Smallcar shift kit question

[msvx95]

I almost installed my new resistor, but ran out of time this week. The new resistor I have measures 12.7 ohms....I didn't check my current on the car..but I'm seeing the intermittent code blinks....sometimes it happens on startup, sometimes it doesn't....I just don't understand it.

[Budfreak]

Originally Posted by msvx95

I almost installed my new resistor, but ran out of time this week. The new resistor I have measures 12.7 ohms....I didn't check my current on the car..but I'm seeing the intermittent code blinks....sometimes it happens on startup, sometimes it doesn't....I just don't understand it.

Yes, it's been driving me nuts now for 2 weeks. I wrote an email to smallcar with my findings and I'm waiting to hear from them. I was hoping somebody on here had found a fix, But I guess not from the looks of it.

[msvx95]

Let me know if you get a reply from them...If it's a cheap part fix through them I'd like to get the replacement part before I take things apart and have to do it twice.

[Budfreak]

Originally Posted by msvx95

Let me know if you get a reply from them...If it's a cheap part fix through them I'd like to get the replacement part before I take things apart and have to do it twice.

I got a reply and he told me to unhook it. I guess he assumes I didn't already try this and that I already know it's works fine with it unhooked. I'm waiting to hear from him again.

[oab_au]

Originally Posted by Budfreak

Yes, it's been driving me nuts now for 2 weeks. I wrote an email to smallcar with my findings and I'm waiting to hear from them. I was hoping somebody on here had found a fix, But I guess not from the looks of it.

I am not too sure how the kit ended up being wired. The theory is to add to the dropping resistors resistance, to reduce the voltage across the A solenoid, to increase the line pressure.

The way I would guess it would work is. When the vacuum drops it adds the 670 Ohm resistor in series with the dropping resistor, and the A solenoid.This reduces the A solenoids signal.

When the vacuum is high, the switch connects the A solenoid directly to the dropping resistor, bypassing the 670 Ohm resistor.

If it is connected so that the dropping resistor is open circuited when it operates is will bring on the light.

Harvey.

[Budfreak]

Originally Posted by oab_au

I am not too sure how the kit ended up being wired. The theory is to add to the dropping resistors resistance, to reduce the voltage across the A solenoid, to increase the line pressure.

The way I would guess it would work is. When the vacuum drops it adds the 670 Ohm resistor in series with the dropping resistor, and the A solenoid.This reduces the A solenoids signal.

When the vacuum is high, the switch connects the A solenoid directly to the dropping resistor, bypassing the 670 Ohm resistor.

If it is connected so that the dropping resistor is open circuited when it operates is will bring on the light.

Harvey.

That's how I understand it to work, But it seems mine works opposite of that. It has the high OHMs when there is vacuum and low OHMS without vacuum. WTF

[Earthworm]

The kit should be wired in series with the stock resistor. If it's wired in parallel it will do just this. Do you know what your actual ohm readings are?

[Budfreak]

Originally Posted by Earthworm

The kit should be wired in series with the stock resistor. If it's wired in parallel it will do just this. Do you know what your actual ohm readings are?

I have it wired in series and I've tried both wires. I have 2 different resistors I've tried, One being stock and reading 12.5 OHMS, And the other is homemade and reads 16 OHMS. When there is NO vacuum on the shift kit it reads 1.1 OHMS, And WITH vacuum it reads 672 OHMS which is opposite of what I think it should be.

[oab_au]

Originally Posted by Budfreak

That's how I understand it to work, But it seems mine works opposite of that. It has the high OHMs when there is vacuum and low OHMS without vacuum. WTF

OK lets look at the three connections that are on the switch. There are three pins on the switch, two have a 670 Ohm resistor soldered across them.
Now when the switch is in the switched condition, that is high vacuum, light throttle, the switch will connect the dropping resistor to the A solenoid.

When the vacuum is low, full throttle, the 670 Ohm is connected in series with the dropping resistor, to increase line pressure.



You may have the dropping resistor connected to the wrong end of the 670 Ohm resistor.

Harvey.

[Budfreak]

Originally Posted by oab_au

OK lets look at the three connections that are on the switch. There are three pins on the switch, two have a 670 Ohm resistor soldered across them.
Now when the switch is in the switched condition, that is high vacuum, light throttle, the switch will connect the dropping resistor to the A solenoid.

When the vacuum is low, full throttle, the 670 Ohm is connected in series with the dropping resistor, to increase line pressure.



You may have the dropping resistor connected to the wrong end of the 670 Ohm resistor.

Harvey.

I have only 2 connections on my switch and they have the resistor soldered between them. I've tried swapping the ends of the cut wires on the shift kit and had no luck with that either. Can It be tested on my OHM meter backwards?? Because like I said, I have the high resistance WITH vacuum and the low resistance WITHOUT vacuum, Which is backwards.

BTW, I can see where the third connection used to be on the shift kit, But I touched my lead to the little bit that was sticking out and it did nothing at all as far as OHM readings.

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by oab_au

I am not too sure how the kit ended up being wired. The theory is to add to the dropping resistors resistance, to reduce the voltage across the A solenoid, to increase the line pressure.

The way I would guess it would work is. When the vacuum drops it adds the 670 Ohm resistor in series with the dropping resistor, and the A solenoid.This reduces the A solenoids signal.

When the vacuum is high, the switch connects the A solenoid directly to the dropping resistor, bypassing the 670 Ohm resistor.

If it is connected so that the dropping resistor is open circuited when it operates is will bring on the light.

Harvey.

Correct Harvey. This is how it was finally worked out after I put in a great deal of time correcting what you had first proposed.

The annoying thing is that as I have already posted in this thread. We are again having to get involved and spend time, due to the negligence of the supplier.

Cheers, Trevor

[Budfreak]

Originally Posted by Trevor

Correct Harvey. This is how it was finally worked out after I put in a great deal of time correcting what you had first proposed.

The annoying thing is that as I have already posted in this thread. We are again having to get involved and spend time, due to the negligence of the supplier.

Cheers, Trevor

So what is the exact problem Trevor? Is it something internal with the switch or what? I want to get this thing working in the next few weeks before track day. Thanks for all the input so far guys, It's appreciated.

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by Budfreak

I have only 2 connections on my switch and they have the resistor soldered between them. I've tried swapping the ends of the cut wires on the shift kit and had no luck with that either. Can It be tested on my OHM meter backwards?? Because like I said, I have the high resistance WITH vacuum and the low resistance WITHOUT vacuum, Which is backwards.

BTW, I can see where the third connection used to be on the shift kit, But I touched my lead to the little bit that was sticking out and it did nothing at all as far as OHM readings.

Set set the pressure/vaccum switch to its most sensitive setting and suck on it while using your ohm meter to detect the moving contact, the normally closed and the normally open. With these connections identified you should be able to wire things as per the diagram Harvey has kindly provided.

When things were finalized with the supplier, I understood the kit was to be delivered with the included resistor fitted in place across the N/O and N/C switch terminals. If this is how you received it you are some way down the track towards sorting things out.

Best of luck, Trevor.

[Budfreak]

Originally Posted by Trevor

Set set the pressure/vaccum switch to its most sensitive setting and suck on it while using your ohm meter to detect the moving contact, the normally closed and the normally open. With these connections identified you should be able to wire things as per the diagram Harvey has kindly provided.

When things were finalized with the supplier, I understood the kit was to be delivered with the included resistor fitted in place across the N/O and N/C switch terminals. If this is how you received it you are some way down the track towards sorting things out.

Best of luck, Trevor.

Well, Like I said, Mine has two terminals on it and they are joined by a resistor. Sucking on it is how I checked the resistance to begin with and like I said, It was reading backwards with the high OHMs with vacuum and the low OHMs without. Is the most sensitive setting all the way in or out?

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by Budfreak

So what is the exact problem Trevor? Is it something internal with the switch or what? I want to get this thing working in the next few weeks before track day. Thanks for all the input so far guys, It's appreciated.

We were posting simultaneously, If you require any further info, shout.