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  #1  
Old 05-18-2006, 11:19 PM
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nextse7en nextse7en is offline
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Location: Eugene, OR
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Tranny swap underway, need some tips. (In real time, if possible)

I'm swapping in a 4.44, I've decided that while I'm at it, I'll install phonelic (sp?) spacers, replace my knock sensors and my PCV valve.

I've got the intake off, (all of the hoses cracked like glass while I was removing it)

Getting to the tranny bolts is a hell of a lot easier with the plenum off. But I'm worried about getting the plenum back on correctly, could someone point me to a diagram?

Any tricks on getting the lower starter bolt out from the top, or should I just wait until I've dissasembled the exaust system and remove it from the bottom?

Can anyone think of any time or finger saving sage like wisdom while doing this work?


Also, is there anything else I should replace while I'm at it?


Thanks so much.
- Patrick.
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Patrick

1995 Ebony Pearl. S.N. 0001 "Araby"

JDM Power Mode Switch, Integrated GPS/Video Player
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1992 Teal - Sold to Mysvxrocks
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Last edited by nextse7en; 05-20-2006 at 04:51 PM.
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  #2  
Old 05-19-2006, 12:06 AM
19svx94 19svx94 is offline
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hello, i simply put a rachet on the lower starter nut and it came off fine, some penetrating lube will be helpful in this swap, and i had no problem doing my swap simply with the throttle body off, but putting the intake manifold back on is preety easy and self explanitory, if you have access to an engine hoist i would use that to put the tranny back in, do this by putting a jack under the back of the tranny and use the pitch stopper bolt holes on the top of the bell housing to mount a engine hoist, the trans should go right in
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  #3  
Old 05-19-2006, 08:10 AM
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svxfiles svxfiles is offline
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Patrick,
You should remove the ring at the flex plate to check it for cracks.
You should read the how to several times before starting.
You should check my locker.
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www.svxfiles.com
The first SuperCharged SVX,
the first 4.44 gears,
the first equal length headers,
the first phenolic spacers,
the first Class Glass fiberglass hood,
the first with 4, 4.44s in his driveway


Fiberglass Hood thread
My locker
4.44 Swap link
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  #4  
Old 05-19-2006, 08:47 AM
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Hocrest Hocrest is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nextse7en
Any tricks on getting the lower starter bolt out from the top...
Your hands are your eyes...


Also, on this last swap, I found the best way to fully seat the TC into the trans is to put it in till it stops, then spin it several rotations clockwise, then turn it slightly counter-clockwise while gently lifting up and pushing in.
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  #5  
Old 05-20-2006, 04:53 PM
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nextse7en nextse7en is offline
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I've got the rear diff halfway out, what is the procedure for removing the driveshaft? Can I pull the diff and shaft out as one unit?

Also, do I have to unhook anything to pull the rear axles away from the rear diff, or should I just pry one off and pull the other?


Thanks.

Patrick
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Patrick

1995 Ebony Pearl. S.N. 0001 "Araby"

JDM Power Mode Switch, Integrated GPS/Video Player
6Xk Miles.

1992 Teal - Sold to Mysvxrocks
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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  #6  
Old 05-21-2006, 12:16 AM
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nextse7en nextse7en is offline
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Bump 678910
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Patrick

1995 Ebony Pearl. S.N. 0001 "Araby"

JDM Power Mode Switch, Integrated GPS/Video Player
6Xk Miles.

1992 Teal - Sold to Mysvxrocks
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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  #7  
Old 05-21-2006, 10:38 PM
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svxfiles svxfiles is offline
There's a storm coming.
 
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Location: Wiley Ford WV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nextse7en
I've got the rear diff halfway out, what is the procedure for removing the driveshaft? Can I pull the diff and shaft out as one unit?

Also, do I have to unhook anything to pull the rear axles away from the rear diff, or should I just pry one off and pull the other?


Thanks.

Patrick
You really should pull the driveshaft separately from the rear diff.
The more lighter packages you have to handle, the less likely you have of losing a finger.
This is from the link in my locker.
"
You can slide the rear end away from the axles, one at a time.
Watch for very thin wire C clips on the axles. With the first axle, you might need to pry lightly on the axle flange to get it started. On the second one, you can use the rear end like a slide hammer to remove the rear from the axle."
__________________
www.svxfiles.com
The first SuperCharged SVX,
the first 4.44 gears,
the first equal length headers,
the first phenolic spacers,
the first Class Glass fiberglass hood,
the first with 4, 4.44s in his driveway


Fiberglass Hood thread
My locker
4.44 Swap link

Last edited by svxfiles; 05-21-2006 at 10:41 PM.
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  #8  
Old 05-22-2006, 01:24 PM
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Earthworm Earthworm is offline
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I just did this and found that I was missing (I hope it's not in the diff) a c-clip on one of the axles.

The driveshaft easily unbolts from the rear diff using 4 bolts/nuts.
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  #9  
Old 05-22-2006, 01:36 PM
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svxfiles svxfiles is offline
There's a storm coming.
 
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Location: Wiley Ford WV
Posts: 8,650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Earthworm
I just did this and found that I was missing (I hope it's not in the diff) a c-clip on one of the axles.

The driveshaft easily unbolts from the rear diff using 4 bolts/nuts.
If the C-clip is not on the axle, it is usually(safely) in the rear diff, in the groove, waiting for the axle to be inserted.
If you reach into the splined carrier, with a light and a magnet, hopefully you can see if it is in the correct position.
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www.svxfiles.com
The first SuperCharged SVX,
the first 4.44 gears,
the first equal length headers,
the first phenolic spacers,
the first Class Glass fiberglass hood,
the first with 4, 4.44s in his driveway


Fiberglass Hood thread
My locker
4.44 Swap link
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  #10  
Old 05-22-2006, 03:57 PM
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Earthworm Earthworm is offline
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I won't know now. I've already put everything back together.
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