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  #1  
Old 11-06-2007, 09:39 AM
Szalkerous Szalkerous is offline
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Brake flex hose nut???

Hey all...

I'm in final stages of SVX restoration, and in the process of upgrading to the stainless steel flex lines, and I have one corner that has a really weather beaten sealing nut on the hard line / flex line connect. We cracked all the rest with a regular open end 10mm wrench, but this one is on there and feels like it may round right off, especially with the open end. I went out and bought one of the 5 point "line wrenches" (at least that's what I called them... auto store had a more official name)..... my question is... what's the risk run by trying to get this off? (Meaning, if I total the nut even with the correct line wrench, what's the scope of replacement? Does the hard line run all the way to the engine bay, or is there disconnects along the way to make the job easier?) Also, given that it's a brake line, is it possible to use WD-40, liquid wrench, PB, etc. on it?

Any recommendations? I'm driving on three SS and one rubber flex line. That spells trouble in my head. I really want to get that off. I have a new caliper ready to go for that side too. SO CLOSE TO SUBY TIME AGAIN!

Thanks in advance for advice!!

-Szalk
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  #2  
Old 11-06-2007, 10:00 AM
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Hocrest Hocrest is offline
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Use lots of PB, a few applications over a day or so.

Which corner?
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Old 11-06-2007, 10:29 AM
Szalkerous Szalkerous is offline
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This affects the driver's side rear caliper.

-Sz
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Old 11-06-2007, 01:24 PM
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kwren kwren is offline
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Get a biger wrench!


Seriously I would clamp down on that puppy with some good vise grips and take it off and replace the nut
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Old 11-06-2007, 02:22 PM
Szalkerous Szalkerous is offline
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The nut encompasses the hard brake line, and I have no idea where that line may have a breakpoint where I could get it off. the nut is not to the point where it does not have 6 points of definition. I'm hoping to preserve it as best as possible. Just looking for some well thought advice.
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  #6  
Old 11-06-2007, 06:17 PM
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michael michael is offline
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Like Dave said, lots of PB Blaster. Also since you are replacing the rubber lines a little heat with a prop torch may be a good idea. If it's to the point where you think it's beyond the brake line wrench get a new "quality" vice grip with sharp teeth that will bite in to that nut. I've gotten completely round nuts off that way. Just be patient and don't twist the line, the heat and BP should separate the line from the nut.

Last edited by michael; 11-06-2007 at 06:25 PM.
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Old 11-07-2007, 01:33 PM
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no fire on my SVX

Quote:
Originally Posted by michael View Post
Like Dave said, lots of PB Blaster. Also since you are replacing the rubber lines a little heat with a prop torch may be a good idea. If it's to the point where you think it's beyond the brake line wrench get a new "quality" vice grip with sharp teeth that will bite in to that nut. I've gotten completely round nuts off that way. Just be patient and don't twist the line, the heat and BP should separate the line from the nut.
forget the blaster... a waste of time and your PB blaster
Vice grips will do it easy ....not little ones, but get big enough to do the job! You are going to replace the bolt-nut, whatever it is called, anyway
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Old 11-07-2007, 01:54 PM
NiftySVX NiftySVX is offline
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The threaded nut is one piece with the line. If it becomes damaged, you can either replace the entire line or splice into it and make a new fitting. The latter is the common practice in repair and there are tools made specifically for doing it.
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  #9  
Old 11-07-2007, 07:39 PM
zavikan zavikan is offline
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splicing

This is normal. Bust it out of there, and splice in a new line from a spot that has not rusted.

splicing is easily done, and results in still a professional, quality, job. It DOES require a flaring tool though. and I am not sure if the SVX is bubble or standard flare. Bubble flare requiring an adapter....and then you start having alot of connections at that point...

best of luck!
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  #10  
Old 11-10-2007, 06:56 PM
Szalkerous Szalkerous is offline
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All set. Some PB and the 10mm brake line tool worked perfectly, no splicing.
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