/Street Engine build

Quote:
Originally Posted by SomethingElse View Post
Next event I was going to run I had planned on installing a switch on the control side of the cooling fans so I could just flip thy switch for full fan function and try to prevent this......

Remote mount water pump sounds way COOLER!!!!

Is it the coolant pump/poor passage design causing these problems? Can you disclose any pics or diagrams?
While this may help at low speeds, the fans can actually become an obstruction at high rates of speed and be detrimental to the efficiency of the cooling system. The electric pump is to increase flow and also allow the aux cooling I will be adding to this engine. It is hard to explain without having the engine in front of you, so lets wait until I can get pictures of it all finished

Tom
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  #19  
Old 07-05-2009, 04:26 PM
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Re: 11:1 CR Race/Street Engine build

I read somewhere that the stock water pump of the SVX is extremely efficient, sometimes better than the aux electric pumps. Will the stock pump remain along with the electric pump or are you planning to delete the stock one?
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  #20  
Old 07-05-2009, 05:37 PM
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Re: 11:1 CR Race/Street Engine build

Works for me. Looks like a killer build, can't wait to see what it will do!




Also, the parts vulture in me wants to know if you have two left over ACL bearings you want to get rid of.
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  #21  
Old 07-05-2009, 08:08 PM
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Re: 11:1 CR Race/Street Engine build

nope, they go back on the shelf with the other couple of sets I have for future engine rebuilds.

Tom
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  #22  
Old 07-05-2009, 09:18 PM
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Re: 11:1 CR Race/Street Engine build

Sounds like a intresting build

Are you keeping it 3.3 or are you going to bore the block out a lil bit?
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  #23  
Old 07-06-2009, 01:50 PM
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Re: 11:1 CR Race/Street Engine build

Quote:
Are you keeping it 3.3 or are you going to bore the block out a lil bit?
A very slight overbore. Maybe a little over 3.4 ltr displacement.
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95 LS-i Red, 31,xxx; bone stock for now; Daily Driver

94 LS-i Emerald Pearl, 106,xxx,; 246 whp; Tomyx snorkus and HKS Cold air intake; PWR aluminum radiator, silicone hoses; Inline thermostat; enhanced coolant routing; external power steering and oil coolers; Phenolic intake manifold spacers; 2004 WRX 5 speed transmission; ACT Clutch Kit, Heavy Duty Pressure Plate, Lightweight flywheel, performance disc; Group N motor mounts; ‘07 WRX 4-pot front calipers, cryo-treated slotted Tribeca rotors; Hawk HPS ferro-carbon pads; Frozenrotor rear slotted rotors; SS brake lines, Axxis Ultimate pads; Rota Torque 17x8 wheels; 245/40-17 Bridgestone RE01-R's; Koni inserts with Ground Control coilovers, Eibach springs; K-Mac camber/caster adjustable strut mounts; Urethane swaybar bushings; Bontrager rear sway bar; Urethane differential bushing; Custom Whiteline adjustable rear lateral links; Outlaw Engineering forged underdrive pulley; custom grind Web intake and exhaust cams (11 mm lift, 250° duration); solid lifters; CP custom aluminum forged 11 to 1 pistons, Brian Crower coated SS intake & exhaust valves; Brian Crower upgraded springs w/ titanium retainers; NGK sparkplugs; RallyBob (Bob Legere) ported and polished cylinder heads; Eagle H-beam rods; ACL Bearings; Cometic Head gaskets; ARP head studs & fasteners; Hydra Nemesis EMS; Wideband O2 sensor; 740cc Injectors; Walbro 255lph fuel pump; Upgraded WRX starter; Equal length SS headers (3 into 1); dual Magnaflow cat converters; 2 into 1 into 2 SS exhaust with Bullet muffler; OT Fiberglass hood; Oil pressure gauge; Programmable shift light,

2017 Subaru Forester XT, metallic dark gray, 29,xxx

2005 Porsche 911 Turbo S Cabrio, 24,xxx

2006 Subaru Outback LL Bean, 166,xxx sold

92 LSL Dark Teal, Smallcar Shift Kit - sold
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  #24  
Old 07-06-2009, 05:53 PM
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Re: 11:1 CR Race/Street Engine build

When is this build estimated to be completed?
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  #25  
Old 07-06-2009, 06:19 PM
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Re: 11:1 CR Race/Street Engine build

I am hoping to have the long block completed by the end of the month. Basically my hold up is getting the cams back from Web to measure needed shims and order them. Once that is done I will do the R&R of the engine and begin working in the water pump & headers.

Tom
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  #26  
Old 07-06-2009, 11:49 PM
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Re: 11:1 CR Race/Street Engine build

Quote:
Originally Posted by shotgunslade View Post
A very slight overbore. Maybe a little over 3.4 ltr displacement.

Dan, its nice that you don't give up on this car.

I hope you'll get out of most of the fun on the track days after your build.

*looking forward to seeing the results*
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  #27  
Old 07-07-2009, 04:33 AM
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Re: 11:1 CR Race/Street Engine build

Guys I think the cooling could be a big problem for our engine. We have a guy over here who has a racing buggy (think you guys call them sand rails) and it has a SVX engine. He can't keep it cool even though his radiator is about 2 times bigger then our PBR.
He just brought a multi flow radiator. Should hear by the weekend if it fixed the problem. It seems that we need to keep the coolet in the radiator for a longer time to get rid of more heat.
I am not going to race my car till I fix the heating issue.
Tony
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1992 - SVX 255 K Wife (Want to stay Married so not allowed to fit SC)
1992 - SVX Pearl with black roof race car roll cauge etc ready to race. Ex Tasman Targa car.
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1992 - SVX red & Black being converted to Mid Engine.
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Owned 5 others Subaru back to a 1974 1400 GSR.

Last edited by Dessertrunner; 07-07-2009 at 04:37 AM.
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  #28  
Old 07-07-2009, 04:37 AM
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Re: 11:1 CR Race/Street Engine build

I miss it on the track. The new roadster is too much like work. Very twitchy, very tail happy. Scary fast, but scary. Also, I loved being king of the hill when it rained, rather than the soaked guy in the little orange car sliding all over the place.

Have fond memories of good turns, especially after I got a handle on how to drive it. Looking forward to more of the same. Will need about 1000 miles to break it in, so it might be next season before I'm back out on the track.
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95 LS-i Red, 31,xxx; bone stock for now; Daily Driver

94 LS-i Emerald Pearl, 106,xxx,; 246 whp; Tomyx snorkus and HKS Cold air intake; PWR aluminum radiator, silicone hoses; Inline thermostat; enhanced coolant routing; external power steering and oil coolers; Phenolic intake manifold spacers; 2004 WRX 5 speed transmission; ACT Clutch Kit, Heavy Duty Pressure Plate, Lightweight flywheel, performance disc; Group N motor mounts; ‘07 WRX 4-pot front calipers, cryo-treated slotted Tribeca rotors; Hawk HPS ferro-carbon pads; Frozenrotor rear slotted rotors; SS brake lines, Axxis Ultimate pads; Rota Torque 17x8 wheels; 245/40-17 Bridgestone RE01-R's; Koni inserts with Ground Control coilovers, Eibach springs; K-Mac camber/caster adjustable strut mounts; Urethane swaybar bushings; Bontrager rear sway bar; Urethane differential bushing; Custom Whiteline adjustable rear lateral links; Outlaw Engineering forged underdrive pulley; custom grind Web intake and exhaust cams (11 mm lift, 250° duration); solid lifters; CP custom aluminum forged 11 to 1 pistons, Brian Crower coated SS intake & exhaust valves; Brian Crower upgraded springs w/ titanium retainers; NGK sparkplugs; RallyBob (Bob Legere) ported and polished cylinder heads; Eagle H-beam rods; ACL Bearings; Cometic Head gaskets; ARP head studs & fasteners; Hydra Nemesis EMS; Wideband O2 sensor; 740cc Injectors; Walbro 255lph fuel pump; Upgraded WRX starter; Equal length SS headers (3 into 1); dual Magnaflow cat converters; 2 into 1 into 2 SS exhaust with Bullet muffler; OT Fiberglass hood; Oil pressure gauge; Programmable shift light,

2017 Subaru Forester XT, metallic dark gray, 29,xxx

2005 Porsche 911 Turbo S Cabrio, 24,xxx

2006 Subaru Outback LL Bean, 166,xxx sold

92 LSL Dark Teal, Smallcar Shift Kit - sold
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  #29  
Old 07-07-2009, 04:37 AM
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Re: 11:1 CR Race/Street Engine build

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dessertrunner View Post
Guys I think the cooling could be a big problem for our engine. We have a guy over here who has a racing buggy (think you guys caal them sand rails) and it has a SVX engine. He can't keep it cool even though his radiator is about 2 times bigger then our PBR.
He just brought a multi flow radiator. Should hear by the weekend if it fixed the problem. It seems that we need to keep the coolet in the radiator for a longer time to get rid of more heat.
I am not going to race my car till I fix the heating issue.
Tony
Tony, what mods did he do on the EG33?
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1994 Silver SVX in hybernation, awaiting for the monsterous awakening (Lebanon)
1967 Mercedes-Benz 250SL Euro Specs, Hard/Softtop, White/Red. Under Complete Restoration
2013 Mercedes-Benz SL350 Euro Specs, White/Red. Mint... Another step into SL Collection.
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  #30  
Old 07-07-2009, 05:00 AM
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Re: 11:1 CR Race/Street Engine build

As I have tried to explain before many times and so have others, the overheating is not due to an insufficient radiator. When the needle is in the red, the coolant comming out of the radiator is still at ideal temp. It is a restriction/stagnation in the engine's cooling system. That is why I will be keeping the stock flow path and merely adding new ports to the cylinder heads for aux cold water inputs to keep the water from boiling and causing the spikes in water temp.

Tom
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