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#16
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UPDATE!
Allright Gentlemen,
here's how I left the car today when dailight decided to go take a walk where I come from (the other side of the world)... Another pic to prove that everything's pretty much unbolted: Now, the following two pictures were taken to show you were I am stuck. First problem - How do I get those two lines going to my assembly out of the way? Right now they are the only two things left before I can take the whole assembly out of the car: Second problem - I am sorry for my ignorance but my english is not perfect and I have an extremely hard time understanding certain technical terms. I AM trying to follow THIS PDF guide step by step, however I am having a hard time understanding what is what. For example, where's the 'HUB'? What's the 'Knuckle'? How about the Lower Arm? Do I have to remove that drum-assembly with the lug-nuts sticking out of it? It is loose, I tried pulling it out but it won't come apart. What do I exactly need to bring to the machine shop? Well... that's where I am at. As usual, any advice will be immensely appreciated! As you can see I am taking some good pics of the whole process, and I am planning on making a detailed guide for non-experts like me, but I need some tips. Regards, Walter
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1995 SVX Green - now 5spd! ..::|SOLD|::.. 1991 Talon TSi AWD (~400 whp pump gas) 1993 Civic CX Hatch (daily driver) 1999 Ducati 748S (built 996 engine) Last edited by Treppiede; 11-04-2004 at 06:02 PM. |
#17
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The hub is the part the lug studs are pressed through. The knuckle is the part that the hub and bearings are pressed into, and is bolted to the strut (two large bolts.) The lower arms are the two long metal parts that bolt at the bottom of the knuckle and run toward the center of the car. The part you are trying to remove is the ABS sensor. They commonly corrode in their mounting hole and can be extremely difficult to remove. They do not take make abuse so be careful (about $112 if you break it.) Another approach would be to follow the lead to its other end and disconnecting the wire at its connector. The heavier cable is for your parking brake and will probably require dismantling the parking brake shoes and hardware in order to access it. Once at that point just slip a 13mm box wrench over the cable and it will push the clips together enough to allow wiggling the cable from the backing plate (what the shoes ride on.) Then just take the whole mess (knuckle, hub and bearings/seals) to the machine shop.
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ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician w/L1. ASE Certified Master Medium/Heavy Truck Technician. Certified EVT (Emergency Vehicle Technician) |
#18
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thanks for the video. i now know i just have loud tires.
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Kenneth 1997 Subaru SVX LSi "Svetlana" #185 of 640 - 09/1996 - Polo Green Pearl - 34k miles 1992 Subaru SVX LS-L "Everett" #8738 - 01/1992 - Ebony Pearl - 139k miles - 5MT shifty - Sold 07/31/2011 1992 Subaru SVX LS-L "Sven" #1599 - 05/1991 - Claret - 168k miles - Traded 05/11/2005 2023 Subaru Crosstrek Limited CVT - Crystal White Pearl - 2.8k miles 2021 Subaru Forester 2.5i Limited CVT - Horizon Blue Pearl - 17k miles 2023 Volkswagen Jetta S 6MT - Pure White - 2.6k miles 2020 Hyundai Ioniq Limited EV - Ceramic White - 30k miles |
#19
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Quote:
Walter PS= BTW, be careful with that assumption. At the beginning I too thought I was dealing with bad tires, but it got to that level in a matter of weeks. I don't wish that to you, but worst case scenario you'll have a nice guide if it turns out being your bearings.
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1995 SVX Green - now 5spd! ..::|SOLD|::.. 1991 Talon TSi AWD (~400 whp pump gas) 1993 Civic CX Hatch (daily driver) 1999 Ducati 748S (built 996 engine) Last edited by Treppiede; 11-04-2004 at 11:13 PM. |
#20
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Quote:
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Kenneth 1997 Subaru SVX LSi "Svetlana" #185 of 640 - 09/1996 - Polo Green Pearl - 34k miles 1992 Subaru SVX LS-L "Everett" #8738 - 01/1992 - Ebony Pearl - 139k miles - 5MT shifty - Sold 07/31/2011 1992 Subaru SVX LS-L "Sven" #1599 - 05/1991 - Claret - 168k miles - Traded 05/11/2005 2023 Subaru Crosstrek Limited CVT - Crystal White Pearl - 2.8k miles 2021 Subaru Forester 2.5i Limited CVT - Horizon Blue Pearl - 17k miles 2023 Volkswagen Jetta S 6MT - Pure White - 2.6k miles 2020 Hyundai Ioniq Limited EV - Ceramic White - 30k miles |
#21
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Quote:
__________________
Kenneth 1997 Subaru SVX LSi "Svetlana" #185 of 640 - 09/1996 - Polo Green Pearl - 34k miles 1992 Subaru SVX LS-L "Everett" #8738 - 01/1992 - Ebony Pearl - 139k miles - 5MT shifty - Sold 07/31/2011 1992 Subaru SVX LS-L "Sven" #1599 - 05/1991 - Claret - 168k miles - Traded 05/11/2005 2023 Subaru Crosstrek Limited CVT - Crystal White Pearl - 2.8k miles 2021 Subaru Forester 2.5i Limited CVT - Horizon Blue Pearl - 17k miles 2023 Volkswagen Jetta S 6MT - Pure White - 2.6k miles 2020 Hyundai Ioniq Limited EV - Ceramic White - 30k miles |
#22
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thanks for trying to make the video and write a how-to w/ pics on replacing rear wheel bearings.
i was once at mike's sold-svx listening to his bad bearing noise. his one was loud. yours seems to be louder. i know mine hasn't been out. *fingers crossed* lucky me, for more than 3 yrs+++, still as quiet. recently, there's some noise on certain speed from the back, i'm quite positive it's the rear tires(maybe balancing/alignment stuff)(one of the rear tires got nailed and often on low pressure). the noise won't go increasing as i speed up from 0-70. at 90-100, it becomes quieter ... probably of the speed or some minor windnoise. good luck on replacing your bearings...
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-SSSVX 92 LS-L TEAL since Aug '01 92 LS-L YELLOW since Mar '05 |
#23
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abs sensor removal
When I did my rear wheel bearings, I found that I was able to easily remove the ABS sensor by using a low angle chisel to wedge (with a sharp edge) between the ABS sensor mounting tab and the hub backing plate. Apply some liquid wrench/PB blaster before starting, then just tap the chisel in there lightly with a hammer bit by bit from several different sides of the ABS sensor. Got mine out in about 3 minutes this way.
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Mychailo :: 2006 Silver Mitsubishi Evolution 9, E85, 34 psi peak, 425wtq/505whp DJ :: 1995 Laguna Blue SVX L AWD 5MT (sold) Visit my locker SVX Mods: ND iridium spark plugs, Impreza RS fpr, afr tuned to 13.2:1 using a custom MAF bypass, custom exhaust, WRX 5MT w/ STi RA 1st-4th gear & stock WRX 5th gear, Exedy 13 lb flywheel & Sport Clutch, STi Group N tranny & engine mounts, urethane spacers in rear subframe, rear diff mounts, and pitch stopper, SVX Sport Strut Springs (185f/150r), custom 19 mm rear swaybar, urethane swaybar mounts, Rota Torque 17x8", 225/45-17 Proxes 4 tires, Axxis Deluxe Plus organic brake pads. |
#24
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UPDATE #2!
Quote:
Quote:
Well, I will keep you updated. In the mean time, please enjoy a new clip I made with my neighbour that shows his "technique" to repack bearings without using any tool: as usual, please Right Click - Save As... Regards, Walter
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1995 SVX Green - now 5spd! ..::|SOLD|::.. 1991 Talon TSi AWD (~400 whp pump gas) 1993 Civic CX Hatch (daily driver) 1999 Ducati 748S (built 996 engine) |
#25
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<<In the mean time, please enjoy a new clip I made with my neighbour that shows his "technique" to repack bearings without using any tool: >>
thats the proper way to pack bearings if you don't have a bearing packer. nice to see you made a movie to help people out. |
#26
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It appears to be the anti-roll bar, otherwise, incorrectly and colloquially, referred to as the sway bar.
Forgot to forewarn you that every (at least to my experience) aftermarket parts book will list the incorrect seals. Best bet: pick them up at the Subaru dealer or use the numbers on the old seals to cross-reference, if possible.
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ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician w/L1. ASE Certified Master Medium/Heavy Truck Technician. Certified EVT (Emergency Vehicle Technician) |
#27
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UPDATE #3!
Gentlemen, the seals finally came in ($65 for all four from Satan ) and the bearings are installed. Everything seems ready to be reinstalled at last!
I was trying to follow the torque specs posted in this thread (thanks Lanciat!): Code:
for rear suspension: in Ft Lbs (N m) Axle Nut .......................................... 123-152 (167-206) Crossmember Support Bolt ............. 33-54 (44-74) Crossmember-To-Body Bolt ............. 94-116 (127-157) Differential-To-Crossmember Bolt.... 94-116 (127-157) Lateral Link Inner Bolt ..................................... 61-83 (83-113) Outer Bolt .................................... 72-101 (98-137) Rear Stabilizer Link Nut .................... 10-19 (14-25) Strut Flange Bolt .............................. 98-127 (132-172) Strut Mount Nut ............................... 10-17 (14-24) Strut Piston Rod Lock Nut ................ 36-51 (49-69) Trailing Link Bolt .............................. 101-130 (137-177) Trailing Link Bushing Bolt ................. 80-101 (108-137) Once again, thanks the help, we are 60% done. Walter
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1995 SVX Green - now 5spd! ..::|SOLD|::.. 1991 Talon TSi AWD (~400 whp pump gas) 1993 Civic CX Hatch (daily driver) 1999 Ducati 748S (built 996 engine) |
#28
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Re: UPDATE #3!
Quote:
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ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician w/L1. ASE Certified Master Medium/Heavy Truck Technician. Certified EVT (Emergency Vehicle Technician) Last edited by Beav; 11-09-2004 at 08:00 PM. |
#29
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I was hoping for you to see this thread tonight Beav, and thankfully you didn't miss it. I inverted all the black pics with Photoshop so that I could print them and write with a red marker all the torque specs next to the bolts you pointed out. I should now have a nice 'manual' with all the information I need for tomorrow's big job.
Since I am 'recycling' all the hardware, I am aware I should be torquing to the lowest number. I however am terrified with the thought of some bolt getting loose and ruining my life. Since the two torque values are often pretty far from each other (30 to 50% increase for new hardware) I am tempted to torque somewhat halfway between the two values, for instance "Rear Stabilizer Link Nut .................... 10-19 = 15..." Am I being paranoid? Should I just follow the chart and not think about loosening parts? Quote:
Walter
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1995 SVX Green - now 5spd! ..::|SOLD|::.. 1991 Talon TSi AWD (~400 whp pump gas) 1993 Civic CX Hatch (daily driver) 1999 Ducati 748S (built 996 engine) |
#30
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I'd rather you use your bare fingers than one of those $12 torque wrenches. I have personal experience to back me up. And no, I didn't buy it, the shop I was working for did and everyone was sorry afterwards.
If you're concerned about fasteners loosening either slightly stake the nuts before assembly or use loc-tite.
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ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician w/L1. ASE Certified Master Medium/Heavy Truck Technician. Certified EVT (Emergency Vehicle Technician) |
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