Replacing rear bearing. Bolt seized in bushing.

[Crazy_pilot]

I'm working on pulling off the rear knuckle to replace the bearing. It was all going pretty smooth until I went to remove the lateral link bolt (the long one). The nut came off fine, actually easier than I expected, and the bolt spins freely. The problem is that it appears that the steel sleeve inside the bushing of the rear lateral link has seized onto the bolt. The sleeve will turn freely inside the rubber bushing, but I can't pull the bolt/sleeve out.

As shown in this picture, the bolt (#18) is seized with the bushing (#22) of the rear link.



So I'm at a snag until I can get this figured out. I've come up with two options so far:

1. Shred the rubber, replace the bushing.

2. Remove the bolt holding the inner end of the lateral link in place (#13 in picture above) and remove the link and the big bolt and then screw around with it. This might not be possible though, the nut on the inner bolt is so severely rusted that it will probably just round off.

Any other options anyone car think of? I don't have access to air tools or a torch.

[Crazy_pilot]

Anyone? I'd like to get the knuckle off tomorrow so I can bring it to work with me and get it on the press on Monday.

[Speedklix]

I used a punch and a hammer...
Before you get too far, have you removed the other bolt yet? (#20)

That is the real tough one!!

[Psychosis5150]

If your going to be doing any more suspension or exhaust work, a cheap hand held propane torch, about $30 US (a lot less than new bushings) will be an invaluable tool, and save you time and money in just a few repairs. I've found heating the bolt only, and allowing the bolt to cool, with good soakings of a penetrating oil (anything stronger than WD-40) in between heat cycles, will get most rusted nuts and bolts loose. Just make sure to heat only the bolt, but not so much that you melt the rubber. If that doesn't work, thread the nut on so it protects the threads, and give it a few good cracks with a hammer while heating the bolt. Hit both the nut side, and the head of the bolt, try to work it back and forth a bit. Give it some good twists with the wrench during all this as well. Something a little bigger than a claw hammer is going to be needed though... If a torch isn't an option, just the penetrating oil and the hammer might give you some results as well. If you "end up" with the time, soak with the oil overnight beforehand. Hopefully this helps.

[Crazy_pilot]

Huzzah! I removed the inner cam bolt on the lateral link, and dropped the link and bolt out together. Of course, since I just screwed up the setting on the cam bolt, I'm going to need a rear alignment. Yay. I didn't find #20 too difficult. 17mm wrench on the outter side with half of my jack bar on the end braced against the ground, my trusty socket wrench on the other side with the other half of my jack bar for leverage, and off she goes! Now I just need to figure out how to disconnect the ABS sensor and remove the parking brake cable from the knuckle, and that's it.

[Crazy_pilot]

And she's off. I have to say, I have never seen a dirtier peice of automobile. I can say without a doubt that the bearing is toast. Simply spinning the hub by hand makes a grinding noise.

How do I get the sway bar end link off the knuckle? I removed the bolt holding it to the sway bar and left it attached at the knuckle, but the boot is torn and it won't last much longer. There appears to be a nut under all the rust. Any idea what size it is? I tried a few sizes and nothing can get a solid grip.

[svxstarship]

I knew it was going to be like that on an Ottawa car. I had to saw mine off.

[Speedklix]

it was bolt 20 that I had to cut off and I've seen a bunch of people struggle with it on here, surprised you had the opposite.

remember to check you hub while it is apart. I forgot one of mine and I know I'm gonna regret it.

[wawazat??]

OEm unrusted swaybar nut and the flat on the opposite side of the bar are both 14mm. Not sure what yours is now however.

Todd