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  #16  
Old 11-04-2004, 05:59 PM
Treppiede Treppiede is offline
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UPDATE!

Allright Gentlemen,
here's how I left the car today when dailight decided to go take a walk where I come from (the other side of the world)...



Another pic to prove that everything's pretty much unbolted:



Now, the following two pictures were taken to show you were I am stuck.

First problem - How do I get those two lines going to my assembly out of the way?
Right now they are the only two things left before I can take the whole assembly out of the car:


Second problem - I am sorry for my ignorance but my english is not perfect and I have an extremely hard time understanding certain technical terms. I AM trying to follow THIS PDF guide step by step, however I am having a hard time understanding what is what. For example, where's the 'HUB'? What's the 'Knuckle'? How about the Lower Arm? Do I have to remove that drum-assembly with the lug-nuts sticking out of it? It is loose, I tried pulling it out but it won't come apart. What do I exactly need to bring to the machine shop?





Well... that's where I am at. As usual, any advice will be immensely appreciated! As you can see I am taking some good pics of the whole process, and I am planning on making a detailed guide for non-experts like me, but I need some tips.

Regards,

Walter
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1995 SVX Green - now 5spd! ..::|SOLD|::..
1991 Talon TSi AWD (~400 whp pump gas)
1993 Civic CX Hatch (daily driver)
1999 Ducati 748S (built 996 engine)

Last edited by Treppiede; 11-04-2004 at 06:02 PM.
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  #17  
Old 11-04-2004, 07:54 PM
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Beav Beav is offline
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The hub is the part the lug studs are pressed through. The knuckle is the part that the hub and bearings are pressed into, and is bolted to the strut (two large bolts.) The lower arms are the two long metal parts that bolt at the bottom of the knuckle and run toward the center of the car. The part you are trying to remove is the ABS sensor. They commonly corrode in their mounting hole and can be extremely difficult to remove. They do not take make abuse so be careful (about $112 if you break it.) Another approach would be to follow the lead to its other end and disconnecting the wire at its connector. The heavier cable is for your parking brake and will probably require dismantling the parking brake shoes and hardware in order to access it. Once at that point just slip a 13mm box wrench over the cable and it will push the clips together enough to allow wiggling the cable from the backing plate (what the shoes ride on.) Then just take the whole mess (knuckle, hub and bearings/seals) to the machine shop.
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  #18  
Old 11-04-2004, 10:56 PM
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shelfy shelfy is offline
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thanks for the video. i now know i just have loud tires.
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1997 Subaru SVX LSi "Svetlana" #185 of 640 - 09/1996 - Polo Green Pearl - 34k miles

1992 Subaru SVX LS-L "Everett" #8738 - 01/1992 - Ebony Pearl - 139k miles - 5MT shifty - Sold 07/31/2011

1992 Subaru SVX LS-L "Sven" #1599 - 05/1991 - Claret - 168k miles - Traded 05/11/2005


2023 Subaru Crosstrek Limited CVT - Crystal White Pearl - 2.8k miles
2021 Subaru Forester 2.5i Limited CVT - Horizon Blue Pearl - 17k miles
2023 Volkswagen Jetta S 6MT - Pure White - 2.6k miles
2020 Hyundai Ioniq Limited EV - Ceramic White - 30k miles
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  #19  
Old 11-04-2004, 11:10 PM
Treppiede Treppiede is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by shelfy
thanks for the video. i now know i just have loud tires.
Eheheh... I hope you don't mind if I linked a screenshot of your comments on mIRC on my Signature. It was too funny.

Walter

PS= BTW, be careful with that assumption. At the beginning I too thought I was dealing with bad tires, but it got to that level in a matter of weeks. I don't wish that to you, but worst case scenario you'll have a nice guide if it turns out being your bearings.
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1995 SVX Green - now 5spd! ..::|SOLD|::..
1991 Talon TSi AWD (~400 whp pump gas)
1993 Civic CX Hatch (daily driver)
1999 Ducati 748S (built 996 engine)

Last edited by Treppiede; 11-04-2004 at 11:13 PM.
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  #20  
Old 11-04-2004, 11:17 PM
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shelfy shelfy is offline
I have a problem. :(
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by Treppiede
Eheheh... I hope you don't mind if I linked a screenshot of your comments on mIRC on my Signature. It was too funny.
not at all.
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Kenneth

1997 Subaru SVX LSi "Svetlana" #185 of 640 - 09/1996 - Polo Green Pearl - 34k miles

1992 Subaru SVX LS-L "Everett" #8738 - 01/1992 - Ebony Pearl - 139k miles - 5MT shifty - Sold 07/31/2011

1992 Subaru SVX LS-L "Sven" #1599 - 05/1991 - Claret - 168k miles - Traded 05/11/2005


2023 Subaru Crosstrek Limited CVT - Crystal White Pearl - 2.8k miles
2021 Subaru Forester 2.5i Limited CVT - Horizon Blue Pearl - 17k miles
2023 Volkswagen Jetta S 6MT - Pure White - 2.6k miles
2020 Hyundai Ioniq Limited EV - Ceramic White - 30k miles
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  #21  
Old 11-04-2004, 11:19 PM
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shelfy shelfy is offline
I have a problem. :(
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by Treppiede
BTW, be careful with that assumption. At the beginning I too thought I was dealing with bad tires, but it got to that level in a matter of weeks. I don't wish that to you, but worst case scenario you'll have a nice guide if it turns out being your bearings.
my bad tires noise has been going on for years and hasn't got any worse. actually it improved greatly when i put my snow tires on last weekend.
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Kenneth

1997 Subaru SVX LSi "Svetlana" #185 of 640 - 09/1996 - Polo Green Pearl - 34k miles

1992 Subaru SVX LS-L "Everett" #8738 - 01/1992 - Ebony Pearl - 139k miles - 5MT shifty - Sold 07/31/2011

1992 Subaru SVX LS-L "Sven" #1599 - 05/1991 - Claret - 168k miles - Traded 05/11/2005


2023 Subaru Crosstrek Limited CVT - Crystal White Pearl - 2.8k miles
2021 Subaru Forester 2.5i Limited CVT - Horizon Blue Pearl - 17k miles
2023 Volkswagen Jetta S 6MT - Pure White - 2.6k miles
2020 Hyundai Ioniq Limited EV - Ceramic White - 30k miles
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  #22  
Old 11-04-2004, 11:24 PM
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SSSVX SSSVX is offline
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thanks for trying to make the video and write a how-to w/ pics on replacing rear wheel bearings.

i was once at mike's sold-svx listening to his bad bearing noise. his one was loud. yours seems to be louder.

i know mine hasn't been out. *fingers crossed* lucky me, for more than 3 yrs+++, still as quiet. recently, there's some noise on certain speed from the back, i'm quite positive it's the rear tires(maybe balancing/alignment stuff)(one of the rear tires got nailed and often on low pressure). the noise won't go increasing as i speed up from 0-70. at 90-100, it becomes quieter ... probably of the speed or some minor windnoise.

good luck on replacing your bearings...
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  #23  
Old 11-05-2004, 09:46 AM
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mbtoloczko mbtoloczko is offline
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abs sensor removal

When I did my rear wheel bearings, I found that I was able to easily remove the ABS sensor by using a low angle chisel to wedge (with a sharp edge) between the ABS sensor mounting tab and the hub backing plate. Apply some liquid wrench/PB blaster before starting, then just tap the chisel in there lightly with a hammer bit by bit from several different sides of the ABS sensor. Got mine out in about 3 minutes this way.
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  #24  
Old 11-05-2004, 05:13 PM
Treppiede Treppiede is offline
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UPDATE #2!

Quote:
Originally posted by mbtoloczko
Got mine out in about 3 minutes this way.
Well, once I removed the Drum-assembly I was able to push out by hand both ABS sensors with ease. I guess I got lucky on this one. Thanks for the tip though.

Quote:
Originally posted by Beav
Then just take the whole mess (knuckle, hub and bearings/seals) to the machine shop.
Dear Beav, thanks for the great deal of info. I did take the whole mess to the machine shop as instructed but when I went to pick them up I got some bad news. Apparently I was given the wrong seals from the autoparts store. The seals I had wouldn't fit properly. The worst thing is that the Machine Shop is closed on weekends so I will be down until monday. I will pass by the autoparts store tomorrow morning and get the right ones. I have one quick question, what is that small arm that's hanging on the right side of the first pic at the top of this page?

Well, I will keep you updated. In the mean time, please enjoy a new clip I made with my neighbour that shows his "technique" to repack bearings without using any tool: as usual, please Right Click - Save As...

Regards,

Walter
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1995 SVX Green - now 5spd! ..::|SOLD|::..
1991 Talon TSi AWD (~400 whp pump gas)
1993 Civic CX Hatch (daily driver)
1999 Ducati 748S (built 996 engine)
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  #25  
Old 11-05-2004, 05:40 PM
svxpert svxpert is offline
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<<In the mean time, please enjoy a new clip I made with my neighbour that shows his "technique" to repack bearings without using any tool: >>

thats the proper way to pack bearings if you don't have a bearing packer. nice to see you made a movie to help people out.
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  #26  
Old 11-05-2004, 05:42 PM
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Beav Beav is offline
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It appears to be the anti-roll bar, otherwise, incorrectly and colloquially, referred to as the sway bar.

Forgot to forewarn you that every (at least to my experience) aftermarket parts book will list the incorrect seals. Best bet: pick them up at the Subaru dealer or use the numbers on the old seals to cross-reference, if possible.
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  #27  
Old 11-09-2004, 07:27 PM
Treppiede Treppiede is offline
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UPDATE #3!

Gentlemen, the seals finally came in ($65 for all four from Satan ) and the bearings are installed. Everything seems ready to be reinstalled at last!

I was trying to follow the torque specs posted in this thread (thanks Lanciat!):
Code:
for rear suspension: in Ft Lbs (N m)
Axle Nut .......................................... 123-152 (167-206)
Crossmember Support Bolt ............. 33-54 (44-74)
Crossmember-To-Body Bolt ............. 94-116 (127-157)
Differential-To-Crossmember Bolt.... 94-116 (127-157)
Lateral Link
Inner Bolt ..................................... 61-83 (83-113)
Outer Bolt .................................... 72-101 (98-137)
Rear Stabilizer Link Nut .................... 10-19 (14-25)
Strut Flange Bolt .............................. 98-127 (132-172)
Strut Mount Nut ............................... 10-17 (14-24)
Strut Piston Rod Lock Nut ................ 36-51 (49-69)
Trailing Link Bolt .............................. 101-130 (137-177)
Trailing Link Bushing Bolt ................. 80-101 (108-137)
However as usual I have a hard time understanding what is what, so I guess if somebody could help me locate in my pictures the parts mentioned in the above chart it would be much appreciated. Also, the first number is torque when re-using the same hardware, and the second number is when using new bolts and nuts, right? What about the values in parenthesis?

Once again, thanks the help, we are 60% done.

Walter
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1995 SVX Green - now 5spd! ..::|SOLD|::..
1991 Talon TSi AWD (~400 whp pump gas)
1993 Civic CX Hatch (daily driver)
1999 Ducati 748S (built 996 engine)
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  #28  
Old 11-09-2004, 07:57 PM
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Beav Beav is offline
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Re: UPDATE #3!

Quote:
Originally posted by Treppiede


Axle Nut .......................................... 123-152 BIG NUT IN MIDDLE OF HUB

REFERRING TO: http://www.subaruparts.com/diag/?mod...category=201-1

Lateral Link
Inner Bolt ..................................... 61-83 #20578
Outer Bolt .................................... 72-101 #20578D

Rear Stabilizer Link Nut .................... 10-19 #20470

Strut Flange Bolt .............................. 98-127 #20578H @ http://www.subaruparts.com/diag/?mod...category=211-1

Trailing Link Bolt .............................. 101-130 #M000109
Trailing Link Bushing Bolt ................. 80-101 #20288
(can't be certain of their terminology on these last two. typically the larger diameter bolt gets more torque, but if the same diameter the shorter bolt gets more torque. (longer bolt may stretch to breaking point if torqued too high.) Notice that they call 20252 a trailing link but at 20521 they call it a lateral link. (it is a trailing link)

CLARITY: Lateral means side-to-side, trailing means fore and aft.


Also, the first number is torque when re-using the same hardware, and the second number is when using new bolts and nuts, right? YES

What about the values in parenthesis? NEWTON METERS, for those that bought the really cheap foreign tools that didn't put ft.lbs on the scale. *wink*

Once again, thanks the help, we are 60% done.

Walter
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Last edited by Beav; 11-09-2004 at 08:00 PM.
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  #29  
Old 11-09-2004, 09:14 PM
Treppiede Treppiede is offline
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I was hoping for you to see this thread tonight Beav, and thankfully you didn't miss it. I inverted all the black pics with Photoshop so that I could print them and write with a red marker all the torque specs next to the bolts you pointed out. I should now have a nice 'manual' with all the information I need for tomorrow's big job.

Since I am 'recycling' all the hardware, I am aware I should be torquing to the lowest number. I however am terrified with the thought of some bolt getting loose and ruining my life. Since the two torque values are often pretty far from each other (30 to 50% increase for new hardware) I am tempted to torque somewhat halfway between the two values, for instance "Rear Stabilizer Link Nut .................... 10-19 = 15..." Am I being paranoid? Should I just follow the chart and not think about loosening parts?

Quote:
for those that bought the really cheap foreign tools that didn't put ft.lbs on the scale. *wink*
Hey, my torque wrench is not that bad! Paid 11 bucks for it (on Sale) but it looks like the real deal!



Walter
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1995 SVX Green - now 5spd! ..::|SOLD|::..
1991 Talon TSi AWD (~400 whp pump gas)
1993 Civic CX Hatch (daily driver)
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  #30  
Old 11-10-2004, 12:16 AM
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Beav Beav is offline
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I'd rather you use your bare fingers than one of those $12 torque wrenches. I have personal experience to back me up. And no, I didn't buy it, the shop I was working for did and everyone was sorry afterwards.

If you're concerned about fasteners loosening either slightly stake the nuts before assembly or use loc-tite.
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