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  #46  
Old 07-06-2008, 06:45 PM
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Re: Young Tom, someone help ASAP.

depends on the year/model...
more than likely it is the retaining spring for the hill-holder system... don't worry, no one has put one in an SVX
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  #47  
Old 07-07-2008, 09:06 AM
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Re: Young Tom, someone help ASAP.

It is meant to keep backed pressure on the fork to try and save the trhow-out bearing when the clutch pedal isn't being used.

Tom
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  #48  
Old 07-07-2008, 11:19 AM
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Almost done. Only problem I'm seeing is the brake lines are all over the place so I'm going to have a hell of a time putting the brake cylinder in.
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  #49  
Old 07-07-2008, 07:08 PM
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Re: Young Tom, someone help ASAP.

Where are the moderators?????????????????

This thread should be in "mods", duh.
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  #50  
Old 07-07-2008, 09:28 PM
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Re: Young Tom, someone help ASAP.

NEGATORY. This thread is designed for questions of a technical nature and is ongoing.

After all, none of these parts can be considered mods until they are installed.
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3 pedals, 5 speeds., restoration underway.
2012 Honda Insight, slow but cute.
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  #51  
Old 07-09-2008, 10:10 PM
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Re: Young Tom, someone help ASAP.

Shift linkage is now mounted (using the stock WRX mount ). I test fitted my stock prop shaft. There is about 3 inches of empty space between it and the rear diff if I shove it all the way in. Do I want to have the new one be 3 inches longer or 2 and leave an inch of space?

Also what's the best stuff to use for the clutch? Brake fluid?
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3 pedals, 5 speeds., restoration underway.
2012 Honda Insight, slow but cute.
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  #52  
Old 07-10-2008, 07:12 AM
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Re: Young Tom, someone help ASAP.

You need a shaft that is 2 inches longer... THere needs to be at least an inch of play there for when the transmission moves up and down it needs to slide in and out of the trans a little

Tom
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  #53  
Old 07-10-2008, 06:07 PM
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prop shaft

The best guys in town do not think they can lengthen it so they want to just build me a new one. They quoted me at $400-500 for it! Two years ago it was $200...

Someone give me input. They don't have the same diameter Subaru uses, and they want to use 3 inch steel tube and make it a one-piece. Is this a bad idea? I remember hearing if it's not perfectly balanced I may get vibration at highway speed. Luckily I do get to keep my stock shaft so when/if I upgrade to a 6 speed I can slide it in.

They can do 2.5 inch but are worried about the torque.

Thoughts?

I have until Monday to tweak and finalize the deal.
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  #54  
Old 07-11-2008, 07:25 AM
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Re: prop shaft

Quote:
Originally Posted by NikFu S. View Post
The best guys in town do not think they can lengthen it so they want to just build me a new one. They quoted me at $400-500 for it! Two years ago it was $200...

Someone give me input. They don't have the same diameter Subaru uses, and they want to use 3 inch steel tube and make it a one-piece. Is this a bad idea? I remember hearing if it's not perfectly balanced I may get vibration at highway speed. Luckily I do get to keep my stock shaft so when/if I upgrade to a 6 speed I can slide it in.

They can do 2.5 inch but are worried about the torque.

Thoughts?

I have until Monday to tweak and finalize the deal.
If they use the right tubing all should be well... The tubing on all my shafts is the same diameter as the yolk... Just have them extend the front half of the drieshaft 2" using 2.25-2.5" tubing. Remember it will only ever see 50% of the power you are putting to the wheels. I have used them in modified cars without issue

Tom

Tom

Last edited by TomsSVX; 07-11-2008 at 07:54 AM.
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  #55  
Old 07-11-2008, 12:52 PM
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Re: prop shaft

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Originally Posted by TomsSVX View Post
Just have them extend the front half of the drieshaft 2" using 2.25-2.5" tubing.

Tom

Tom
That's the first option I threw at them and they say they can't do it.
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3 pedals, 5 speeds., restoration underway.
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  #56  
Old 07-11-2008, 01:38 PM
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Re: prop shaft

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Originally Posted by NikFu S. View Post
That's the first option I threw at them and they say they can't do it.
No reason they "cannot" more of a "will not" scenario... I don't know what else to tell you except try and find a 95-99 legacy 5mt drivshaft

Tom
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  #57  
Old 07-11-2008, 08:12 PM
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I went back over there today and asked a few questions. His reasoning behind the 3 inches is because it is one piece and has no central support, he doesn't want it to wobble at high rotational speeds, whereas a smaller diameter has a greater risk in that area. They are also pretty confident their shaft will be lighter than mine so I told them to go ahead with it. It's been my intention for years to get a light(er) weight shaft for years. I'm willing to eat a couple hundred bucks for it.
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3 pedals, 5 speeds., restoration underway.
2012 Honda Insight, slow but cute.
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  #58  
Old 07-12-2008, 09:45 AM
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Re: Young Tom, someone help ASAP.

I seem to remember one piece shafts being discussed before. The consensus was that it's a bad idea due to the angle of the transmission and rear diff.
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  #59  
Old 07-12-2008, 04:34 PM
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How do you bleed the clutch?
I dumped some liquid in there, pumped the slave, it made bubble noises and the level dropped, I put more in, pumped more, got nothing, pedal still has no feedback at all.
I have no idea how this is supposed to work.

I'm a little worried about Tom's clutch pedal and the way when I push it back, it loads a spring and adjusts itself and stays back. Seems counter-intuitive. (NEVERMIND, that's normal apparently)

Also, that little spring on the fork, is it supposed to be pulling it to the front of the car or back?

Soon as I get this clutch figured out I can install the throttle body and start the car.

---
This thread here answered some of my questions, but not all.
http://www.roadrace-autox.com/bbs/fo...w.asp?tid=1012
I'm going to try what WRXracer111 says.

---
Cylinders now operating.
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"That which can be asserted without evidence
can be dismissed without evidence."


'92 Dark Teal SVX LS-L, >146,000m
3 pedals, 5 speeds., restoration underway.
2012 Honda Insight, slow but cute.

Last edited by NikFu S.; 07-12-2008 at 07:14 PM.
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  #60  
Old 07-12-2008, 08:45 PM
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Re: Young Tom, someone help ASAP.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NikFu S. View Post
How do you bleed the clutch?
I dumped some liquid in there, pumped the slave, it made bubble noises and the level dropped, I put more in, pumped more, got nothing, pedal still has no feedback at all.
I have no idea how this is supposed to work.

I'm a little worried about Tom's clutch pedal and the way when I push it back, it loads a spring and adjusts itself and stays back. Seems counter-intuitive. (NEVERMIND, that's normal apparently)

Also, that little spring on the fork, is it supposed to be pulling it to the front of the car or back?

Soon as I get this clutch figured out I can install the throttle body and start the car.

---
This thread here answered some of my questions, but not all.
http://www.roadrace-autox.com/bbs/fo...w.asp?tid=1012
I'm going to try what WRXracer111 says.

---
Cylinders now operating.
Yup, subaru hydro-clutch will flop right to the floor if that is what you mean. It goes away as you get the pressure up! I find that it actually helps with the initial bleed. Just bleed it like your brakes, just takes a while longer. I use clear tubing so I can see when the bubbles stop.... let it sit over night and then bleed a little bit more to be sure.
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ECUTune2v7 - 4.11 5 Speed - Sprung 6 Puck Clutch - D&S Rotors - SS Brake & Clutch Lines - HKS Panel Filter - HeaderBack Exhaust -80GB Hard Drive - GroupN Engine Mounts - - some other "tricks"
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
In progess: track down mystery noise <-identified, paint the new dash, get better pic
Spring plans: Replace Trans - Integrate ECU with the carputer - Suspension - Go back to STI Filter - Paint? Maybe not - Next Oil change: Purolator L30165

Member #995 | My Locker | My New Locker

Catch you next at: ? Auto-X ?
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